2006 stereo upgrade questions?

[Booger68]

Absolutely. I can relate as I do quite a bit of amp,speaker,and HU swapping in one of my 98 xcab/3dr Chevy trucks. Ive been in this Hobby since the early 80s if that tells you my age. LOL. But.. I am still learning , especially with all this new Digital world. I like to keep things as simplistic as possible if I can lol. That CT Sounds amp will be excellent for your 4 ch amp needs.Perfec

Absolutely. I can relate as I do quite a bit of amp,speaker,and HU swapping in one of my 98 xcab/3dr Chevy trucks. Ive been in this Hobby since the early 80s if that tells you my age. LOL. But.. I am still learning , especially with all this new Digital world. I like to keep things as simplistic as possible if I can lol. That CT Sounds amp will be excellent for your 4 ch amp needs.Perfect

Yeah probably going to start ordering parts tomorrow or tonight. That way it will all be here on my 2 weeks off (In about a week). But gotta get through hell week next week.

Booger

 

[Booger68]

IMO, always get separate amps for the front stage vs subs. Even if you have the subs already, and you find an amp that miraculously works perfect, what if the amp goes bad, or you want to upgrade the fronts, or get a larger sub. Now that amp doesn't work at all.

Generally I find 5 and 6ch amps to cost just as much as two amps.

A front stage amp is for your mids and highs. You want it as clear as you can get it, with as little distortion/thd as possible. With subs, you're just not going to notice that clarity. You're paying a lot to have a really clear amp for only the ~20-150hz signal. You're NEVER going to hear the difference between .01% and .5% THD when the bass hits.

Even worse, if you buy a 6ch amp now, you are stuck with whatever wattage it has for subs. Wait until you figure out how much room you have physically, and in your electrical. Get subs that fit and it will be incredibly easy to find an amp that will play them.

IMO, buy an alternator that is sized for as big as you might want to go. Just get a 4ch amp for the mids and highs, (and I'm really kind of amazed that those big old boat tower speakers fit unless you pulled em out of that mount). Run the 1/0 to the back and a distribution block to between where the amps will go, and when you add an amp, you only need to run power from the dist block. Saves you time, and money.

Yeah they did fit I zip tied them to the roof across the back. Hopefully I wont need an alternator but I'll cross that creek when I get to it.
I've got a plan now so just time to put it into play.

Booger

 

[huberoy123 10+ year member]

Forgot to ask would I need 1/0 wire from the battery to the trunk for 2 amps to be ready when I do the sub later on?

Booger

I have 4 ga. From the battery to the trunk disribuion block, and 8 ga from the block to 3 amps and accessory fans. Works fine for me.

 

[Booger68]

 

[Booger68]

Do ya'll think I will pick up any noise being so close to these wires?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Do ya'll think I will pick up any noise being so close to these wires?

Not at all man. That supply wire is well insulated and you should be just fine. make sure you do a cleaned off surface to bare metal when you do a solid ground and you should be just fine man. You should be able to run your RCAs just under the carpet about 4-6" along the same path if you want to run down the same side. even the Remote wire. You can zip tie that to the RCAs and you shouldnt have any issues as well. keep on trucking man. Looks good! Take your time.Never rush things. Wiring is always time consuming. you will get there

 

[Booger68]

Yup it's still warm and humid here in kentucky today. I have that hidden. Now waiting on grounding blocks an trunk fuses. Fixing to mess with the under the hood fuse in a bit.

Booger

 

[Booger68]

Do ya'll think this would work for my ground block?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Do ya'll think this would work for my ground block?
View attachment 53070

Whats on the backside of that? What does that bolt go to?

 

[Booger68]

Thats in the trunk on the drivers side. Its either a bolted through or welded to the inside of the trunk.
Booger

 

[Booger68]

Just got home. I got another ppparcel.

 

[Booger68]

Made a little progress today.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Just got home. I got another ppparcel.

View attachment 53086

All my Stinger and Xscorpian products have always served my needs without any issues when others have failed,even name branded well known products. Good Stuff Man!!

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Made a little progress today.
View attachment 53143

View attachment 53144

I would recommend placing 4-5 washers under each bolt hole on that amplifier to get it off the surface to get some air circulation, or if you still have enough of that wood you used to make a couple of like 2" strips to raise the amp up off the surface will deff. help get some air circulation under that amplifier and dissipate heat. Xscorpian also makes a couple of scroll fans(6" and 8" ) that I like to use to blow under to move some air. Easy to wire up. Poss to the Remote line on the amplifier and negative to negative. fan will turn on when amp turns on and turn off when you turn system off. Ive never had any electrical noise issues wiring to a sub amplifier. They are about $25 bucks, may find a decent deal by searching on them. You will and can hear the fan while at idle/no music usually inside the cabin space, but quite unnoticeable in trunk space and when most music is playing

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Made a little progress today.
View attachment 53143

View attachment 53144

Thats one big azz 4ch amp man.. Love it man!! Nice!!( I still have some Old School Monsters that size left,and still sound very nice). Sometimes you just need to sacrifice the space for what you want and need and what you are willing to give up man. Being realistic and practical deff. saves a headache and a lot of Slurring man. LOL. Ill give up just about any space to put what I want in any of my rides. Looks like almost the same size as my Elemental designs Nine-5.