1999 Silverado Alpine Build

[smgreen20 10+ year member]

Sense your rear away isn't raised, I'd go w/the two 10s in a properly ported box. I have two 12s in a ported box and they're in as small as a ported box they can go in, but remember, my seat is raised 2". 2 cf is about right w/o raising your seat. I have 3 cf after the seat lift.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

If only you could get the center bar out of the grille, I think it'd look way more clean all black then.

And what smgreen said is a good point. I think properly ported 10's would have a bigger impact than slightly constricted 12's.

 

[martiandancer31 10+ year member]

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that actually looks pretty darn good. If you did want to experiment with some photo editing programs i'd suggest GIMP for mac, GIMP - for Mac OS X

on a side note, seeing these pics makes me want to go off-roading in my buick!!

 

[silveradokid 10+ year member]

Yeah, I do like the gm grills more than silverado grills because they have no bar in the center, but its there and it has to stay there. I do like the look of it in that photo, I just think it needs to be cleaned and repainted. And don't try that lol!, it'll destroy your buick. Onto the subs, I'm looking at the specs and alpine says optimum sealed for 12" is .65-1.25cuft and ported is 1.0-2.0cf. For the 10's it says sealed is .5-1.0 and for ported .8-1.5cuft. So 1.0cuft ported seems to be on the small side for a 10" sub. Also I don't really know how to build a ported box, I'm sure I could build it but I don't know how to design one to have the right kind of box

 

[silveradokid 10+ year member]

Also how hard is it to raise the seat, and does that leave very little head room for the people sitting in the back?

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

I looked at smgreen's build-log in his sig. and it looked very easy to raise the back seat.

Also, Buck on here does great box designs for a dollar. Something to think about. And you're in OC, so if you did want someone to build for you, I know Don Hampton in Ontario does great work, designs and builds enclosures. Currently building mine right now

 

[smgreen20 10+ year member]

I'd be open to building you one as well. I have access to that style truck you know.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

S&H would ****, but I have built many boxes for this truck.

 

[silveradokid 10+ year member]

Lol yeah I know you do sm green. How much would it cost to have one built? I'm kinda on a tight budget here being that I go back to school in three weeks. And raising a seat doesn't seem hard, but I don't have a welder nor do I know how to weld, and I think you have to weld extensions on the back of the seat for it to lock in place. Also is there a security risk when you raise the seat? And if I raised the seat how much more air space would I get? I'm perfectly capable of building things, the design on this box is the difficult part because I don't know about tuning them to the correct hertz and proper air space design and if it were ported I don't know where the port would go.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

i believe raising the seat only involves lift blocks and flipping the loop on the back wall for the seat to latch right. and as long as you bolting everything back down with good grade 5 or 8 bolts safety shouldnt be a concern. i recommend grade 8 bolts and torqued to 110ftlb

 

[smgreen20 10+ year member]

At a 2" lift, the back of the seat will just lock in. Using every bit of space I could I got 3 cf. I could actually get another .4 cf total with a slight redesign, but I didn't like the down firing set up. Cost in materials alone is about $85 here.

$33 for the wood, $5 glue, $6 box terminal, $30 carpet, $10 spray glue. Then there's the labor, I'd do it for $50 then the S&H ??.

 

[martiandancer31 10+ year member]

At a 2" lift, the back of the seat will just lock in. Using every bit of space I could I got 3 cf. I could actually get another .4 cf total with a slight redesign, but I didn't like the down firing set up. Cost in materials alone is about $85 here.$33 for the wood, $5 glue, $6 box terminal, $30 carpet, $10 spray glue. Then there's the labor, I'd do it for $50 then the S&H ??.

could he possibly get more airspace using some glass here and there? maybe another .4 cubes?

edit: probably not, floor's pretty flat back there.

 

[smgreen20 10+ year member]

The floor is far from flat. You've got the drive shaft hump and the "lift" for the rear bench seat to sit/bolt to. If you really wanted to you could tap into that very little bit of space just in from of the jack on that upper level/"lift" section. Might not get a whole lot, but also remember that your amps are there too. And to be honest, you might as well remove the jack anyway. I highly doubt it'd be able to go high enough to lift your truck off of the ground. You could glass over the hump and up that back hump that the seat/jack sits on.

IMHO, I'd go with two 10"s front firing, ports aiming towards the back and glass 90% of the floor. But as you're on a college budget, resin and mat isn't cheap.

 

[silveradokid 10+ year member]

Yes, and I've never worked with fiberglass before. Another thing, I want a downfiring enclosure, because I'm pretty sure my car is going to get broken into again, and my theory is, if they can't steal it they will trash it. So if it is downfiring they cannot touch the subs, if it is forward firing they can ruin the subs, even if there are grills over them, which there would be, they still could ruin the subs. Down firing is what I decided on, how much space do I need to leave between the sub and the floor? Also what if I just paid you for blueprints of a box that way you wouldn't have to send anything but an email. Haha and I agree, not sure hom much that jack is going to help being that my truck is lifted, might need to invest in an aftermarket jack. But I don't think I'm going to be doing any glass work to get up in that area. So far what I have, It maximizes the space under the seat, but its just a rough design out of cardboard. A little scared to start with the wood, need to do some more research first. And with the 2" seat lift you didn't have to extend the locking tabs on the back of the seat?

 

[silveradokid 10+ year member]

Well I think I need to get started on the box soon since I leave for school in 13 days, so the plan is to have everything ready to go because I don't have the money for the subs yet, so I plan on ordering them in a week maybe two, I want to have everything done and ready to go when the time comes. So I think I might just build a sealed box for two twelves since I'm not really sure how to design a ported box for a truck like mine. Probably won't start building till Wednesday or so.

 

[silveradokid 10+ year member]

Got started on the box, made a good amount of progress. I think I have about 1.25cuft per chamber, which is good. I'm not sure if I'm going with 10's or 12's yet. If I do 10's I might port it.