2000 Camry Build

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[spokey9]

Cdt is doing 50% off and they make nice gear

CDT Audio High End Car Audio

 

[bigone5500 10+ year member]

Cdt is doing 50% off and they make nice gear

CDT Audio High End Car Audio

Will they last long? Physically that is. Never heard of this brand. But I am intrigued by the pricing right now. Need to hurry though.

 

[spokey9]

I've been hard on the used set of hd's I bought with no issues...I'm running cdt components up front and coaxes in the rear

 

[djdilliodon!]

Will they last long? Physically that is. Never heard of this brand. But I am intrigued by the pricing right now. Need to hurry though.

CDT has been around for well over 20 years now. The owner of cdt audio designed speakers for others before starting the company. He had affiliations with vifa and scanspeak which is understandable as they are all from Sweden (including Ken the owner of cdt). Most of the speakers are built in the USA and some in Denmark. Their warranty is one part I’ve always been impressed with. I was a dealer for their products for around 6 years and I use to handle warranties directly in many cases. They NEVER refused to warranty a product and it was very rare to see something fail. The few failures I’ve seen was due to running way over rated power.

 

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The 65s/20.2 has a .75" tweeter which will have a wider dispersion pattern but they are also rated to take less power. the CDT Audio HD-65S/26.2 can handle more power and the difference in the dome dispersion pattern is not all the significant at all considering how close one is to the tweeter. Go with the 26.2 IMHO. Keep in mind that the RMS rating is at above 110Hz, most 100 watt RMS rated speakers will take a lot more power with a x-over point that high. Compare efficiency ratings, that is going to be a better spec to factor in.

These pioneers crossed over at 110hz will most likely match the output of the CTD's, so would many others. I like the CTDs but I'm not fan of ratings that stipulate you have to cross them at 110hz to attain that rating.

Pioneer TS-Z65C 6.5" Component Speaker System 300 Watts Max RB | eBay

1-1/8" aluminum tweeter. 6-1/2" Twaron fiber woofer with butyl rubber surround. Tweeter Composition Aluminum. Woofer Composition Twaron. Woofer Surround ---. handles up to 100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power).

www.ebay.com

 

[spokey9]

Im running the CDT Audio HD-65S/20.2 set off a crescendo s6 (170 rms @ 2 ohm) and I think it sounds great...I would've probably gotten the bigger tweet though just because if I bought new

These pioneers crossed over at 110hz will most likely match the output of the CTD's

There's a big enough difference in sensitivity that on the same power the cdt would have more output plus you can cross the cdt lower to match pioneers 100w rms. And with a midrange you should be crossing about double fs anyways...

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Im running the CDT Audio HD-65S/20.2 set off a crescendo s6 (170 rms @ 2 ohm) and I think it sounds great...I would've probably gotten the bigger tweet though just because if I bought new

There's a big enough difference in sensitivity that on the same power the cdt would have more output plus you can cross the cdt lower to match pioneers 100w rms. And with a midrange you should be crossing about double fs anyways...

Thus using the efficiency as the better barometer...

 

[djdilliodon!]

Which one of these sets would sound the best? Also, it seems to me a no-brainer to get the extended warranty for $10 more.

CDT Audio HD-65S/20.2

CDT Audio HD-65S/26.2

If you are willing to do custom door pods, there is no reason to even look at shallow mount sets. You can use a set of these mounted to the door panel and it opens up the options endlessly. https://gpcaraudio.com/6-5-super-tweeter-flush-mount-stack-fab-door-pods-customized/

You can tell them the cutout size for tweeter and midbass and they will make them exactly to size. For a solid 2 way setup that won’t break the bank https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/sets/wideband/wb-systems/wideband1b.php

The cats meow would be to call cdt audio and ask to speak with Ken. Tell him you know Don smith and that he recommended the following setup for your vehicle:

1 pair mx-1000sx Xovers

1 pair HD-6KCV midbass drivers

1 pair Unity 7.5 wide drivers

He will give you an excellent price! This goes for anyone, if you mention my name, he will give you a great deal on custom put together sets. This setup above run in sealed pods would sound fantastic.

 

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The CTDs are great component speakers. The amplifiers ability to work under a 2 ohm load will determine if you get 2 ohm or 4 ohm speakers. Generally, 4 channel amplifiers that are stable at 2 ohms are preferred and necessary if you intend to purchase 2 ohm speakers. The ohms thing is significant and usually discussed regarding the subwoofers wiring configuration due to the use of multiple subs and multiple voice coils wired together in a way that either increases or decreases the ohm rating and while applicable, not so much in the doors as discussed here as multiples are not in the equation. With a 2ohm capable amp, you wire them up like 4 ohm speakers, the load is predetermined in this case, by the sets you are looking at, and they are made with a 2 ohm rating. This allows you to extract the most from an amplifier rated to accommodate a 2 ohm load. Even though these are two-way speakers, the ohm rating is not impacted by using a midbass and a tweeter together like they do when dual voice coils or multiple subs are wired together. In a sub setup, the same frequencies are sent to both and no dividing network (x-over network) is there to alter the frequencies and all the subs wired together get full load each. In a two way setup, the crossover changes the workload by distributing certain frequencies to the 6.5” midbass drivers and the 1” tweeters, keeping the overall load the same, it spreads the load across the two which allows the amp to see it as one load, not a lower load or a high load as is the case with subs. Crossover points are the in-between pints where the subs, the midbass drivers and the tweeters all stop and start. In this 3-way example, the crossover points are are 120 Hz and 2000. There is a lot more to this, need a few hundred pages and a few years to really get into the nitty gritty.

If you have the room to use standard depth car audio speakers like any of the CDTs or others you've seen here, then that is what I would recommend you get. The slim design speakers are a compromise in my opinoin, get the other CTDs if you want to take advantage of the sale and can use either one. The ones that you reference all come with their own crossovers and the only other settings you will need to tinker with are the high pass filters on the amplifier and we can all assist with the 4 channel amplifier selection once you have the speakers and the end game and the need is established.

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

I have a set of CDT's from 2012, maybe earlier. Still sound great. They're currently running off a taramps ts400x4 bridged for 150/ speaker.

Someone above said they don't like the RMS rated at a specific hz. I'm the opposite. I like that I can set the gains and adjust the crossover point and know that I'm within the limits of the speaker. As opposed to having a lower crossover point and hearing that 1 song where the midbass distorts because your crossed just a little too low and didn't realize it.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I have a set of CDT's from 2012, maybe earlier. Still sound great. They're currently running off a taramps ts400x4 bridged for 150/ speaker.

Someone above said they don't like the RMS rated at a specific hz. I'm the opposite. I like that I can set the gains and adjust the crossover point and know that I'm within the limits of the speaker. As opposed to having a lower crossover point and hearing that 1 song where the midbass distorts because your crossed just a little too low and didn't realize it.

Actually, it wasn't that I said I didn't like that statistic, I said I don't like going by the RMS ratings when they use a rather high frequency point baseline for the stat like 110Hz but at the same time provide that the drivers range is much lower (55hz and up for these drivers) AND likely to be crossed closer near the 70-80 Hz crossover point likely in this build.

It's conflates the real RMS that most are going to utilize that size driver for. I's a bit of a catch 22 as it is a relevant crossover point, but kind of deceptive for what the use most likely will be in this case and if one doesn't know why that is relevant, affects the outcome. Just a personal pet peeve, not a critique of the driver's ability.

Since the OP has stated they are not that savvy regarding x-overs, etc., Trying to educate the meaning of the stats relative to the OP's stated end goal for the build. The is a lot of program material in that 80-110 Hz range that will need to be picked up by these midbass drivers given that his sub is going to be in a trunk.