What size wire? Seriously...

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The Orion HCCA 3000.1DSPLX requires three 300A fuses. Does this mean I need wiring that can sustain 900A of current? (or does this mean I need three 100A fuses?) I have never worked with amps that have more than one power input. I also have to decide on what amp(s) I will be using for my mids/highs. I figure they will not use more than 150A of fusing between them.

So this leads me to my concern. Can I get away with NOT using 4/0 wire? Will 2/0 be sufficient for a single ~17' run to the back?

Click to read more...

 

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Tin plated for corrosion resistance?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I did use Knu 1/0 for the internal amplifier hookup after the distro blocks, cause I wanted to use Blue, wire. Even with the Knu wire, if bends were less than a couple of inches, I used 90 degree elbows instead.

Amazon product ASIN B09XXCLF4D

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Tin plated for corrosion resistance?

Yes.

Amazon product ASIN B08RY3BGV3

 

[djdilliodon!]

I assure you. This is the last car stereo system I will ever install in my own vehicles. This is set in stone.

And the price difference in 1/0 and 2/0 for 30' is only $14 difference. So 2/0 it is!

2 runs of 1/0, not comparing a single run of 2/0 vs a single run of 1/0. 2 runs of 1/0 is good for 700 amps +, a single run of 2/0 is good for around 400 amps. If you are talking about doing 2 runs 2/0 even better but the bigger you go it can be a pain in the anus to run it .

 

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Ok. So coming from the alt to the 1st battery I run 2/0, then from there I run 2/0 to the rear battery. Then I come from that to the fused distribution block with 2/0. Then I use 1/0 as needed. Right?

 

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2 runs of 1/0, not comparing a single run of 2/0 vs a single run of 1/0. 2 runs of 1/0 is good for 700 amps +, a single run of 2/0 is good for around 400 amps. If you are talking about doing 2 runs 2/0 even better but the bigger you go it can be a pain in the anus to run it .

Ok. I have been assuming I would use the larger 2/0 to aid in charging the rear battery. As the alternator would only be capable of ~250A. So having more runs of wire is a waste if only able to put 250A through it right? Probably something I'm not understanding again.

 

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I don't think I can get a 450A alternator for this car.

 

[djdilliodon!]

Ok. I have been assuming I would use the larger 2/0 to aid in charging the rear battery. As the alternator would only be capable of ~250A. So having more runs of wire is a waste if only able to put 250A through it right? Probably something I'm not understanding again.

You will have batteries right? Those batteries will dump amperage as needed.

 

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You will have batteries right? Those batteries will dump amperage as needed.

Yes. I plan to get a good one for the trunk. I talked to the shop owner about it and he said to use an AGM. Now what size I don't know.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Email Nicholas Stark at Apex custom alternators, they're great, reasonable and make a good product Fill this out, and he will give the options available on the car you have. They don't sell the reduced size belts but they provide the information on the size Dayco belt you'll need to get.

Apex Alternators

Customized High Output Alternators

apexhighoutputalternators.com

 

[HardofWhoring]

As for the wire and fuse sizes:
Figure out how many watts you want to run from the amp, (min), or what you think the amp is capable of (max). Best to go max, and if you're going minimum, then go at least 20% over that. Take your wattage, divided by voltage, (Used to be standard), 14.4 running volts. Let's say 5,000w / 14.4 = 347 amps.

Your amp should have it's own on board fuses. The fuses you are adding to the wire, are FOR the wire. The purpose of the fuse is to intentionally create a weak point in the wiring, so that if something happens to the wire, that hopefully the fuse will blow, where it is protected, and easy to fix. Your fuses at/right off the battery, and at/right off the distribution block, need to be equal to or greater than the fuses for the load at the end. The wiring needs to be capable of handling more than the fuses.

350 amps is more than 1/0 can handle. You're close to 2/0, and that would depend on the length. If you wanted to use multiple 1/0 you could put 300 amp fuses, or even drop it down and put 250 amp fuses, and even that depends on length, but you're probably good.



Not sure how many alts I've seen over 400. If this is your plan you might have better luck finding a dual alt bracket.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

I was bored...


Knukonceptz. 1/0

Full Tilt 1/0

EB flex 2/0

2/0 EB flex
1/0 Full Tilt
1/0 Knukonceptz

Knot test.
Knukonceptz 1/0
Full Tilt 1/0
EB flex 2/0

 

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I can see the big difference in wire. The welding cable doesn't flex as easy but I can deal with that. The ACDC wire on ebay is also .083" larger diameter conductor and is the same price. But I really like the other wire being more flexible.

Anyway, why in the world do they state 1/0 but it is actually 2/0? Is this a marketing tactic?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Diameter is almost irrelevant - going from 1/0 to 2/0 only nets you about a 10% increase in diameter, it's the amperage rating that matters. The rated amperage at a given distance for the wire is what you want to look at. I use the stiffer welding OFC for the long runs as the cost difference is substantial, the more flexible KnuKonceptz for the amp plate after the distribution blocks. Aesthetics and ease of use for the inside after the blocks.

That ACDC wire is pretty cool, if you need 25ft, you can order the gauge you want and then specify 50ft, split the order for 50/50 black and red. That is if you are running both to the rear and parallel grounding, like Ido in my installs.

https://www.bestcaraudio.com/car-audio-myths-you-cant-ground-a-car-audio-amplifier-to-the-battery/

 

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So I have officially decided on my main wire. It's on ebay from acdcwire. I have chosen blue for positive and green for ground. Won't see much of it but looks cool nonetheless. I have taken advice from ...I think @Doxquzme to use some Knuconceptz after the rear battery to alleviate flexibility issues.