2004 Honda Pilot build - 4 12's, 12k watts

Went ahead and threw all the subs in the box and just left the one f'd up coil disconnected so I could at least hear the setup on low power. Did some testing at 1 - 1.5k watts with the termlab.

Peaks at 31hz with all the ports open (tuned at 38hz) and peaks at 28hz with one port plugged (tuned at 32hz).

At 26hz, on 1500 watts, it's trying to rip the front doors off. Haha.

I'm in love with how the looks of it turned out. Couldn't be happier.

 

---------- Post added at 01:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:13 PM ----------

 



 
Couple pics of my door panels from the guy doing them. Still a lot of glass work to do to them. Hope to have them by the end of this week, but realistically expecting them sometime next week.

Alternator should finally be here Monday or Tuesday. Recones will hopefully be here by Friday.

Dying to get this thing finished up!





 
It's three 6 inch ports. As it is now, it's tuned to 38 hz with all 3 open, and 32 hz with 1 plugged.

This vehicle peaks loooow. With all 3 ports open, it's peaking at 31hz. With one plugged, it's peaking at 28 hz. That's testing at low power (1k watts), but I don't expect it to change drastically at full tilt.

 
Deadened the roof and hatch. Doors next. Eventually will do the rear quarters and floor, but that's gonna wait for a little bit I think.
About 30 sq feet in the roof and hatch. Probably not enough, but again, it'll have to do for now.



you are a smart man..

 
MIGHT try to solder the tinsels back together just so I can try some low power testing with it. Regardless, it'll get reconed soon.
The broke tinsel would explain why I couldn't ever get a 150 out of my Civic after the Sundown Audio show.
Little late to the party here, but you probably could have replaced the tinsel. You really can't band-aid them back together but depending on the sub you can just replace it; solder onto the terminal/direct lead then poke it up through the cone and scrape/dissolve/melt away enough glue to get to the coil lead.

 
Little late to the party here, but you probably could have replaced the tinsel. You really can't band-aid them back together but depending on the sub you can just replace it; solder onto the terminal/direct lead then poke it up through the cone and scrape/dissolve/melt away enough glue to get to the coil lead.
Didn't think about replacing it altogether. Regardless, I didn't even bother trying to patch it. Not enough room to get a soldering iron to it. And I'm kind of waiting on other things anyway (door panels and alt), so waiting a little longer for recones isn't a big deal. Wanted to start with 4 fresh woofers anyway, but couldn't afford it. Blown sub made me afford it. hahah

 
Didn't think about replacing it altogether. Regardless, I didn't even bother trying to patch it. Not enough room to get a soldering iron to it. And I'm kind of waiting on other things anyway (door panels and alt), so waiting a little longer for recones isn't a big deal. Wanted to start with 4 fresh woofers anyway, but couldn't afford it. Blown sub made me afford it. hahah
Not like solder would hold in the moving part of a tinsel anyway, but yeah you could never get in there, that's why you snip it out and bypass it with a fresh piece.

I don't know how poor those DC softparts are otherwise, but I didn't notice any difference on the meter swapping fresh subs in with 2 year old ones this year when a couple of mine needed replacing. Typically the most dramatic softening of the suspension happens very quickly and from there with most of the modern high power stuff the softening is very gradual.

Box looks fantastic by the way.

 
My experience with the XL woofers is I gain about .1 to .2 on the meter after they've had a few hours of play time on them. That was when I ran 2 of them in the trunk of the Civic.

The blown tinsel sub...the other coil tinsels have came partially unstitched from the spider. The other used sub has one tinsel on one sub coming unstitched from the spider. If it weren't for that, I wouldn't worry too much about them. However, they definitely have some wear on them. Running port forward in the Civic, they had been "unloaded" several times (opening a door full tilt would make them unload), and bottomed out a couple times. Clipped them HARD several times on the meter in testing. They were well used and abused.

As I said on the Civic build thread, this was my first year competing. So I learned a few things the hard way (those two 12's got the brunt of it) in the chase for db's. They held up good for half a season (ran a single XL 15 prior to these, and a single Level 4 15 prior to that), so I've got no complaints.

On the box....thanks. I wish I could take credit for building it, but all I did was add the stain. I love how the looks of it came out.

 
Not much progress yet. Farked up my back over the weekend and didn't get as much done as I'd hoped. Also, everything I'm waiting on is taking longer to get than expected.

Recones should be here tomorrow. Door panels should be here this Friday.

Also, wife have me a early bday present...



This is much needed. Rear of the pilot squats about 4 inches and is sitting on the bump stops. This should take care of that.

 
Reconed the subs and have pretty much everything done except the door panels...which are delayed again, but that's the least of my issues now.

Metered it today. There still some power left, but that is irrelevent. This thing is such a freaking disappointment. I need to gain 5 db outlaw to be a winner at shows, and at least 3 to be even a little competitive.

My civic did numbers very close to this clamping 1/3 the power with half the cone area.

Sealed score



Outlaw score



 
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