Featured 2018 Toyota Sienna minivan with 2 DB4515R on 2 Taramps Smart 8 Bass

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Here's the 3d printed parts for the center console lid I mentioned earlier.

 

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Here's some shots of the back. Shows where the rear speakers are. Hope the losers sitting back there appreciate the trouble I went through to put speakers in there.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

The work that still needs to be done:
Most of my panels are damped but I haven't done the sliding side doors or the trunk lid or the roof.
Still need to get another 12 LTO cells and another 8k.

Also there still needs to be some major work. I haven't been able to push the subs at all because my roof flexes way too much. My rear view mirror fell off - I think it would more accurate to say the glass it was glued to broke away from the windshield though LMAO

the rubber bands on there because the glass was sorta vibrating inside the plastic housing of it so I put those on to stop it. wound up not mattering because it broke. Here's a pic of the windshield showing the missing chunk lol

For now I have a cheapo mirror from amazon that has a suction cup on it. Works fine.

So yeah, I need to get the headliner off and see what I'm working with. I'd like to glue some plywood panels to the ceiling and add a stripper pole to stop the roof from vibrating and hopefully stop the windshield from destroying itself further. Hopefully I'll be able to add those panels in a way that I can still get the headliner back on. I'll probably also put wood panels instead of damping the trunk lid, it shakes like a motherfucker rn, I actually put a little blue threadlock on the screws for the license plate because they were backing out lmao

 

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And yes I have the **** my dick meter on the dash

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

The trunk lid. The roof flexing is a more serious issue right now but I decided to do the trunk first since this is my first time gluing wood to panels and filling them with expanding foam.

I also added rivnuts to the lid for the bottom 2 license plate holes so I could use all 4. The car only came with the top 2 and of course the bottom of the plate smacked around.

There might be room for more damping material or foam. I'll just move on for now though. It worked really well. Low tones made it rattle and warp especially bad and it's basically gone now.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

I've been quiet for a bit on the forum, but I'm still working on the car a lot. Here's the state of the roof this weekend. great progress.

 

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Headliner off. The beams that run across the roof from the factory were held on with this very flimsy goopy stuff, probably meant to just deaden vibration. I had to get under all of them with a wirebrush on my dremel and grind that crap out. I then used 3M panel bond to stick them back on, since I can't really weld thin metal that the roof is made of especially when it's painted on the other side. The wood panels are leftover wood from the box, 3/4" birch plywood, with relief cuts through to about 1 1/2 or 2 ply (they have 7) so it bends. Put a **** load of construction adhesive on them and clamped them in place with ratcheting cargo bars.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

I'm also adding a stripper pole in the front to help the windshield flex, pics later. better pics of the roof too later.

The headliner should fit back on with some small sections cut out, it'll look pretty good and you'd never know the roof is wood.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Toyota minivan metal is challenging, max flex guaranteed.
Foam sux to work with but you managed it pretty well, the amount of deadening you've done says you've done this before.
Don't sweat the comments, I posted 2 15s hair tricking like 4 18s and got a cool response imo.

Nice build, Siennas are particularly vulnerable windshield-wise so that stripper pole speaks volumes about your experience.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Toyota minivan metal is challenging, max flex guaranteed.
Foam sux to work with but you managed it pretty well, the amount of deadening you've done says you've done this before.
Don't sweat the comments, I posted 2 15s hair tricking like 4 18s and got a cool response imo.

Nice build, Siennas are particularly vulnerable windshield-wise so that stripper pole speaks volumes about your experience.

Thanks!

This is honestly my first build that's been big enough to need one - although my last car probably would've needed one, I got rear ended before I finished it.

You're totally right about the windshield strength; the flex is bad. I haven't been able to crank it yet because it'll probably crack further. My rear view mirror fell off awhile ago and it took the bit of glass it was glued to with it

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

I decided to add a second layer to the front. It's ready for the headliner to go back on now. It should just go on with cutting some of it out and removing insulation from the back, fingers crossed.

Pardon the mess. I laid tarps to protect the interior. That black box is a space heater which I put in the car to keep it warm so the panel bond could cure properly.

This is a metal piece I made to bolt the top end of the stripper pole to. I bought one from here: https://jims-machineworkx.myshopify.com/collections/box-braces-and-supports/products/box-brace-kits

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I decided to add a second layer to the front. It's ready for the headliner to go back on now. It should just go on with cutting some of it out and removing insulation from the back, fingers crossed.
View attachment 62369
Pardon the mess. I laid tarps to protect the interior. That black box is a space heater which I put in the car to keep it warm so the panel bond could cure properly.
View attachment 62370View attachment 62371View attachment 62372View attachment 62373View attachment 62374View attachment 62375
This is a metal piece I made to bolt the top end of the stripper pole to. I bought one from here: https://jims-machineworkx.myshopify.com/collections/box-braces-and-supports/products/box-brace-kitsView attachment 62376

Adding mass to that Minivan roof and overdoing it especially up front should yield fantastic results all by itself, a stripper pole to calm the front of the roof @ the windshield even more is like money in the bank. I'm unsure how loud your setup gets but its difficult to damage glass if the cabin is solid especially where it counts.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I'm aware of the damage a pair of 4515's can do, I just designed this for 13ply Baltic Birch and a 10" Bap for an Impala trunk. Crossfire 12K powering it with like 90ah of cmaxx. Happily the rear deck is already vented into the cabin substantially so the sound won't be completely trapped. I hate the "gorilla in the trunk" that happens when most output is trapped in the trunk.

Largish airspace and demo-daily tuning should be what the guy wants. Bassheads are not easy to please... they always want more... haha. The 10" Aeroport was used in his last enclosure but without the outer flare, doing that is like shooting yourself in the foot at his power levels Imo. Both flares are necessary to benefit from an Aeroport.
The flares help transitioning airflow into both environments (cabin/enclosure) decreasing boundary layer turbulence.
The increase in efficiency at both ends actually causes laminar airflow to almost match core velocities. The increased efficiency especially manifests at high output and "greases the air" where most compression would happen at hi-output levels with a round port.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Adding mass to that Minivan roof and overdoing it especially up front should yield fantastic results all by itself, a stripper pole to calm the front of the roof @ the windshield even more is like money in the bank. I'm unsure how loud your setup gets but its difficult to damage glass if the cabin is solid especially where it counts.

Good to hear, I'm hoping all this will keep the windshield together. I have an spl labs mini bass meter but haven't metered the car yet. I'd guess I'm playing comfortably over 140 db rn, but I've been keeping it down because of the flex.

I'm aware of the damage a pair of 4515's can do, I just designed this for 13ply Baltic Birch and a 10" Bap for an Impala trunk. Crossfire 12K powering it with like 90ah of cmaxx. Happily the rear deck is already vented into the cabin substantially so the sound won't be completely trapped. I hate the "gorilla in the trunk" that happens when most output is trapped in the trunk.

Largish airspace and demo-daily tuning should be what the guy wants. Bassheads are not easy to please... they always want more... haha. The 10" Aeroport was used in his last enclosure but without the outer flare, doing that is like shooting yourself in the foot at his power levels Imo. Both flares are necessary to benefit from an Aeroport.
The flares help transitioning airflow into both environments (cabin/enclosure) decreasing boundary layer turbulence.
The increase in efficiency at both ends actually causes laminar airflow to almost match core velocities. The increased efficiency especially manifests at high output and "greases the air" where most compression would happen at hi-output levels with a round port.

That's gonna be a sweet setup! Him and I have similar tastes for the box too, I went with 7.5-8 (I forget the exact) cu ft tuned to 28.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

That's gonna be a sweet setup! Him and I have similar tastes for the box too.

Bassheads like it low and loud without peakiness. Those 9515s don't become peaky until a super large airspace is used. I liked 4.2ft3 ea @ 30hz (approximately) knowing he likes lows and wants some under 25hz content.
The guy building the enclosure is the same from the SoloX build thread. I threw him a curveball on this one as certain parts are irregular and require a different assembly order.

Check out the window brace...

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Bassheads like it low and loud without peakiness. Those 9515s don't become peaky until a super large airspace is used. I liked 4.2ft3 ea @ 30hz (approximately) knowing he likes lows and wants some under 25hz content.

I know I certainly do. I don't drive around listening to test tones. I listen to music and I want it to sound good. Chasing high numbers and limiting the bandwidth of the system would be fun, but this is my daily so music is #1.

The guy building the enclosure is the same from the SoloX build thread. I threw him a curveball on this one as certain parts are irregular and require a different assembly order.

Check out the window brace...

Lol. All the odd fractions, internal cuts, radius cuts etc. Really makes you wish you had access to a CNC machine for it I saw that thread. It was cool.

My box had it's own problems, because of the metal frame. I had to build it with a slight gap for the construction adhesive to fill. It was also awkward getting the fit right because of my 45 degree angled side. I think on some of the pics you can see where I messed the part up, and cut and re-welded it:

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

My box had it's own problems, because of the metal frame. I had to build it with a slight gap for the construction adhesive to fill. It was also awkward getting the fit right because of my 45 degree angled side. I think on some of the pics you can see where I messed the part up, and cut and re-welded it:

View attachment 62415

What you went thru building the enclosure is certainly above and beyond what most would subject themselves to. That window brace and assembly did did cause issues. I got a call and after a short discussion everything was cleared up.

Later last night I asked if it was difficult or just time consuming putting everything together. He said "difficult ASF"... Haha. But it's probably fully assembled now. I'm not calling anyone after a certain hour. He was up VERY late finishing it up.

I reviewed your entire thread and am staggered by the hours you most likely have invested. Once completed and with that second 8k in there it's going to be a sleeper beast.

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

What you went thru building the enclosure is certainly above and beyond what most would subject themselves to. That window brace and assembly did did cause issues. I got a call and after a short discussion everything was cleared up.

Later last night I asked if it was difficult or just time consuming putting everything together. He said "difficult ASF"... Haha. But it's probably fully assembled now. I'm not calling anyone after a certain hour. He was up VERY late finishing it up.

I reviewed your entire thread and am staggered by the hours you most likely have invested. Once completed and with that second 8k in there it's going to be a sleeper beast.

Thanks! Been happy with it so far, sounds good and gets down. The finished result will probably put up good numbers too.

How'd he wind up cutting it? Does he use a router?

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Thanks! Been happy with it so far, sounds good and gets down. The finished result will probably put up good numbers too.

How'd he wind up cutting it? Does he use a router?

Oh, he made me window brace exact, rounded edges and all. He's been a professional installer all his adult life until about 6mos ago.

Now he just does side work audio wise.

I'm curious what #s you expect from your van? I try to stay reasonable and modest when asked.
Those meters are brutal expectation wise

 

[CertifiedHoodClassic]

Oh, he made me window brace exact, rounded edges and all. He's been a professional installer all his adult life until about 6mos ago.

Now he just does side work audio wise.

Awesome man.

I'm curious what #s you expect from your van? I try to stay reasonable and modest when asked.
Those meters are brutal expectation wise

I'm hoping for 150+ db peak on music. I imagine the peak will be around 35-40 hz, but I'm not entirely sure. I don't think my meter does averaging so I'll just look at peak.

I'd also like to do 145+ at 28-32, that would be great.

My only real meter experience is some cars I've heard at meets and what they metered, and metering my old setups.