2000 Camry Build

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[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

Loud is loud, that is all. I'm not a fan of PA/pro style drivers that hit those 90db+ numbers

Cdt ain't pa drivers

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Cdt ain't pa drivers

HCCA122 True, I forgot that he was looking at those initially as well. Also wasn't sure of the amplification either. Long thread! CTD prolly one of the more efficient drivers available that don't take you to the cleaners, sound good too. The comps start getting a little more than I think the OP wants to shell out.

If the two ohm versions are compatblewith the amp and budget, they would be a louder option. I think the issue is the cost.

Although, there are a pair of the HD-690CFX Coaxial 6x9s in the refurb bin for $119 and a pair of the these up front would only be around $60 more than the Pio comps.

CDT Audio ES-610X

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

OK, so far as mounting 6x9s in the rear deck is concerned, to keep the subs from blowing them out how can they be segregated from the trunk air space effectively? Is there an enclosure that can be purchased or would it have to be custom built? Should this even be considered?

To note: my rear seat folds down all the way so leaving the holes open isn't an issue.

There are a lot of prefab boxes on the market and various ways to isolate them from the subs. The usual issue is the depth of the box. Part of my issues with running them in the package tray is that the reason for getting them in the first place is to increase cone area. Putting them in little boxes or building enclosures behind them means they'll likely cross at a fairly high frequency and there goes the midbass extension you were hoping to gain. Just my 2 cents. That's why in a car with a large, 3000 watt sub setup, I'd skip the rears or the rear deck anyway and use the rear doors for fill.

 

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[djdilliodon!]

So as far as budget goes, I already know what subs and amp I'll be getting and am on the fence with wiring. But for front speakers, I can go about $150 a set. I have decided not to put anything in the rear deck as advised and will use the rear doors as fill, as advised. I'm looking hard at the pioneer set on ebay. They are 'display' units and come with original box and mfg warranty as stated by the seller. However, I need to be sure they will have good clear audio presence. I want to feel like I am right there as they are playing the music. I don't know if it's possible to mix a bass system with one that has SQ but I'd like to try.

So after tomorrow when I visit the local shop and see what they have to offer I'll hopefully be more educated and able to make a better decision.

Thanks for all your help guys!

Remember something, the way speakers sound is purely subjective. Everyone has their own tastes. When it comes to staging, how the speakers just fill the car with the sound and it’s like you don’t know where it’s coming from, that is all in the install! This is one reason why I asked if sealed door pods are an option, IB in the door you are limited. Door pods or kicks etc opens up the door to getting things more perfect.

 

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[djdilliodon!]

I see now. Good point. I will give more serious thought into the pods option. I'm not really good with modifying stuff like the door panels. However, I do like making stuff. I wonder if possibly making a foam template then coating it with release and a couple layers of fiberglass would be good enough? Doesn't have to be very big. And I could incorporate a plywood ring for the mounting screws to hold the speakers in place. My mind is excited now, thanks!

When I say pods, really what I mean is either making sealed enclosures and attaching them to the door panel (like the baffle stacks I showed from gpcaraudio) or fiberglassing enclosures on the door panels. The baffle stacks from gpcaraudio are cost affective and easy to install. You can bolt them directly onto the door panel or trace them onto the panel, cut it out cleanly, mount them to the metal of the door, and put the door panels on and they go over it and baffle sticks go through them.

Those pods you linked from Amazon are junk. They are open in the back (not sealed). If you must have rear fill, I’d use the rear doors. If it was my car, I’d rather put the money I’d spend on the rear speakers towards the front and either do a 3 way component set or dual 6.5” midbass drivers with a single or dual tweeters.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Loud is loud, that is all. I'm not a fan of PA/pro style drivers that hit those 90db+ numbers. In the price range that I think you are considering, you get one or the other very few even moderately priced speakers give you efficiency, large bandwidth and high power capability. One of the only drivers that really do loud that is reasonable, that I'm familiar with is the Stevens drivers, very loud, very good sound too. Generally speaking, at 9db more, the ear perceives a doubling of the volume. In order to get a 9db gain through amplification, you need to go from 100 x 4 watts to 800 watts x4 to realise a 9db increase. Each time you double the output of the amplifiers power. it nets you 3db. Knowing this, high efficiency drivers are usually not able to handle the same power at the same frequencies as wider-band drivers, it's all a tradeoff. let's assume that you are going to get a 4x125 watt amplifier. If you are going to get a set of speakers you think you are going to like, and it comes in both 2 ohm and 4 ohm variants (and the amplifier is 2 ohm stable), great, but not the deciding factor in getting that particualr set, IMHO.

I read this somewhere recently too. It just doesn't make sense though. The math doesn't add up.

In general, it would mean that every speaker does the same volume at the same wattage, and that every speaker goes up the same amount. SPL wouldn't even matter, it would be the same thing for everyone, every time at the same wattage. It would have to mean 2k watts, is a set db, (for everyone). Without even going up, just go down with it. Eventually you're going to get sub 5watts, and how many db?

This theory might work for a specific range, and a specific type of speaker, but it certainly doesn't work all the time.

What's powering the speaker is AC voltage. It's the square root of wattage. When you send more power in, you only get the square root out.
For speaker power; You aren't doubling wattage to get more decibel out, You're adding more power in and only getting the square root more.
sq rt of 1,000 is 31vAC
sq rt of 2,000 is 44vAC
That's what is not linear. That is what creates a curve, that would look similar to what this theory is claiming, where it's climbing higher, and going out less and less.

 

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Nice, good luck and enjoy!

 

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