3 way active door setup help

[djdilliodon!]

I'm leaning toward the 2nd option at .32' and I still have a door pocket, pretty good. I'm assuming the box is gonna be 1/4 to 3/8 thick solid fiberglass, with some bracing I think itl do.

if doing a single driver then yes but I’d personally wack right on the line like I said and build the entire bottom half cause it would look better imo. For the depth you gotta pick a driver so you can see the amount of mounting depth you’ll need to achieve.

 

[Bobby.b.]

Update, now that the holidays are over I'm back on it. These little boxes fit easily between the door panel and the door skin with some trimming. The idea is the door panel will sandwich between my outer trim peice and the box itself. It's all 1/4 ply glued and Brad nailed togeather, should be plenty strong with some poly resin and a few layers of heavy cloth. I'm at about .2' as it is. I have measurements for an additional .13' of add on that I can graft in the lower section of the box in the back that will protrude to the outer door skin but I gotta hack up the sheet metal to test fit that. I got a mounting depth of only 2.75" so I'm probly gonna just glue a couple mdf rings to the top panel and make a fiberglass mountain if u know what I mean.

 

[Bobby.b.]

Incriminator I series 8s model good at .32' ported to 45hz the f3 is right at 50hz, and the mounting depth is as good as I can find for a real 8. the challenge then will be where to put the ports cant afford to take up any space inside the box. Any other driver suggestions? All the "shallow" woofers have **** power handling.

 

[djdilliodon!]

Incriminator I series 8s model good at .32' ported to 45hz the f3 is right at 50hz, and the mounting depth is as good as I can find for a real 8. the challenge then will be where to put the ports cant afford to take up any space inside the box. Any other driver suggestions? All the "shallow" woofers have **** power handling.

i don’t know of any 8” off hand with a 2.75” mounting depth that will have solid output in the midbass department. This of course being my definition of solid output of course. This ain’t gonna be easy IMO lol. This might take trial and error, buying some 8‘s and seeing what works and what doesnt. Heck I’d build you some 8’s but the shallowest I make them are 5.85” depth, if I didn’t use the motor to frame spacers they still are a solid 5.5” depth .

 

[Bobby.b.]

Yea if you read the whole thing... I'm gonna stand off the front panel to whatever mounting depth I need, 2.75 is the actual depth of the box not including the faceplate + mdf ring, door panel, fiberglass ect.

 

[Bobby.b.]

https://www.woofersetc.com/p-11102-i8d4-incriminator-audio-8-dual-4-ohm-i-series-subwoofer.html

Little over 4" depth, can make that work easy. Open to ideas if someone knows of a better woofer that's less then 5" deep

 

[Bobby.b.]

Also worth noting, these aren't the "subwoofers" in the system, these are for beefy midbass to move the soundstage forward. I'm running an 18" sub for the low end.

 

[Bobby.b.]

update

 

[djdilliodon!]

Looks good! Have you powered them up yet?

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Btw I cant find any 3 way pre made set ups with bigger then a 6.5, what's the point? I dont need great sound quality I just want to hear a reasonable frequency response range from the front stage, I've never heard a 6.5 that even plays 100hz with any authority, then u gotta pick between making your sub play dirty high to where you can tell its behind you or work your doors down low and then you cant crank em up or the midrange sound like ****, and they dont hit hard anyways. So... small subwoofers up front seem like the solution.

There are plenty of 3-way systems with a woofer larger than 6.5". The woofer diameter is not the only way to get low frequency useful response from a door, but it's a little easier with more cone surface area.

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

I'm confused as to why you wouldn't have just ran Anarchy Mids in the doors. They play down low with some authority, do well in small sealed enclosures, and are proven midbass performers.

And you can get 8" midbass drivers fairly easily. I don't remember any off the top of my head, but I beleive peerless makes a few, and I know Hertz makes the 1800.3 which is 7.5" or so.

The doors look nice, I'm going to do something similar to fit anarchys in the door of my jetta.

Matt

 

[Bobby.b.]

These little 8s with only about .35 ft of air kick like a mule at 60hz and play clean up to a little under 200. I got them crossed over like a brick wall at 40hz with 3 fmods in a row and using the low pass on the amp. the mids are crossed with a set of audiotek 3500hz passives. no rattling doors and I didnt even treat them, I even still keep a bunch of crap in the door pockets and it doesnt rattle around these enclosures are solid.

you wouldnt even know theres a big sloppy cheap ass 18 wangin back there its crossed over at 60 and all the "tight" bass you need is right in front of you.

only thing thats not great is the orion mids could use to go a little lower they dont blend spectacularly at 180ish i dont like to see that much excusion (like any at all) out of a flimsy mid like that. thinking adding a little enclosure behind them will extend the low end enough should be easy.

best of all i put the whole thing togeather for like $500 (already had the amps and wiring).

 

[Bobby.b.]

 

[Bobby.b.]

other mods include extra 24 battery, cheapy head unit with backup camera display, 2 clarion equilizers one for the front one for the sub, extra big bass knob, plenty of stickers for maximum laugh factor that theres a system in the work van lol

 

[djdilliodon!]

You seal up the orions it will add the depth they are missing. Worst case can always swap them if all else fails. This imo is the fun part, the trial and error to see what works and what doesn’t!