Isolated Battery for 6.5k Watts

[cmidrange]

Hello all, I need help finding a battery for my amps. I’m going to be running a recoil 5k amp and a recoil 800 and possibly a small 400 watt amp for highs, call it 6.5k watts all together. I’m looking for one giant battery or two depending on the price (lithium or not) that could accomplish all of this while isolated away from the stock battery in the front. Only uprgades I have for the stock eletrical is 0 gauge big three and a “powerbastards” high output alternator. Also, with whatever battery I end up going with in the back, could I get away with 4 gauge wiring coming from the alt/front battery to the back to charge it? Obviously the wire going from the back battery to the amp would be 0 gauge as well as the ground wire. Thanks!!

DII5000.1 5000 WATTS CLASS-D MONO AMPLIFIER – Recoil Audio

recoilaudio.com

DI800.4 Full-Range Class-D 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 1,500 Watts, 2-4 Ohm Stable, MOSFET Power Supply, Bridgeable – Recoil Audio

recoilaudio.com

Some of you may know “Doxquzme” and I’m sure he’ll be here to respond. He is a pure expert when it comes to this, just wanted to post publicly to get some more angles. The subs its going to be powering are going to be far less than 5k watts (2k rms) but I want to put the electrical and amperage for 5k if I ever decide to upgrade down the road.

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[cmidrange]

Hello all, I need help finding a battery for my amps. I’m going to be running a recoil 5k amp and a recoil 800 and possibly a small 400 watt amp for highs, call it 6.5k watts all together. I’m looking for one giant battery or two depending on the price (lithium or not) that could accomplish all of this while isolated away from the stock battery in the front. Only uprgades I have for the stock eletrical is 0 gauge big three and a “powerbastards” high output alternator. Also, with whatever battery I end up going with in the back, could I get away with 4 gauge wiring coming from the alt/front battery to the back to charge it? Obviously the wire going from the back battery to the amp would be 0 gauge as well as the ground wire. Thanks!!

DII5000.1 5000 WATTS CLASS-D MONO AMPLIFIER – Recoil Audio

recoilaudio.com

DI800.4 Full-Range Class-D 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 1,500 Watts, 2-4 Ohm Stable, MOSFET Power Supply, Bridgeable – Recoil Audio

recoilaudio.com

Some of you may know “Doxquzme” and I’m sure he’ll be here to respond. He is a pure expert when it comes to this, just wanted to post publicly to get some more angles. The subs its going to be powering are going to be far less than 5k watts (2k rms) but I want to put the electrical and amperage for 5k if I ever decide to upgrade down the road.

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update: found this one, seems promising but still unsure if its an appropriate battery

Robot or human?

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

Glowe Voltage - Series 2

Double the power. Half the cost. The future is now.

glowevoltage.com

Plug n play lithium

 

[cmidrange]

Glowe Voltage - Series 2

Double the power. Half the cost. The future is now.

glowevoltage.com

Plug n play lithium

Built in isolater?

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

Built in isolater?

Don't need an isolator with that

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

I'll be running one in my delta without an isolator

 

[cmidrange]

I'll be running one in my delta without an isolator

Oh cool, I have a v6 g body regal im gonna be putting this in. I just watched some of the vid, but basically all I do is wire it in parallel with the front bat, no fuses? Just a little uneasy as my stock bat is a bottom of the barrel autozone bat, and iv hooked it in parallel with a power-full optima yellow top in the past and they would fight eachother (i think) because the car would have a very weak crank with them both hooked up. Also, can I use 4 gauge to connect it to the front bat?

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

Oh cool, I have a v6 g body regal im gonna be putting this in. I just watched some of the vid, but basically all I do is wire it in parallel with the front bat, no fuses? Just a little uneasy as my stock bat is a bottom of the barrel autozone bat, and iv hooked it in parallel with a power-full optima yellow top in the past and they would fight eachother (i think) because the car would have a very weak crank with them both hooked up. Also, can I use 4 gauge to connect it to the front bat?

I'd watch the whole video man, thats the owner of glowe voltage and it's an easy watch. See if you agree with what he finds and make your decision...don't take the word of some random guy on the innerwebs saying he's gonna do it

Oh and he's using a wally mart battery for the test...I'd either get your battery tested or ideally replace it with a new one. The battery in my delta will be 4 months old when it goes into the shop. It's nothing fancy just a Duracell agm from Sam's Club.

 

[cmidrange]

I'd watch the whole video man, thats the owner of glowe voltage and it's an easy watch. See if you agree with what he finds and make your decision...don't take the word of some random guy on the innerwebs saying he's gonna do it

Oh and he's using a wally mart battery for the test...I'd either get your battery tested or ideally replace it with a new one. The battery in my delta will be 4 months old when it goes into the shop. It's nothing fancy just a Duracell agm from Sam's Club.

Great video, few questions though if its not a burden. I'm trying to understand ah's (amp hours). Taramps states you need at least 210ah battery bank to support the 5k amp yet the glow voltage as well as many other lithium battery's is only 48ah's despite being advertised to support a 12,000 watt amp. Obviously it will support it but I'm trying to understand how that works. Another words, if I'm trying to power a 5k amp, should I pay attention to the ah's or is there something else I should look for. Also, taramps is the only company iv found that advertises how much ah's the amp needs. I know the glowvoltage battery will work and I will most likely end up getting it, but I'm trying to understand what to look for in a lithium battery in proportion to the amp.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

Great video, few questions though if its not a burden. I'm trying to understand ah's (amp hours). Taramps states you need at least 210ah battery bank to support the 5k amp yet the glow voltage as well as many other lithium battery's is only 48ah's despite being advertised to support a 12,000 watt amp. Obviously it will support it but I'm trying to understand how that works. Another words, if I'm trying to power a 5k amp, should I pay attention to the ah's or is there something else I should look for. Also, taramps is the only company iv found that advertises how much ah's the amp needs. I know the glowvoltage battery will work and I will most likely end up getting it, but I'm trying to understand what to look for in a lithium battery in proportion to the amp.

Unless you're playing test tones your sub amp won't pull a lot power for longer than a real brief burst and your amps for mids and highs wont draw much power. I'd think that taramps is suggesting 210ah based on an agm battery because that big of lithium bank would power a way bigger amp than 5k. 48ah of lithium can run a really good sized system since they charge and discharge so fast and with a ho alt you'll be recharging faster than your draining playing music most likely

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I'd do a battery delete up front and focus on lithium in back, it simplifies everything, saves weight and keeps your audio main runs short. Chiming in here and no dog in the fight so shoot me later... lol. Taramps love short fat runs to the amp, and the starter/vehicle can be run off the delete up front so why not? Legit alternator?.. ok... Why buy 2 50-70lb agm when 10lb-15lb lithium is stronger? Spare nothing on interconnect and wiring... its the weak point in any install imo. Legit crimp that copper down and run the right size wire.
I'm no "expert" but I do know a few tricks... lol

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

I'd do a battery delete up front

The only reason I'm not doing that with my delta is it could potentially hurt the price more than the actual install if I ever decide to sell

 

[cmidrange]

I'd do a battery delete up front and focus on lithium in back, it simplifies everything, saves weight and keeps your audio main runs short. Chiming in here and no dog in the fight so shoot me later... lol. Taramps love short fat runs to the amp, and the starter/vehicle can be run off the delete up front so why not? Legit alternator?.. ok... Why buy 2 50-70lb agm when 10lb-15lb lithium is stronger? Spare nothing on interconnect and wiring... its the weak point in any install imo. Legit crimp that copper down and run the right size wire.
I'm no "expert" but I do know a few tricks... lol

No fighting here man, all usefull information. Agm batteries are vehicle specific (to the best of my knowledge) and I'm not sure if my vehicle would be happy with some random lithium as the only battery. Just a thought though, not too sure if its true or not.

 

[cmidrange]

The only reason I'm not doing that with my delta is it could potentially hurt the price more than the actual install if I ever decide to sell

I agree. Plus I like to have all the stock components remaining.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

I agree. Plus I like to have all the stock components remaining.

I'm not too concerned with staying stock. A battery delete is one of those things that either is a selling point or something to use to drive the price down. I don't plan to ever sell the car but everything has a price