2nd battery question

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I have a 2014 Chevy Sonic, and I just upgraded the stereo system with new speakers and a couple of amps I had laying around. I'm not going for any SPL competition, but I like a thumpin bumpin studio sound for my daily drive. This is what I added;

Chevy 7" MYlink stock radio (*****)

Pioneer TS D1730C 6 ¾” Components front

Pioneer TS D1602R 6.5” 2-ways rear

2 Pioneer TSW311D4 12” in a sealed enclosure

Planet Audio AC1800.5 in four channel mode for the front and rear

Crunch DRA 2450.4 in two channel bridged mode for the subs

Soundstream Capcell 400 400amp supporting both amps

I like the way everything sounds so far, but I have worries about the amps drawing to much current from the electrical system. I have done the big 3 upgrade on the alternator but the sub amp runs really hot. I think increasing the resistance from the subs will solve part of the problem but overall I know I need more power (Amperage) my car is still under warrantee so I don't want to replace the alternator yet. I am thinking about adding a battery, but I'm old school so back in the day if you added a battery you also added a battery isolator. The question: Do they still do that? If not does an extra battery cause extra wear on the alternator? Lastly how do you figure out how much battery you need?

No I'm not using 0 gauge wire, I had so many headaches I was lucky to fit 4 guage, but I promise the next round of upgrade will use 100% copper free. Yes I could only afford a bogus wiring kit, sorry.

 
4 gauge CCA cable is pretty sketchy. Really anything you're going to do here is going to tax your alternator. Figure the factory builds new cars with the absolute bare minimum they can get away with to run the factory accessories and when you flat out double that you're going to be working it hard. Add as many batteries as you feel you need to keep your voltage where you want with the playing you do, but the alternator eventually must recharge them. Whether the alternator dumps the current while you're playing or later to recharge the batteries it's still working harder than it would without any add-ons so expect premature failure period.

Nobody uses battery isolators anymore AFAIK. Just parallel up as many as you need to keep your voltage up above 12V and call it a day.

 
make sure ground is really good., no paint under it and it's tight.. yeah u need better wire but.. man those amps are horrible, crunch 1500.1 just tested 320rms.. u need about a rel 1k rms to those subs., i had/have a pioneer 3004 pro rated at 600rms ran a real over 900 to it for over 6 months no problems (ported box) it was pretty loud for sub under $150 ($70).. get some good even 1/0 welding wire for amps and then let us help u find amps that actually do rated power (example we know jbl gtx 500 tested at 800rms).. our guy bigblank has utube dyno channel check it out., u will see what real and whats crap.. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCglLe6GVa1SN1IQ6M8LoGMw forgot the link to wire., the 1/0 is fine for power u have unless u add ho alt, this stuff is better than basic car audio wire by all accounts because it has to meet standards so all mechanic shops and factorys don't burn down https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Cable-Pure-Copper-Power-Wire-1-0-or-2-0-Gauge-AWG-Made-in-USA-SAE-J1127-/302318840814?var=&hash=item46639b6bee:m:mo00vkt4uNr6P4dSHFmiA8A

 
I have a 2014 Chevy Sonic, and I just upgraded the stereo system with new speakers and a couple of amps I had laying around. I'm not going for any SPL competition, but I like a thumpin bumpin studio sound for my daily drive. This is what I added;
Chevy 7" MYlink stock radio (*****)

Pioneer TS D1730C 6 ¾” Components front

Pioneer TS D1602R 6.5” 2-ways rear

2 Pioneer TSW311D4 12” in a sealed enclosure

Planet Audio AC1800.5 in four channel mode for the front and rear

Crunch DRA 2450.4 in two channel bridged mode for the subs

Soundstream Capcell 400 400amp supporting both amps

I like the way everything sounds so far, but I have worries about the amps drawing to much current from the electrical system. I have done the big 3 upgrade on the alternator but the sub amp runs really hot. I think increasing the resistance from the subs will solve part of the problem but overall I know I need more power (Amperage) my car is still under warrantee so I don't want to replace the alternator yet. I am thinking about adding a battery, but I'm old school so back in the day if you added a battery you also added a battery isolator. The question: Do they still do that? If not does an extra battery cause extra wear on the alternator? Lastly how do you figure out how much battery you need?

No I'm not using 0 gauge wire, I had so many headaches I was lucky to fit 4 guage, but I promise the next round of upgrade will use 100% copper free. Yes I could only afford a bogus wiring kit, sorry.
Doesn't seem like that much power to need a 2nd batt. Only if you see bad headlight dimming.

If you do add a 2nd batt, use a relay.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16886_Stinger-SGP32.html

 
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