A few novice questions I need help with and setup advice.

JeepBoi

CarAudio.com Newbie
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Roanoke
Hi everyone this is my first post here on the forum. I would just like to say this now that I apologize for any dumb questions I might ask because it is likely there will be a few. That being said, I'll get started. Firstly, I want to ask if you guys think there was a noticeable problem with the old setup I was running.

One singular Rockford Fosgate Punch P2 10 inch subwoofer (2 ohms) 300 RMS.
JBL GT5-A604 4 channel Amplifier

4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 160 watts x 2 chan.

I had been using this amp for about three years or so. Recently, it started repeatedly blowing fuses. I got it checked out and the gentleman at the audio store said it is likely that the amp has just gone bad since it is a pretty old model. Now comes the present. Today I did some research on what amp to buy next. I decided on purchasing the Alpine MRV-M500. The specs on this amp read:
  • 500W RMS x 1 (2Ω, 14.4V, ≤1% THD+N)
  • 300W RMS x 1 (4Ω, 14.4V, ≤1% THD+N)

Do you guys think this would be a suitable amp for my subwoofer? Also my subwoofer says 1 ohm on the side of it, but everywhere online it says that it is 2 ohm. Lastly, did my previous amplifier have any affect or benefit on my factory speakers? And if so would my new amplifier do the same since it is monoblock?
 
Hi everyone this is my first post here on the forum. I would just like to say this now that I apologize for any dumb questions I might ask because it is likely there will be a few. That being said, I'll get started. Firstly, I want to ask if you guys think there was a noticeable problem with the old setup I was running.

One singular Rockford Fosgate Punch P2 10 inch subwoofer (2 ohms) 300 RMS.
JBL GT5-A604 4 channel Amplifier

4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 160 watts x 2 chan.

I had been using this amp for about three years or so. Recently, it started repeatedly blowing fuses. I got it checked out and the gentleman at the audio store said it is likely that the amp has just gone bad since it is a pretty old model. Now comes the present. Today I did some research on what amp to buy next. I decided on purchasing the Alpine MRV-M500. The specs on this amp read:
  • 500W RMS x 1 (2Ω, 14.4V, ≤1% THD+N)
  • 300W RMS x 1 (4Ω, 14.4V, ≤1% THD+N)

Do you guys think this would be a suitable amp for my subwoofer? Also my subwoofer says 1 ohm on the side of it, but everywhere online it says that it is 2 ohm. Lastly, did my previous amplifier have any affect or benefit on my factory speakers? And if so would my new amplifier do the same since it is monoblock?

If that wattage is full sweep and not just at one frequency, that amp should be quite adequate. Mfgrs will quote wattage at a single frequency to legally inflate the numbers.

Looks like the sub is dual voice coil. Perhaps 1 ohm per coil, 2 ohms when run in series? Run them in series to avoid amp kablooey. The way you wired your system may be the cause of amp failure.

The only benefit the previous amp could have on your factory speakers would be if you reduced the amount of bass being fed to them, and the subwoofer stepped in to pick up the difference.
 
If that wattage is full sweep and not just at one frequency, that amp should be quite adequate. Mfgrs will quote wattage at a single frequency to legally inflate the numbers.

Looks like the sub is dual voice coil. Perhaps 1 ohm per coil, 2 ohms when run in series? Run them in series to avoid amp kablooey. The way you wired your system may be the cause of amp failure.

The only benefit the previous amp could have on your factory speakers would be if you reduced the amount of bass being fed to them, and the subwoofer stepped in to pick up the difference.
How can I tell if the wattage is at full sweep rather than just one frequency? Also how would I run them in series? Thank you for your response.
 
Also I would like to include, I purchased the full enclosure back when I bought the sub. It does say it is dual voice coil however on my enclosure there is only one pair of posts as shown below so I am not sure how I would go about wiring them in a series
 

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Actually not is not it is 2 ohm or 4 ohm. And you wire it inside the box on the subwoofer itself.

You posted the specs above and it does not say 1 ohm certified nor does Sonicelectronix or Crutchfield say it is 1 ohm capable.

Direct from their owners manual. So idk where you saw that those are 1 ohm certified.

32115
 
Actually not is not it is 2 ohm or 4 ohm. And you wire it inside the box on the subwoofer itself.

You posted the specs above and it does not say 1 ohm certified nor does Sonicelectronix or Crutchfield say it is 1 ohm capable.

Direct from their owners manual. So idk where you saw that those are 1 ohm certified.

View attachment 32115
I saw that in a review video on youtube of the amp, he must have been giving out false information. I have already purchased the amp so does this mean I must run the amp in series in order for it to be properly compatible with my sub?
 
Yep you will need to run it at 4 ohms then as the 12 volt page shows. Idk where you bought it but return it if you can and swap it out for something that is 1 ohm if you want to. That will give some more power to the subwoofer. At 4 ohms it will still work but I know those P2's can handle a little more then what they claim RMS always better to have more power then needed as by the time you factor in box rise and what not you won't see that 300 watts to the subwoofer.
 
That Alpine amplifier has been an excellent choice for a 2 ohm entry workhorse for a very long time. Its a great amplifier for the money if running at 2 ohms and very reliable.as well over the years. if running at a 1 ohm load with some power on tap /head room, these two choices are very reliable and of which can help you keep the amplifier at its min. load to last longer thus, performing to stay running cool and as well as being able to utilize the extra needs for an upgrade/grades of a more powerful sub/subs to have the power needed. You can run these at a very min. level and overall be very effecient on your stock electrical without the tax burden at the present time. Both these amplifiers Ive had experiences with and both are well worth the money. Orion has a 650.1d that is pretty cheap that is quite reliable and small chases that worked great on a single XFL-10 for my neighbors Pilot.But getting into that price range.. and it may be more beneficial to pick up a Taramps 1200.1d. Ive liked the CT Sounds amp the best out of the 3 for a small budget amplifier, even the 700.1 should be a great amplifier that I may just pick up myself from the experience with the 400.1.

electricalhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0971NG7VH/?tag=caraudiocom-20

https://soundqubed.com/product/s1-850-monoblock-amplifier/
 
How can I tell if the wattage is at full sweep rather than just one frequency? Also how would I run them in series? Thank you for your response.
Alpine doesn’t give that spec with any of their paperwork. Just assume the numbers are inflated. But a class D at that price from a reputable mfgr like Alpine will do just fine.
I have a comparable Rockford driving two 12s and it hits like a sledgehammer with well-recorded music.

The speaker is DVC 2ohms per coil, but probably pre-wired in that box to be a 4ohm setup, as4ohm is the standard for car audio.

Do a bridged setup and enjoy tunes again.
 
That Alpine amplifier has been an excellent choice for a 2 ohm entry workhorse for a very long time. Its a great amplifier for the money if running at 2 ohms and very reliable.as well over the years. if running at a 1 ohm load with some power on tap /head room, these two choices are very reliable and of which can help you keep the amplifier at its min. load to last longer thus, performing to stay running cool and as well as being able to utilize the extra needs for an upgrade/grades of a more powerful sub/subs to have the power needed. You can run these at a very min. level and overall be very effecient on your stock electrical without the tax burden at the present time. Both these amplifiers Ive had experiences with and both are well worth the money. Orion has a 650.1d that is pretty cheap that is quite reliable and small chases that worked great on a single XFL-10 for my neighbors Pilot.But getting into that price range.. and it may be more beneficial to pick up a Taramps 1200.1d. Ive liked the CT Sounds amp the best out of the 3 for a small budget amplifier, even the 700.1 should be a great amplifier that I may just pick up myself from the experience with the 400.1.

electricalhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0971NG7VH/?tag=caraudiocom-20

https://soundqubed.com/product/s1-850-monoblock-amplifier/
Since I have already purchased the Alpine amp, do you think it would be a better idea to run a bridged setup with the amp I already bought, or should I try and get my money back for it and purchase a different amp able to run at 1 ohm load.
 
Alpine doesn’t give that spec with any of their paperwork. Just assume the numbers are inflated. But a class D at that price from a reputable mfgr like Alpine will do just fine.
I have a comparable Rockford driving two 12s and it hits like a sledgehammer with well-recorded music.

The speaker is DVC 2ohms per coil, but probably pre-wired in that box to be a 4ohm setup, as4ohm is the standard for car audio.

Do a bridged setup and enjoy tunes again.
How would I do a bridged setup with a mono amp and only one sub?

Also, I bought the 2 ohm speaker back when I purchased it. So would that mean that my DVC is 1ohm per coil to equal 2 instead of 2 ohm per coil to equal 4?
 
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I think I figured it out. I am going to take the speaker out of the box, and rewire it to a 4 ohm load. The final question I would like to ask, is how much of a performance hit can I expect from this. Does this mean that my sub's wattage will now be as low as 75 RMS since it went from 300 RMS at 1 ohm to now a 4 ohm load? And how much of a difference will I be able to hear in my sub quality.
 
I think I figured it out. I am going to take the speaker out of the box, and rewire it to a 4 ohm load. The final question I would like to ask, is how much of a performance hit can I expect from this. Does this mean that my sub's wattage will now be as low as 75 RMS since it went from 300 RMS at 1 ohm to now a 4 ohm load? And how much of a difference will I be able to hear in my sub quality.
Before you rewire, post a pick of how it's wired now. It SHOULD already be wired as a 4ohm box if it's a mass-produced item. Mfgrs sell stuff standardized and then let us experimenters mess around. 4ohm is the car audio standard.

If you are running 4ohms and the amp is ~300 watts at 4ohms, it should hit quite nicely. Even if it's actually only a 200watt amp at 4ohms it will hit about 4dB louder at max than your old amp.

It takes 2x the power to make just a 3dB gain in volume.
It takes 10x the power to double the volume.
 
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JeepBoi

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