2000 Camry Build

Actually, it wasn't that I said I didn't like that statistic, I said I don't like going by the RMS ratings when they use a rather high frequency point baseline for the stat like 110Hz but at the same time provide that the drivers range is much lower (55hz and up for these drivers) AND likely to be crossed closer near the 70-80 Hz crossover point likely in this build.

It's conflates the real RMS that most are going to utilize that size driver for. I's a bit of a catch 22 as it is a relevant crossover point, but kind of deceptive for what the use most likely will be in this case and if one doesn't know why that is relevant, affects the outcome. Just a personal pet peeve, not a critique of the driver's ability.

Since the OP has stated they are not that savvy regarding x-overs, etc., Trying to educate the meaning of the stats relative to the OP's stated end goal for the build. The is a lot of program material in that 80-110 Hz range that will need to be picked up by these midbass drivers given that his sub is going to be in a trunk.

;)

There is actually a standard for power handling testing of component sets and midbass drivers. Usually one of the following is used 60Hz at 24dB/Octave, 80Hz at 18dB/Octave, or 100Hz at 12dB/Octave all high pass. Low bass frequencies don’t really “blow” midbass drivers. Higher bass notes tend to create more heat as cone travel is more limited preventing the cooling affect the cone has while moving. What lower bass frequencies can do is when running drivers free air, they can reach or exceed mechanical limits more easily compared to thermally. Having the coil have a full make out session with the back plate of the motor is never a good thing🤣. I’ve given up on IB setups long ago after experiencing sealed. It just sounds way better to me overall.
 
So I think I'll be going with the cdt speakers. I mean, it's just money... LOL nevermind. The sale is gone. I could have sworn it said till Dec 4th. Oh well. Back to researching.
 
Last edited:
Check DIYMA for a used one. Lots of amplifiers w/ dsp's come up for sale. There is a few out there that are good in the price range of 300-600 w/ amplifier built in. Depends on your budget is all.
 
Is there a cheaper alternative to the audio control DSP that isn't just junk?
Yeah, good luck getting a deal on something new. About $400 seems to be about what I see that you pay for it to have DSP.

Here's a place I always check, when I'm looking for gear:

 
Not many that have any output comparatively. This Kenwood is decent at 75x6, $329


  • 6-channel car amplifier with digital signal processing
    -75 watts RMS x 6 at 4 ohms
    -100 watts RMS x 6 at 2 ohms

    -200 watts RMS x 3 bridged at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
  • CTA-2006 compliant
  • Class D amp technology
  • iDatalink Maestro AR amplifier replacement module included
  • 10-channel 32-bit 192 KHz digital processor
  • All controls and adjustments made via Kenwood DSP Control App via your compatible Bluetooth device
  • Selectable high- and low-pass filters (31-19,900 Hz) with selectable slopes (6, 12, 18, 24 dB/octave)
  • 13-band graphic and 3-band parametric equalizers
  • Time delay/alignment
  • Installer Mode accesses all controls
  • User Mode limits functions to selecting EQ and time-alignment presets and subwoofer volume
  • 4 processed preamp outputs
  • Fan cooling
  • Fuse rating: 40A x 2
  • Dimensions: 12-5/8"W x 2-1/16"H x 7-1/8"D
 
Last edited:
Just search for DIYMA for some reason the site no longer allows a direct link to places like that. Biggest and most active car audio forum out there. Tons of activity and people sell stuff constantly on there.

 
Last edited:
Loud is loud, that is all. I'm not a fan of PA/pro style drivers that hit those 90db+ numbers. In the price range that I think you are considering, you get one or the other very few even moderately priced speakers give you efficiency, large bandwidth and high power capability. One of the only drivers that really do loud that is reasonable, that I'm familiar with is the Stevens drivers, very loud, very good sound too. Generally speaking, at 9db more, the ear perceives a doubling of the volume. In order to get a 9db gain through amplification, you need to go from 100 x 4 watts to 800 watts x4 to realise a 9db increase. Each time you double the output of the amplifiers power. it nets you 3db. Knowing this, high efficiency drivers are usually not able to handle the same power at the same frequencies as wider-band drivers, it's all a tradeoff. let's assume that you are going to get a 4x125 watt amplifier. If you are going to get a set of speakers you think you are going to like, and it comes in both 2 ohm and 4 ohm variants (and the amplifier is 2 ohm stable), great, but not the deciding factor in getting that particualr set, IMHO.
 
Last edited:
I like the alloy dome of the Hi res Pios, I run the ZCHs up front (w/a Kappa 2" dome mid for a 3-way) and the TS-Z65F's in the rear active/passive. Front stage is fully active, had to use an active/passive combo in the back, as I only had 8 channels of amplification for the comps. You could run the ZC's front and back active/passive on a 4 channel amp and at $99 a set, pretty hard to beat. All four 6.5s get 150 watts off my Focal FDP 4.600, the 2" mids get 65 watts and the front tweeters get 50 watts off my AudioControl ACM 4.300. It's plenty loud. I've used the Dayton 408 in m home theater to organizer and tune 5 subs, it works great (with a little help from my friend who is a wiz at REW, I'm still learning how to evaluate and predict). Had to learn the dayton GUI, it seems pretty intuitive. That's still a work in progress for sure. Did you ever state which 4 channel amplifier you're looking into? This recoil looks to be decent enough and is pretty powerful too 125 x 4:


If you get two of those recoil amps, you cold go almost fully active with the Dayton DSP. You would have full active front and back with two sets of the Pio comps, 4 channels in, 8 out for the front and rears.

Lots of options.
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

Twist both grounds together. Good call on checking power with a multimeter. I assume you have pulled out and re-inserted the fuses, so as a quick...
1
702
I only have experience with ct sounds. I have the ct80.4 and the ct1500.1 in my sons camaro he is playing them everyday I had the 80.4AB go bad...
1
3K
The last piece and the system is a wrap, RUX-H02 remote volume/sub knob because we are old and buttons **** IMG_0647 by Jon Polo, on Flickr...
5
1K
  • Locked
Why? Because of the owner? The cheaper won't be as clean as the SIA.
21
4K

About this thread

.........

CarAudio.com Regular
Thread starter
.........
Joined
Location
...
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
314
Views
9,082
Last reply date
Last reply from
HardofWhoring
IMG_5860.jpeg

Brendon Jenness

    May 8, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
Screenshot 2023-12-02 161309.png

Doxquzme

    May 8, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top