2010 Lincoln MKX Crossovers?

[scarface998]

Good Morning everyone, I have a 2010 Lincoln MKX with the factory THX audio and factory amplifier. My front doors are factory component speakers and I am replacing them with Morel Tempo Ultra 572 component speakers. In the door, there are no factory crossovers, but I do believe that the amp is all amplifying individual speakers which would make them actively crossed over right? If thats the case, do i need to install the aftermarket crossovers from morel tempo? If i do install the crossovers, how should i wire them if ive got two sets of wires from the amplifier? Should i just wire the tweeter wires into the crossover and leave the woofers connected directly into the amp? I do know that the woofers do not have full range and neither do the tweeters because my factory woofer is blown but I still get all the high range from the tweeter and I can hear the difference on the non blown speaker. I don't know what the factory crossover is but Morel specs the crossovers with WF: 3200Hz 6dB TW: 3200Hz 6dB (±2dB). Do we just not connect the crossover?

What do you guys think I should do in this situation?

Thanks!

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[Deiimos]

Do you know for a fact the OEM woofer is not getting a full range signal? Did you test the output to see if it is low passed? In the first post you seemed unsure if it was active, or if it was a full range signal, after editing it seems you think the OEM woofer and tweeter are both crossed. A lone woofer may not produce a lot of high / tweeter frequency, so just an ear test on the working side woofer may not be enough to say for certain if it is crossed or not; it's not going to sound like the tweeter even with a full range signal. I'm not saying you're wrong, just trying to make sure.

To test it, I would remove the door panel, remove the OEM woofer, then connect a 2-way speaker I have laying around to the woofer wires and see if it is full range or not, to take out any guessing and fairly quick to do. I would do this on the side with the blown woofer, to make sure it is not an OEM amp or wire problem, so rules that out too. This way I know for sure, and don't have to guess based on online searching.

If it were me, I would not spend that kind of money on a set of Morel's, just to use an OEM amp, with a crossover point / slope that likely isn't correct for the Morel drivers. I'd for sure install an amp, passive or active doesn't really matter to me, but it would get an amp, probably just using the Morel passive setup to make it easier.

Lastly.
If the OEM woofer is getting a full range signal, you can simply wire the Morel crossover up there, and then connect the Morel drivers to the crossover, and it will work properly. Don't hook up the OEM tweeter wiring to anything.

If the OEM system is active for both drivers, you could technically just install the new woofer / tweeter in place of the OEM, but again, crossover is not likely to be correct? but should technically "work", just maybe not perform as well as it should. If it is full active, you can not use the Morel crossover, as it needs a full ranger signal to split the frequencies properly.

Welcome to the forum, hope you get it figured out. The forums are a little dead compared to years ago, but hopefully someone can help, still some knowledgeable people around here.

 

[scarface998]

Do you know for a fact the OEM woofer is not getting a full range signal? Did you test the output to see if it is low passed? In the first post you seemed unsure if it was active, or if it was a full range signal, after editing it seems you think the OEM woofer and tweeter are both crossed. A lone woofer may not produce a lot of high / tweeter frequency, so just an ear test on the working side woofer may not be enough to say for certain if it is crossed or not; it's not going to sound like the tweeter even with a full range signal. I'm not saying you're wrong, just trying to make sure.

To test it, I would remove the door panel, remove the OEM woofer, then connect a 2-way speaker I have laying around to the woofer wires and see if it is full range or not, to take out any guessing and fairly quick to do. I would do this on the side with the blown woofer, to make sure it is not an OEM amp or wire problem, so rules that out too. This way I know for sure, and don't have to guess based on online searching.

If it were me, I would not spend that kind of money on a set of Morel's, just to use an OEM amp, with a crossover point / slope that likely isn't correct for the Morel drivers. I'd for sure install an amp, passive or active doesn't really matter to me, but it would get an amp, probably just using the Morel passive setup to make it easier.

Lastly.
If the OEM woofer is getting a full range signal, you can simply wire the Morel crossover up there, and then connect the Morel drivers to the crossover, and it will work properly. Don't hook up the OEM tweeter wiring to anything.

If the OEM system is active for both drivers, you could technically just install the new woofer / tweeter in place of the OEM, but again, crossover is not likely to be correct? but should technically "work", just maybe not perform as well as it should. If it is full active, you can not use the Morel crossover, as it needs a full ranger signal to split the frequencies properly.

Welcome to the forum, hope you get it figured out. The forums are a little dead compared to years ago, but hopefully someone can help, still some knowledgeable people around here.

Hey thanks for the help!

I would generally agree that having an aftermarket amp is a good idea when using aftermarket speakers and if i had a bigger budget and plenty of time I would 100 percent do that. However thats not my goal for this vehicle. The only reason im really changing anything is because the door woofer is blown. The lincoln is just a family vehicle, and I got a really really good deal on the morels. As far as I can tell the woofer and tweeter are definitely crossed over in some fashion. Like i said the morels crossover at 3200 HZ so i was thinking of getting in the car and just running test tones until I find the crossover points. If they are decently close I was thinking of just running the speakers without the morel crossover. I know for a fact that the factory amp is 4 OHM so i know the speakers are gonna be fine. Do you think thatd be okay???

 

[Deiimos]

If you find that the factory amp has active crossovers for both drivers, same impedance, then it should work for a quick speaker swap. The main concern is being certain the tweeter is actively crossed, which should be easy enough.

 

[scarface998]

If you find that the factory amp has active crossovers for both drivers, same impedance, then it should work for a quick speaker swap. The main concern is being certain the tweeter is actively crossed, which should be easy enough.

So I did a tone test and found that the tweeters start making sound at about 1500hz which would put the crossover several thousand hertz above that. So I’m gonna say that the active crossover is working pretty well. I think I’m gonna throw the components in with the factory wiring and crossover and see how it sounds. I appreciate your help!