Featured 2018 Toyota Sienna minivan with 2 DB4515R on 2 Taramps Smart 8 Bass

[brianksubs]

Great looking build. I bought same pods for tweeters. Waiting on now before installing. I have the legends in 6.5.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Great looking build. I bought same pods for tweeters. Waiting on now before installing. I have the legends in 6.5.

Thanks! You'll probably like them, I have the legend mid and tweets and they're great. Only reason I decided to get the SV200L instead of the legend midbass is I like a good bump in the midbass and the SV200L are bigger/louder/more sensitive.

Those pods are nice too, easy to install so that your tweeters are on axis. And they look good and fit my interior.

 

[brianksubs]

Thanks! You'll probably like them, I have the legend mid and tweets and they're great. Only reason I decided to get the SV200L instead of the legend midbass is I like a good bump in the midbass and the SV200L are bigger/louder/more sensitive.

Those pods are nice too, easy to install so that your tweeters are on axis. And they look good and fit my interior.

They do fit nicely in your van. I expect im going to love the legends. Treated doors to maximize performance. My only concern is my low end will not be able to keep up.

Cheers guy.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

I cut away the carpet and insulation for the bottom mounting point. I welded this piece up and used panel bond to attach it. I originally wanted to rivet or even weld it on, but the heatshield for the exhaust is right up against the floor on the underside of the car, so I went with the method where I don't need to modify anything on the underside of the car. I used a polishing disk on my angle grinder to get the paint off the metal, then spray painted over everything after it was glued.

The duct for the middle row passenger side AC ran right where I needed the mount. I thought about just ditching it, but it wasn't totally obstructed so I just cut some of it away and taped it up. It still works fine.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Here's the top mounting point. It is both riveted and panel bonded (I riveted it on while the panel bond was wet). I put up some paper towels around it so I could paint it. It's done in the same fashion as the bottom, with the paint ground off.

I also filled the gap between the metal this is attached to and the roof, just to be sure it was solid. I cleaned the over spray off and then painted over the foam too.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Here's the top point. The sun visors wound up not fitting on because of the rear view mirror mount I built. I cut away part of the roof console and JB welded it up to hold it together.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

The headliner actually went back on without much modification. There's a few creases in the front, but there's 1.5" of wood on the other side so it's not a big deal lmao

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Those bungie cords in the back are holding the rear windows. They need some work. They hinge open, and the latches don't hold up to the pressure. I'll probably replace them with a bolt or something that just keeps them tightly closed.

The stripper pole is surprisingly out of the way. It doesn't block the passenger seat , and I can still reach all the controls and the glove box from the driver's seat. The only thing I had to give up were the sun visors and the glasses holder, neither of which are a big deal to me.

Most importantly though, I can crank it hard with no windshield issues. I can get it significantly louder than I could before I did all the roof work.

I also got a new headunit, the Atoto S8 android head unit, which has a digital output, so now I have a digital optical cable as the input on my DSP. It's nice because now the signal is fully digital until the DSP outputs/amp inputs.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Jim's machine works: https://jims-machineworkx.myshopify.com/

made several parts for me. Most important thing they made for me was the bus bars for my battery banks. Very nice CNC aluminum blocks.

They fucked this part though.

These are the brackets at the end of my stripper pole. You can probably see why it failed. Those pieces that attach to the base plate were only welded at the bottom of the tabs. And poorly.

The broken one in the picture failed naturally. I tested the other one afterward by whacking it with a hammer. It bent lmao. Yeah, the metal pieces are 1/4" thick, I shouldn't be able to bend it with a normal hammer. The welds just stank. broke them by hammering to bend, prying back, hammering again a few times.

Very annoying because the part cost about $160. I shouldn't have to redo it myself. Removing the powder coat, breaking the pieces apart, welding everything...

And also sucks because now it has simple spray paint covering I did instead of the powder coat.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

The new pieces.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

the welder I used to fix those pieces cost $99, less than the part cost lmao

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Installed Air Lift 1000 air bag helper springs.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

I also fixed my rear windows by removing the latch and adding some 3d printed parts and a bolt.

The nut is stock. Originally it was partially threaded, I drilled and tapped it so the bolt could pass all the way through. The 3d printed piece is to make it so the bolt line up.