Featured Newbie Seeking Help with Audio Configuration

hektikm6

CarAudio.com Recruit
Hey everyone, I’m new here and hoping someone can shed some light on this setup.
I had someone start the install, but unfortunately the work was not done properly and resulted in some damage to the vehicle (I’ll leave it at that 😅).
I’ve attached a few photos for reference. I’m just trying to understand what I may be doing wrong, or what I should be doing so I can move forward the right way from here - the sub does not sound near to how it should be and the bass knob D4S does nothing wither way to the level of the bass, the mid range sound ok, all stock speakers are still in place including the factory amp and under seat woofers... Any guidance would be greatly appreciated! (y)

12" SUNDOWN CLASSIC SUB PORTED ENCLOSURE
INFINITY REFERENCE MIDS 407F 4"
DOWN4SOUND MM1000 (MINI MAXX) – 1000W RMS (SUB)
DS18 X 2-Channel Ultra Compact Class D Amplifier 2 × 140 Watts RMS @ 4-ohm (MID)
LC2I PRO
PRV EX 3.5 CROSSOVER
(D4S) digital voltmeter / temperature / clip indicator with a remote bass knob

Connected the Sub + Played around with the LC2 controls & PRV Crossover - Not sure if its the size of the box that's the issue or the fine tuning/possible wiring to the sub box thats the issue?? I don't have experience using either (old school lol )

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Hey everyone, I’m new here and hoping someone can shed some light on this setup.
I had someone start the install, but unfortunately the work was not done properly and resulted in some damage to the vehicle (I’ll leave it at that 😅).
I’ve attached a few photos for reference. I’m just trying to understand what I may be doing wrong, or what I should be doing so I can move forward the right way from here - the sub does not sound near to how it should be and the bass knob D4S does nothing wither way to the level of the bass, the mid range sound ok, all stock speakers are still in place including the factory amp and under seat woofers... Any guidance would be greatly appreciated! (y)

12" SUNDOWN CLASSIC SUB PORTED ENCLOSURE
INFINITY REFERENCE MIDS 407F 4"
DOWN4SOUND MM1000 (MINI MAXX) – 1000W RMS (SUB)
DS18 X 2-Channel Ultra Compact Class D Amplifier 2 × 140 Watts RMS @ 4-ohm (MID)
LC2I PRO
PRV EX 3.5 CROSSOVER
(D4S) digital voltmeter / temperature / clip indicator with a remote bass knob

Connected the Sub + Played around with the LC2 controls & PRV Crossover - Not sure if its the size of the box that's the issue or the fine tuning/possible wiring to the sub box thats the issue?? I don't have experience using either (old school lol )

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Welcome to the group! It sounds like you're dealing with a complex situation, but I'm here to help you troubleshoot your car audio setup. Let's break down your setup and potential issues step by step.

### 1. **Subwoofer Sound Quality**
- **Subwoofer Wiring**: Ensure that the subwoofer is wired correctly. Check the polarity of the connections; the positive terminal of the amplifier should connect to the positive terminal of the subwoofer, and the same for the negative. This can significantly affect the sound quality.
- **Box Size**: The enclosure size is crucial for the performance of the subwoofer. Verify that the ported enclosure you have matches the specifications recommended by Sundown for the Classic Sub. If it’s too large or too small, it can impact sound quality.
- **Tuning the LC2i Pro**: The LC2i is used to convert speaker-level signals to RCA outputs. Make sure the gain settings are adjusted properly. Start with the gain at halfway and adjust from there based on the sound you're getting. Also, ensure the bass boost and other EQ settings are configured to match your preferences.

### 2. **Bass Knob Issue**
- **Connection Check**: Check if the bass knob is connected properly. It should be plugged into the D4S amplifier. If there’s no response from the knob, it might be either a faulty knob or connection.
- **Amplifier Settings**: Ensure that the amplifier’s level settings are not set too low. Sometimes the gain on the amp needs to be adjusted to allow the bass knob to control the output effectively.

### 3. **Midrange Performance**
- The Infinity Reference mids should sound decent. If they are working fine, ensure that the crossover (PRV EX 3.5) is set correctly for the mids. Adjust the crossover frequency to ensure that the mids are not receiving frequencies meant for the subwoofer.

### 4. **Factory Amp and Underseat Woofers**
- Since you are still using the factory speakers and amp, ensure that they are not interfering with the new setup. You may want to disconnect the factory amp temporarily to see if it improves the sound of your new components.

### 5. **General Tips**
- **Wiring Check**: Inspect all wiring for any damage or loose connections. A loose ground can cause poor sound quality.
- **Test with Different Music**: Sometimes certain genres may not showcase the sub's potential. Try different types of music to see if the bass improves.
- **Consult Documentation**: Refer to manuals for each component for specific setup instructions and settings.

### Conclusion
After checking these aspects, you should have a clearer idea of what might be causing the issues. If the problems persist, consider reaching out to a professional installer to help diagnose any underlying issues.

Feel free to share any more details or photos that might help pinpoint the problem. Also, if there are any other members with experience in car audio setups, your insights would be greatly appreciated!
 
Was the system tuned at all after the install?

Do you know what the cubic feet of the enclosure is after sub and port displacement, or what the enclosure is tuned to?
 
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the sub does not sound near to how it should be and the bass knob D4S does nothing wither way to the level of the bass
Everything looks legit, even the box looks like a 1.75ft³. I say the sub is still stiff so you gotta give it a few hours of play time till it breaks in and gives you that boom you are craving. If the bassknob is not doing anything then there is an install/setup issue. If working, it should at least fully silence the sub.
 
This is one of those things where I can't really troubleshoot it unless It's in front of me.

Try taking it to a shop and have them take a peek. They might charge a 30 min troubleshooting fee, but they should be able to figure it out pretty quick.

it could be bad turning, bad connections, bad amp, bad RCA's, bad radio, bad DSP, etc...
 
Your 2 channel Amp, how is the Sub(s) wired? single or dual voice coil, series or parallel wired? 4 ohm amp wired Par will -2 ohm, Series wiring will +8 ohm. Both will sound a little different from stock.
 
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Your 2 channel Amp, how is the Sub(s) wired? single or dual voice coil, series or parallel wired? 4 ohm amp wired Par will -2 ohm, Series wiring will +8 ohm. Both will sound a little different from stock.
Thanks for the reply.
The sub is powered by a Down4Sound MM1000 mono amp (not the 2-channel)

The 2-channel DS18 amp is only running the mid-range speakers, not the sub.
The sub is wired directly to the mono amp at 4-ohm, so there’s no series or parallel wiring involved on the sub side.

My concern is more around:Signal path / gain structure,LC2i Pro settings, PRV crossover points, Remote bass knob behavior (doesn’t seem to change output)

Bass is present but the response feels off, and mids sound flat/mono, so I’m trying to confirm the system is staged and crossed correctly rather than a wiring impedance issue.




 
Can you post clearer pics of your crossover unit. At least we can tell you if something obviously wrong with basic settings, then virtually troubleshoot from there.
As said, can be pretty difficult to do without being there, but does look like a fairly clean install.
 
How are you getting signal to the subwoofer? I'm assuming from factory speaker wire
Did you tap into the front speakers or rear speakers?
Front speakers typically have full range signal and will have more bass
 
Thanks for the reply.
The sub is powered by a Down4Sound MM1000 mono amp (not the 2-channel)

The 2-channel DS18 amp is only running the mid-range speakers, not the sub.
The sub is wired directly to the mono amp at 4-ohm, so there’s no series or parallel wiring involved on the sub side.

My concern is more around:Signal path / gain structure,LC2i Pro settings, PRV crossover points, Remote bass knob behavior (doesn’t seem to change output)

Bass is present but the response feels off, and mids sound flat/mono, so I’m trying to confirm the system is staged and crossed correctly rather than a wiring impedance issue.




Ok, thanks for clearing that up for me, It was a little hard to tell from the pics.
 
Can you post clearer pics of your crossover unit. At least we can tell you if something obviously wrong with basic settings, then virtually troubleshoot from there.
As said, can be pretty difficult to do without being there, but does look like a fairly clean install.
Thanks! - Here you go, hopefully clear enough
 

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  • Crossover settings.pdf
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  • LC2 Settings.pdf
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I went to a local car audio shop for help and ended up spending about $200, but I didn’t leave with much confidence in the outcome. The installer mainly adjusted settings without clearly explaining what was being changed, and ultimately suggested that the issue was simply the subwoofer itself, recommending a JL Audio W7 as the solution.
Since those adjustments, the front mids now sound strained and almost like they’re about to distort or pop at moderate volume. I was told this could be due to the type of music I’m playing, but this behavior wasn’t present before and didn’t occur with the factory setup.
At this point, I’m trying to understand whether this is a tuning, crossover, gain-staging, or signal issue rather than a hardware problem. I’d really appreciate some guidance on what to check or correct next so I can get the system properly dialed in.
 
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hektikm6

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