10" Sub with 4.5" or less mounting depth - lets create a list!

[Boson21 10+ year member]

Hi,

What current 10” subs (shallow or otherwise) have a mounting depth of 4.5” or less (looking for a list here…)?

I’m looking for options that I can model in WINISD to see what will fit in the original sub location in my vehicle but give me ‘optimum’ bass in a small / sealed enclosure (18l or so based on the existing space available). I’ve tried to find a database to work from and some of the online retailers but found nothing that was at all comprehensive so I hope a post on here might give me some too look at…

The system has mid-bass that performs well from around 55 / 60Hz so I’m very much focussing on bass reinforcement rather than something that will be flat and good SQ right the way across the range (if a driver delivers up to the mid-bass then I’ll just cut it off there and let them take over.

Oh, and price wise I’m not working to specific budget and certainly not looking to the cheap-end or anything so please reply with any driver –– naturally if you have first-hand experience of it I’d love to know your thoughts.

Don't be shy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif if you know of one, please post a reply...

Cheers

Click to read more...

 

[Boson21 10+ year member]

Can’t believe it – loads of reads and no replies //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif?? Have I upset everyone //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif?? OK here’s a few I’ve been researching to start things off;

• Alpine SWR-T10 (looked good but read about it needing a fair bit of power and in a 18l enclosure doesn’t seem to go that low)
  
• Earthquake SWS-10X
  
• Helix E10W
  
• Hertz ES F25.5
  
• JL 10W1v2 (superseded? Don’t seem to be around)
  
• Kenwood WR-W10F
  
• MBQuart RLP254
  
• Morel Elate SW10
  
• Phoenix Gold SL10D2 (looks good on paper but can’t find anyone that’s actually heard one!)
  
• Pioneer TS-SW2501S2 (concerned about price as it seems cheap – plot suggests it might be boomy / uncontrolled?)
  
• Rockford P3SD410
  
• SB Acoustics SW26DAC76-4
  

These are mostly shallow mounts and I have a feeling that with 4.5” the answer maybe a normal sub that happens to have a low profile…

Any not listed that fit the bill would be great, or failing that any feedback or comment in regards any of the above would be interesting too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif.

 

[phunky.buddha 10+ year member]

JL 10w1v2 models pretty nicely in WinISD, and when I was hunting shallow 10s to go under the back seat in my crew cab, it won my comparison. I went through pretty much everything on your list that was under $200. The JL is quite musical in the recommended size sealed box, and hits hard enough with 370w behind it to make the hair on my arms tingle. I might build a ported fiberglass box that runs the entire width of my truck (current box only goes 2/3 of the way across under my split bench) to go a little lower and louder, but it sounds pretty **** good right now.

Being driven by a JL class D monoblock amp and an Apline 7998.

 

[zako 10+ year member]

Peerless has a 10 inch shallow mount subwoofer in XLS family with under 4 inch depth. That's pretty much all I know about it. The regular sized XLS and XXLS subwoofers have very good reputation for SQ. People who have tried the Alpine thins have very good opinions of those. That would have been my choice.

 

[Mitch86 5,000+ posts]

I was going to say Sundown SD-2, but just looked them up and they are 4.75". //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[Boson21 10+ year member]

Thanks for the replies,

Interesting on the JL – in an 18l sealed enclosure it plot just above average so the fact that it is capable of making hairs stand is encouraging – you are throwing more watts at it than I have natively though so would be good to hear from anyone running them closer to my available power levels…

The Peerless (P835028) doesn’t model that well on WINISD in a 18l enclosure unfortunately – I’d be interested with any first-hand feedback from anyone with the driver as the numbers / plots aren’t everything (as above)

I may be able to ‘squeeze the room’ for 4.75” depth, I’ll have to check if it cools from the rear or sides. On a quick model in WINISD it certainly extends lower than the Peerless.

Any further suggests or feedback most welcome!

Thanks again…

 

[Mitch86 5,000+ posts]

The sd-2 can be mounted directly against the back of the enclosure if need be. It vents through the side of the basket etc... it will handle more power than most "shallow mount" type subs if you ever feel the need to throw 500+ watts to it. But I'm sure 250-300 watts would work well also. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[phunky.buddha 10+ year member]

Thanks for the replies,
Interesting on the JL – in an 18l sealed enclosure it plot just above average so the fact that it is capable of making hairs stand is encouraging – you are throwing more watts at it than I have natively though so would be good to hear from anyone running them closer to my available power levels…

You didn't specify power levels. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I bought the 1400D amp which was rated for 320w, which in my mind would be a perfect match for a 300wrms rated sub- but the calibration sheet in the box was listed more around 370.

 

[Boson21 10+ year member]

Hi Calesta, sorry I didn’t mention as I didn’t want to take it too far towards my specific application as I thought a more generic ‘driver list’ would be more useful to others and also get more replies – I’m happy to do the legwork / modelling myself in the background for my particular requirements.

As you asked //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I have about 200W RMS to through at the driver (realistically I'm expecting closer to 150W). This is because the car has a MOST fibre connection between the head and amp (12.1 Linn OEM) and this is proprietary. I've looked into a MOST interface but no options are available, and I really don't want to go down the Clean-Sweep type route of converting speaker output to line level and then into an amp as I haven't got the space (or desire for the complexity for that matter).

So this is all about the best suited driver to support the mid-bass / woofers in the rear quarters when things go lower than 50 - 55 Hz. SQ is important but I’ll cut the sub off quite low so given the compromises of the amplification and box space to keep it as OE as possible I am focussing on bass extension and SPL more…

Thanks again…

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Elemental Designs: Car Stereo, Home Speakers, Electronics

 

---------- Post added at 10:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:15 AM ----------

 

why not just go with an 8m inch would be a much better foit for a small area and small mounting depth

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Elemental Designs: Car Stereo, Home Speakers, Electronics

DLS W308B (W308-B) 250W 8" Single 4 ohm Performance W Car Subwoofer/Sub | eBay

ALPINE SWR-843D 8" 350W RMS TYPE R SERIES DUAL VOICE COIL CAR STEREO SUBWOOFER | eBay

ALPINE SWR-843D 8" 350W RMS TYPE R SERIES DUAL VOICE COIL CAR STEREO SUBWOOFER | eBay

ARC8D4 ARC AUDIO 8" CAR SUB 300W MAX DUAL 4-OHM CLEAN BASS SUBWOOFER SPEAKER NEW | eBay

Morel Primo 804 (primo804) 8" Single 4 ohm Primo Series Car Subwoofer/Sub Woofer | eBay

NEW FOCAL 21 V2 POLYGLASS SERIES 8" CAR SUBWOOFER 21V2 250W RMS 4 -OHMS | eBay

SS82 8" SUBWOOFER CRITICAL MASS AUDIO SUB US JL EQ AMP | eBay

best option right here

 

[Boson21 10+ year member]

A very good point!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I suppose as the stock sub is 10" I went that way almost automatically (especially as the frame is made to accept a 10" driver - but I since made the decision to build an enclosure and discard the frame anyway). I was also working on the premise that larger sub = larger cone surface and therefore maximum SPL (aka why Kicker created the square designs) - but it's suddenly occurred to me though that the xMax limitations of the 10" subs that will fit depth wise is probably negating this altogether. In summary then I now believe my whole thought process in relations to driver size was flawed and you've made me realise it!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/ponder.gif.ec2527b23f1d287b60dcbba54f95edba.gif

I've modelled some of the drivers in WINISD and was quite surprised - I then realised I actually had a new / unused Rainbow Vanadium 8 and modelled that in an 18l sealed enclosure and the plot was right up there. Only issue with that is it is dual 4 ohm VC and the current driver is 3.1 Ohm (measured at rest). As I can't get detailed specs of the amp, I'm a bit wary of wiring in parallel to give 2 ohm for it to drive into, series would give 8 and that will reduced the SPL / watts available I'm guessing, and as the Vanadium is rated at 150W (250W Peak) I can't really run single VC for fear of burning it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/scared.gif.f134e57c6c93ccd0f15aa5ac32c7d4a0.gif

However, for my application 8" looks to be the way to go...if anyone wants to suggest an 8" that isn't on mcleric83's list then feel free (but as this was also intended to create a list of current 10" that will fit a MD of under 5") please continue to post any suggestion son that front too...

Many thanks

 

[phunky.buddha 10+ year member]

Hi Calesta, sorry I didn’t mention as I didn’t want to take it too far towards my specific application as I thought a more generic ‘driver list’ would be more useful to others and also get more replies – I’m happy to do the legwork / modelling myself in the background for my particular requirements.
As you asked //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I have about 200W RMS to through at the driver (realistically I'm expecting closer to 150W). This is because the car has a MOST fibre connection between the head and amp (12.1 Linn OEM) and this is proprietary. I've looked into a MOST interface but no options are available, and I really don't want to go down the Clean-Sweep type route of converting speaker output to line level and then into an amp as I haven't got the space (or desire for the complexity for that matter).

So this is all about the best suited driver to support the mid-bass / woofers in the rear quarters when things go lower than 50 - 55 Hz. SQ is important but I’ll cut the sub off quite low so given the compromises of the amplification and box space to keep it as OE as possible I am focussing on bass extension and SPL more…

Thanks again…

Gotcha. The premise of a general list was good until you mentioned your own power requirements- then it got specific. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif As far as your car's specific limitations, I've done enough of my own cars that I pretty much prefer to just gut whatever came from the factory and then building my own setup using whatever will fit in the leftover holes. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[Boson21 10+ year member]

Thanks Calesta - you drew me out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif - to be honest it wasn't so much a premise (I had got a bit frustrated that there was no current lists or threads that hadn't gone off topic and was sure others would find it useful (now or in the future). Of course there was my own requirement lurking in the background, and your info is a big help with that so thank you.

I would do the same as you and rip out but mines an odd system and I cannot change the head unit, so only have a fibre out that has no aftermarket amps or interfaces. The only option would be to use a Cleansweep on the existing amp outputs and then add my own equipment behind and this is not only a big spend but I don't have the space. The car in question is an Aston Martin DB9 so I want to keep the look in the cabin as stock as possible too - life's full off compromises it seems...

As for the list, it's growing nicely so lets continue if anyone else has got driver suggestions... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/clap.gif.178cba2c538c68e720c727fcb024b19c.gif

 

[phunky.buddha 10+ year member]

Oh, very nice! You're playing in much higher dollar dashes than I am, so I completely understand why you'd want to keep the dash intact. That's not as much of a concern in my S2000 or my pickup. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

You're welcome for the info- back on topic!