1 sub vs 2 subs?

personally ive had good luck with subs and port up in the eclipses ive done in he past. last one had 4 t1 tens with a dual 4 inch ports on 800 per sub and it metered a decent 153 which i found was good for fosgate. the same box in a ford 500 trunk on the other hand with 4 p3 tens on 1200w total was burping 151s.

looking at your car i would try sub up port to the back if you can squeeze 6-8 inches of free space along he back of the hatch

 
Both up towards hatch? That'd be interesting. Picture my trunk as rectangle box with a triangular plane on top. Towards the hatch it gets shorter, so I could do subs and ports to hatch, but can only go so deep before it'd have little room.

However im still taking in ideas up

 
yep.
boxes with ports on different faces are missing the point entirely, IMO
By this you mean sub up port to the rear or sub back port to the side? Or do you mean a box with multiple ports that fire to both sides?
Yes to all.
That's odd, I was told by someone who knows his stuff the exact opposite (that you never have the cone and port opening on the same plane and you most certainly don't have the two in close proximity to one another)

 
That's odd, I was told by someone who knows his stuff the exact opposite (that you never have the cone and port opening on the same plane and you most certainly don't have the two in close proximity to one another)
I've heard that too, where putting them farthest apart can build up best unloading.. Gahh

 

---------- Post added at 04:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:32 PM ----------

 

personally ive had good luck with subs and port up in the eclipses ive done in he past. last one had 4 t1 tens with a dual 4 inch ports on 800 per sub and it metered a decent 153 which i found was good for fosgate. the same box in a ford 500 trunk on the other hand with 4 p3 tens on 1200w total was burping 151s.
looking at your car i would try sub up port to the back if you can squeeze 6-8 inches of free space along he back of the hatch
What the heIl did u do to your cruze! I remember u just got tht

 
A little tid-bit on the 7th gen Celica's - the peak frequency is actually in the 58-61hz range in these cars... (not good for music), though there is also a smaller peak in the 47-50 hz range, which you seem to have found...

For music, I'd go woofer either up or to the back - with port to the driver side (leave 5-6" space on port side of box for clearance).

 
That's odd, I was told by someone who knows his stuff the exact opposite (that you never have the cone and port opening on the same plane and you most certainly don't have the two in close proximity to one another)
using the work "never" instantly negates the statement and credibility. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif in general, avoid absolutes. :p

you want the port output to combine in-phase with the woofer cone. you want the two to add constructively anything else and they do not fully add. who wants that? if you didn't want them to combine, then you would just port it outside.

how you achieve this addition is vehicle/install/orientation/distance dependent.

my point is that it's the easiest to achieve accurate tuning with them on the same plane, and it's the easiest to work with. the wavelengths are long enough that they will act as one source.

one reason for having them on different planes is to get more distance to lower the effective tuning frequency. may not be a bad thing.

OP - you'll get a dozen different recommendations from a dozen people. that's what forums are good for - variety. you won't get a consensus.

build and test then build again... or build and run with it.

 
the theory behind home audio port placement is different then pro audio port placement which is different than car audio port placement. one commonality is that all three are environment dependent.

it's hard to draw a line between all platforms and make a general statement. my opinions above were for car audio only.

the cool thing about home and pro audio is all of the R&D. hundreds of hours per speaker system. and still, there is every variation possible.

one truth is that anything properly implemented can be successful.

 
I guess I'm stuck with playing around. Maay do a 6 cubes sealed box and do tht. Really going for what the woofer is designed around, SQL,

I'm not disregarding anyone's opinions, but I'll see if I can fit a port to driver side, can also try both facing hatch, and simply rotate the box up to see if it changes.

 
Experimentation is easier and more fun than computation. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Appreciate the input,

You're one of the few who knows a great deal with this.

May be pm'in you about other things if I need help!

 
Ok, And yeah they would. Well if I have them firing into a corner(s)

My trunk is widest near the hatch wall due to wheel wells,

So would ports go to both corners or one? I would love to build a dozen boxes, but I don't own a tl, nor have the time to build so much. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
By "into corner" that's mainly an SPL trick where a box is actually sitting at an angle firing into the corner, though in a lot of applications firing the port out the side works nicely.

 
By "into corner" that's mainly an SPL trick where a box is actually sitting at an angle firing into the corner, though in a lot of applications firing the port out the side works nicely.
in a corner you increase the overall source amplitude by 6dB compared to sitting on a flat plane with no reflecting surfaces. each reflecting plane gives you 3dB (since the reflection adds perfectly to the source). but the distance you need to be to the corner to achieve this gain is based on wavelength. note that if your reflecting plane is a quarter-wavelength away, then it results in cancellation.

 
in a corner you increase the overall source amplitude by 6dB compared to sitting on a flat plane with no reflecting surfaces. each reflecting plane gives you 3dB (since the reflection adds perfectly to the source). but the distance you need to be to the corner to achieve this gain is based on wavelength. note that if your reflecting plane is a quarter-wavelength away, then it results in cancellation.
I see. So 5-6" wont be that beneficial? I know a quarter wave length of 40hz is roughly 4feet, so any waves within 20 hz I should be fine..

 
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