3-way active crossover

[mrawesome]

Yeah you got a task for you there- lolLook into this:

http://www.stetsom.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/STX84.pdf

Portuguese. and the stetsom site is too. I didn't read it, and it's not for sale on ebay.

the taramp crosses to many ways, and if the midbass needs to be crossed at 400, the lowest it can do is 550hz, ignoring the midhigh plugs. and it looks like it only has one rca for low and midlow wtf? rca splitters i guess?

 

[mrawesome]

would it help to know a 8-inch shallow mount sub is going to be the mid-bass driver, and the high cut-off will be between 250-1000hz?

 

[Rich B 5,000+ posts]

If it was me I would spend a few $'s more and buy a name brand like this Clarion.....

Clarion MCD360 Car Audio 3 Way Crossover System 6 Channel Line Level Outputs | eBay

 

[AAAAAAA 10+ year member]

I have a PPI EPX-223 3 way xover that will do what you want but without the line driver... I don't see why you need one anyways.

60$ shipped.

 

[mrawesome]

If it was me I would spend a few $'s more and buy a name brand like this Clarion.....
Clarion MCD360 Car Audio 3 Way Crossover System 6 Channel Line Level Outputs | eBay

already been recommended that one, it won't work b/c it doesn't output mid.

I have a PPI EPX-223 3 way xover that will do what you want but without the line driver... I don't see why you need one anyways.

60$ shipped.

can't see pic, but I'm not interested anyway, sorry.

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

Just get A hu that can do it.. these add-ons are a pita to tune vs sitting in the drivers seat and hitting buttons..

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

I agree. Get a CZ702 head unit which is cheap and active capable and call it a day.

Also, kind of related.. but you don't use 8" subwoofers for midbass. You use midbass drivers for midbass, generally in the doors or kick panels.

 

[mrawesome]

I agree. Get a CZ702 head unit which is cheap and active capable and call it a day.
Also, kind of related.. but you don't use 8" subwoofers for midbass. You use midbass drivers for midbass, generally in the doors or kick panels.

the problem with hu with built in crossover like that is that it doesn't have mid output, just front, rear, and sub. the hu I'm upgrading to has that. i understand that there are midbass specific drivers, but it's hard to find one that goes down to 50hz easily. the reason I chose an 8" subwoofer was because I found a pioneer one (TS-SW841D) that goeas down to 30hz, so 50 should be easy, and it goes up to 1500hz, but will probably be bandpassed at around 50-500hz(actual high is undecided for now). It makes more economical sense for me to use a speaker labeled as 'subwoofer' vs one labeled 'misbass driver'. it's only a label. the shallow depth(2.5") can fit in a door I'm pretty sure.

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

the problem with hu with built in crossover like that is that it doesn't have mid output, just front, rear, and sub. the hu I'm upgrading to has that. i understand that there are midbass specific drivers, but it's hard to find one that goes down to 50hz easily. the reason I chose an 8" subwoofer was because I found a pioneer one (TS-SW841D) that goeas down to 30hz, so 50 should be easy, and it goes up to 1500hz, but will probably be bandpassed at around 50-500hz(actual high is undecided for now). It makes more economical sense for me to use a speaker labeled as 'subwoofer' vs one labeled 'misbass driver'. it's only a label. the shallow depth(2.5") can fit in a door I'm pretty sure.

The CZ702 does in fact have bandpass filters for the subs, mids, and highs. I don't know where you're getting that from; I have a CZ702 running a 2 way active front + substage right now. And actually, finding a midbass driver to go down to 50hz is easy... A subwoofer is a subwoofer. A midbass is a midbass. Don't mix the two.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I get that you want to figure this stuff out for yourself, but you're going in a direction that makes things difficult. Getting 50 Hz to play powerfully from doors, even with subwoofers, is not easy to do well. I've tried it with 6.7" subwoofers and it was terrible. They needed so much more power than the tweeters that the midbass I wanted just wasn't there. It's a hell of a lot easier to cross the woofer higher, with a real midbass or midrange and not a subwoofer, and let a larger subwoofer play up another 1/2 octave higher.

Another important point is you're getting into needing a 4-way crossover, or at least running mids and tweeters passively. At that point you need to consider an 8-channel DSP or else change your sytem layout to use fewer speakers.

 

[mrawesome]

The CZ702 does in fact have bandpass filters for the subs, mids, and highs. I don't know where you're getting that from

I saw on the site that it had 3 way, and I assumed(incorrectly) it was front, rear, sub. It didn't specify on the site, sorry about that assumption, I didn't spend enough time looking into it.

And actually, finding a midbass driver to go down to 50hz is easy... A subwoofer is a subwoofer. A midbass is a midbass. Don't mix the two.

i actually have only seen one midbass driver to go down to 50, and that was the lower limit. just wondering, does using a speaker oriented towards sub-bass not work well as midbass if it can play it? I don't see why there would be a problem if what you're asking it to play is within its frequency response. can you explain?

 

[mrawesome]

I get that you want to figure this stuff out for yourself, but you're going in a direction that makes things difficult. Getting 50 Hz to play powerfully from doors, even with subwoofers, is not easy to do well. I've tried it with 6.7" subwoofers and it was terrible. They needed so much more power than the tweeters that the midbass I wanted just wasn't there. It's a hell of a lot easier to cross the woofer higher, with a real midbass or midrange and not a subwoofer, and let a larger subwoofer play up another 1/2 octave higher.
Another important point is you're getting into needing a 4-way crossover, or at least running mids and tweeters passively. At that point you need to consider an 8-channel DSP or else change your sytem layout to use fewer speakers.

I can't cross the sub higher than 50hz, unfourtanately. I want a 'low-end monster' sub, but none of them can play much higher than 50hz. if the doors were to have some kind of sealed enclosure built-in, or the flat subs were not in the doors and placed in a sealed enclosure somewhere else, do you think that would help increase the output to get enough midbass? or maybe the sub was pushed up to 60, and the door mids only played down to 60? or will I just have to face that midbass is only possible with a dedicated driver?

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

I saw on the site that it had 3 way, and I assumed(incorrectly) it was front, rear, sub. It didn't specify on the site, sorry about that assumption, I didn't spend enough time looking into it.
i actually have only seen one midbass driver to go down to 50, and that was the lower limit. just wondering, does using a speaker oriented towards sub-bass not work well as midbass if it can play it? I don't see why there would be a problem if what you're asking it to play is within its frequency response. can you explain?

Most subwoofers won't play very high because of inductance. They may seem to play those frequencies on paper, but in the real world they won't.

 

[mrawesome]

Most subwoofers won't play very high because of inductance. They may seem to play those frequencies on paper, but in the real world they won't.

do you know where to look to find midbass drivers that extend to 50hz?

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

do you know where to look to find midbass drivers that extend to 50hz?

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