Fuse size help [NEW TO CAR AUDIO]

[F1fitty]

Hey guys I need help with this project I have started 2 years ago and still have not finished it. Anyways I have 2 zvx-12 subs from skar audio, with a SKV2-3500 amp powering them. The 3500 amp is rated for a 350-amp fuse rating, and I am running 2 spx-65c off a RP-15O.4AB with a fuse rating of 120 amp.

Anyways I was wondering how to calculate the fuse coming off the battery, I get the two for the amps [since they are specified by skar]. But coming off the battery confuses me and I do not want to mess up and blow my stuff already. Let me know if anyone can help with some information. And I am running 1/0 gauge too, do not know if that's good or not.

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[1aespinoza Premium Member]

And I am running 1/0 gauge too, do not know if that's good or not.

That fuse is to protect the wire, so use the wire's amperage rating.

 

[F1fitty]

That fuse is to protect the wire, so use the wire's amperage rating.

Thank you for the fast reply, so keep the 350 amp and 120 amp fuse for the amps the main is feeding. Just need clarification.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

Thank you for the fast reply, so keep the 350 amp and 120 amp fuse for the amps the main is feeding. Just need clarification.

The fuses for the amp must be near them. So if I am understanding correctly, you have two 1 AWG wires coming from the battery. One with a 350a fuse and the other with a 120a fuse at the battery. Is that right?

 

[F1fitty]

The fuses for the amp must be near them. So if I am understanding correctly, you have two 1 AWG wires coming from the battery. One with a 350a fuse and the other with a 120a fuse at the battery. Is that right?

I have not put them in yet, but my plan was to find the fuse from the battery for the hot lead going back to the distribution block and then putting the 350 a and 120 a fuse on their respective wire. And off of the DB, would be 1 gauge for the 350 a and 4 gauge for the 120 a.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

I have not put them in yet, but my plan was to find the fuse from the battery for the hot lead going back to the distribution block and then putting the 350 a and 120 a fuse on their respective wire. And off of the DB, would be 1 gauge for the 350 a and 4 gauge for the 120 a.

Got it. Make sure you ask the seller about the ampacity of the wire.
For total amperage at the battery you add the 350 to 120. So 470a fuse near the battery. Although TBH I think you can get by with the 350a, since it is not a constant draw.

 

[F1fitty]

Got it. Make sure you ask the seller about the ampacity of the wire.

Yes sir, I appreciate it again.

And just for one last question from your experience may help me. I plan on running the big 3, which requires no fuses to my knowledge. Only fuse I should need is the one coming off the battery to the back, where it will break off into 2 wires. One wire going to my amp for the subs, and one wire going to the amp for my door speakers. Both wires coming off the DB will require its specified fuse through skar for the amps. And I need to find a good ground where i will connect both amps correct?

Again thank you this conversation has helped me allot.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

where it will break off into 2 wires.

You will use a fused distribution blick within 2 feet of the amps.

And I need to find a good ground where i will connect both amps correct?

Yes. Most people use the seatbelt bolt as a grounding point. You can either run a ground direct from each amp to it, or you can pretty it up and use a distribution block.
Whatever spot you choose, make certain it is sanded to bare metal. Many have had issues for not doing that.

 

[F1fitty]

You will use a fused distribution blick within 2 feet of the amps.

Yes. Most people use the seatbelt bolt as a grounding point. You can either run a ground direct from each amp to it, or you can pretty it up and use a distribution block.
Whatever spot you choose, make certain it is sanded to bare metal. Many have had issues for not doing that.

You sir have been a life savor, gave me the motivation to get it all together.
I do not know if i can upvote you or not new to the site. But thank you again!

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

You sir have been a life savor, gave me the motivation to get it all together.
I do not know if i can upvote you or not new to the site. But thank you again!

It's all good. ANL fuse holders are the best IMO.

 

[F1fitty]

It's all good. ANL fuse holders are the best IMO.

got it and what do you think about the distribution blocks with anl fuse holders inside them. Or stick to the regular DB's and put the anl fuse holder on the wire itself to the amp.

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

got it and what do you think about the distribution blocks with anl fuse holders inside them

Yes, those are the distribution blocks I am referring to for the power.

Or stick to the regular DB's

What kind of fuse does the DB use?

 

[F1fitty]

Yes, those are the distribution blocks I am referring to for the power.

What kind of fuse does the DB use?

i have seen DB blocks with fuses inside them so you do not have to put them on the wire themselves. Right now I just have regular distribution blocks with no fuses, and I would have to put them on the wire itself. Do you think I should go the other route and get the ones with the ANL place holders inside? so i do not have to worry about putting it on the wire

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

Do you think I should go the other route and get the ones with the ANL place holders inside?

Definitely. When you said DB I thought you were referring to the DB Audio brand; I now see you meant distribution block. You can use that block for the grounds since you already have it.

 

[F1fitty]

Definitely. When you said DB I thought you were referring to the DB Audio brand; I now see you meant distribution block. You can use that block for the grounds since you already have it.

perfect, last question. Do you recommend any wire, fuse, and DB supplier. Or do you go with whatever works?