Before you rewire, post a pick of how it's wired now. It SHOULD already be wired as a 4ohm box if it's a mass-produced item. Mfgrs sell stuff standardized and then let us experimenters mess around. 4ohm is the car audio standard.
If you are running 4ohms and the amp is ~300 watts at 4ohms, it should hit quite nicely. Even if it's actually only a 200watt amp at 4ohms it will hit about 4dB louder at max than your old amp.
It takes 2x the power to make just a 3dB gain in volume.
It takes 10x the power to double the volume.
It was wired as a parallel when I took it out of the enclosure. I connected the positive and negative on the speaker with a cable, and then hooked up the remaining cables to their respective positive or negative terminal to run it in a series. Mine was running at 1 ohm straight from factory. These pictures below show how it was originally wired.
Since I have already purchased the Alpine amp, do you think it would be a better idea to run a bridged setup with the amp I already bought, or should I try and get my money back for it and purchase a different amp able to run at 1 ohm load.
You are only going to be able to get only about 1/2 the performance of that sub rather than going to the 1 ohm set up that will give you a little more deeper/ lower sub stage running @ 1 ohm. If you have the room and get a Dual sub enclosure with same sub, you can run 2 Ohms wired correctly and that amp would do very well on both. Id return that amp if you are going to run that single sub. the other amplifiers will give you a little more power options along with options if you decide to swap to a larger RMS sub with power on tap to do so and perform nicely with a tuned enclosure. At this point with that Alpine amplifier... you will need to wire that sub @ 4 ohms to use that amp https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/subwoofer-wiring-diagrams.asp?Q=1&I=22
Running @4 ohms will be a nice SQ type set up..The sub should last a bit longer as well as the amplifier running cooler also tuned and placed correctly to get some air/ ventilation and easy on the stock electrical . Dont expect to hit some serious lows running at 4 ohm but it will be a safe ohm load and provide some daily bass in the vehicle. Make sure you Tune correctly and to your liking
It was wired as a parallel when I took it out of the enclosure. I connected the positive and negative on the speaker with a cable, and then hooked up the remaining cables to their respective positive or negative terminal to run it in a series. Mine was running at 1 ohm straight from factory. These pictures below show how it was originally wired.
I saw that in a review video on youtube of the amp, he must have been giving out false information. I have already purchased the amp so does this mean I must run the amp in series in order for it to be properly compatible with my sub?
U can abuse the amp and run it 1 ohm it makes 850 cert 950 uncert and around 1200 dynamic wattage but if u run it at 1 ohm the 30 amp fuses will blow ull need 40 amp fuses it won't hurt the amp changing the fuses either or u can try 2 35 amp fuses but id just use 40s cause that amp is gonna make huge dynamic power at 1 ohm
