RoYALbLUE08
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
love this build and love this car....one of my favorite cars ever. nothing can beat that boxer engine growl!
The SPT exhaust made a big difference, not obnoxiously loud though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif.love this build and love this car....one of my favorite cars ever. nothing can beat that boxer engine growl!
Haven't selected tweets yet, getting there soon. Going to mount the tweets and the ES-02's in some kick panels.That door location for the midrange is great. With the driver crossed over correctly the sound radiates in a hemisphere, meaning it sounds the same far off axis as it does directly on axis. Don't stress the mounting angle. What are you using for tweeters and where will you place and aim them?
Put the mids in the doors and put the tweeters in the sail panels if they can fit there. Otherwise the CDT WS-100i imaging tweeters are an excellent choice. Kicks are too easily blocked by legs. You can tune for 1-seat listening with the 80PRS despite the uneven path lengths.Haven't selected tweets yet, getting there soon. Going to mount the tweets and the ES-02's in some kick panels.
Thought about doing mids in the doors but I have a really hard time cutting into them because they cost $600 each to replace, unless I can find used ones. I might just go for it, I think I can manage it without making a huge mistake.Put the mids in the doors and put the tweeters in the sail panels if they can fit there. Otherwise the CDT WS-100i imaging tweeters are an excellent choice. Kicks are too easily blocked by legs. You can tune for 1-seat listening with the 80PRS despite the uneven path lengths.
Sure will, I did some listening hooked up to the pioneer and compared to the completely factory driver side door. Hard to tell at this point because the drivers are not identical but what I did notice is the rattle I had in the passenger door panel is completely gone. Adding the deadener tightened everything up significantly, I did 2 layers in most areas so I believe it's putting some pressure on the panel and eliminating the rattle. I will keep it updated when I can get everything completed and get a better apples to apples comparison done.Report back on how much the deadening helps please. I have a 2013 WRX, and the deadening in this car stock is non existent.
No worries man, post away. You have a similar car so your contribution is cool with me. Yea, let me check out those door panels, post some pictures when you can.I did all my deadening yesterday. I put as much on the inner skin as possible then complete coverage on outer followed up by some foam before putting the pannel back over. I haven't hooked my amp up yet so I still have to turn my volume up to hear the musice. When you close the door you can tell the difference now. I got all 4 doors done and the tire well for the spare. The back well is about 50% coverage. Made a huge difference for road noise. I hope to get the seats out and full coverage on the floor/firewell and roof when my amp kit arrives. For anyone with a WRX/STI it is well worth the money to do it. Panels are really easy to remove too.
I picked up some 28mm tweets and there was no way I could mount in the sail. I ended up putting mine right infront of the door handles. The angle of the panel points them back just enough almost like the sail. I had to use a 2" hole saw and had just enough room to mount between the handle and the air vent. I will post a pic when I get home tonight. If I had read your post before cutting I might not have been so brave but it turned out really well.
Sorry to post all up in your build. We have done more talking through text/pm but started our builds about the same time.
Very nice, I was kicking around the idea of mounting there to because that snake section of the door planner is replaceable. What tweeters did you end up using?View attachment 26547062View attachment 26547063
That's how I ended up mounting my tweeters. For my skill level, I think it turned out nice.