2 10" american bass xfl??

[jstone2020]

i currently have 2 kicker compr 12s with a kicker ix1000 amp.. my friend is selling his 2 american bass xfl 10" subs with a ported box for 150$ i havent heard them but my question is with my current amp would these be louder than my current subs? i have a suv if that helps..

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

If the subs are good/meaning coils read GOOD/Properly and the box is tuned for the subs I would jump on that asking price for all.One hell of a deal.In the correct enclosure those subs will sound amazing compaired to the Kickers that you have,and are better quality,and will handle Alot more power than the kickers you have.Will they sound better than your current set up???Who can say without knowing your complete setup,Electrical cu ft and Htz/tuned enclosure(prefab or custom)and thickness ect. Any sub woofer performs and sounds as good as its enclosure as well as application. Ive heard a pair of Lanzar Max Pro 12s sound better than a pair of Sundown 12s that were on more power at a show last year.Its all about install and detail to specs that gain.Yet, for $150 bucks??If the coils read fine on a DMM and coils look clean,and no punctures in the surrounds? Id snagg them right up and build a box for them and put them in that suv.And decide for yourself

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

XFL 10s..4.0 cu ft @32htz either subs up port rear,or subs rear port rear sound /perform best of my experiencing

 

[sounds_explicit]

sub up, port back imo.

and that amp only rated 1000 watts x1 at 2 ohms. id run a diff amp to them able to handle 1 ohm.

 

[jstone2020]

View attachment 26551996 he told they were wired to 2 ohms i havent had a chance to check it yet but it is pretty loud definitly worth the 150$ im just goin to need a bigger amp if i decide to keep them but i should have the port facing the front of the car is what your saying?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

sub up, port back imo.
and that amp only rated 1000 watts x1 at 2 ohms. id run a diff amp to them able to handle 1 ohm.

Depends on the vehicles electrical,and coil configuration.Running 1 ohm stable isnt always best..for one its hard on the vehicles electrical unless you have the serious electrical upgrades to generate at that ohm load.Harder on most amps,alts,and vehicle system,,and not as clean in most cases.I run 2 ohms on a daily with a stock atl and two agm batts and big three with eld bypass in Honda CRV,and hits pretty **** hard.Telling people to run at a 1ohm load leads to an expense(sometimes am overwhelming expense) to maintain that ohm load safely and efficiently.2 ohms is safe in most stock applications and can be very effective without spending alot of money for that 2-5 db gain

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Is that a 8" sono tube for a pair of 10s ?? That box and port look too big

 

---------- Post added at 02:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:16 PM ----------

 

That being said the subs alone are worth 150 if they r good.you can always get a custom box built

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

View attachment 26551996 he told they were wired to 2 ohms i havent had a chance to check it yet but it is pretty loud definitly worth the 150$ im just goin to need a bigger amp if i decide to keep them but i should have the port facing the front of the car is what your saying?

He has either the DVC 2 ohm subs as I have wired to run a 2 ohm load for the pair, or a pair of dvc 4 ohm wired on one coil wired to ea sub to run 2 ohms at half rms value.Bigger isnt always better.Im running approx 1400-1500 rms on a pair of AQ hds310s @2ohms and is Plenty of Power for those jokers.Enough that the top of my vehicle ripples on Decaf tunes, as well as having my windshield wipers move enough that I need use Rain-X to see in rainy weather.That amp you have will run those subs just fine for now until you get a more efficient amp and power upgrades to run those subs to theyrll full potential.Id find out what coil configuration they are for sure though.That will be your answer to what ohm load you would need to be at and find a great amp to match for them /supply and demand...In an SUV.. from my experience..sub woofer is firing Upward(cieling) and the port is firing Rear to the back tailgate,OR Sub firing Rear(tailgate)and port Rear(tailgate).I run the second set up due to #1 ..My CRV roof isnt sturdy enough to handle the beating/risking metal damage due to not preping/deadening and extra support,so to minimize the full impact I chose subs rear port rear firing