Help with Batteries For Daily

I have an unfused 2/0 wire running from the front battery to the rear battery with a disconnect. I then have a fuse block between the rear battery and my amp. I do not want anything in between my 2 batteries, I want them to function as one unit, I do have a disconnect I can access quickly if anything should ever happen.
Ok so no isolators or anything like that for you either? And you don't have any issues with them draining while not in use?

And for the grounds would I run it back to the battery ground and then ground that to the body or run separate ground from both my amps and the battery as well
 
And for the grounds would I run it back to the battery ground and then ground that to the body or run separate ground from both my amps and the battery as well
depends.some people run ground from 2nd batt to amp.....me,i ground amps and batts to chassis which in my case,requires different grounding locations for shorter runs of cable.
 
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Ok so no isolators or anything like that for you either? And you don't have any issues with them draining while not in use?

And for the grounds would I run it back to the battery ground and then ground that to the body or run separate ground from both my amps and the battery as well
Leave your battery in the engine bay the way it is but do the "Big 3". Then run a separate ground for the rear battery as close as you can to the chassis of the car or truck. No mine do not drain down, it's just like one huge normal battery.
 
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I don't feel like going thru the trouble of deleting the under hood battery. I paid good money for it and when it fails I'll warranty it out no biggie.
Indeed. Again, if you don't mind the space and weight of a couple more AGMs there's no need to open that can of worms at the 3000W point.

How would I go about hooking up multiple agms?
I can't think of too many applications where an isolator is appropriate for car audio and "deep cycle" or not you probably don't want to deep cycle any sort of lead acid battery if you can help it.
Just connect the two + terminals with some heavy wire, ideally fuse within 18" of each + terminal so that if you have a failure in that cable neither battery will be able to dead short to ground. Fuse should be appropriate sized to your alternator.

Ground as close to the secondary batteries as possible, find a good spot with some thick steel, grind/sand off paint until it's shiny and goop some vaseline or dielectric grease over it after it is secured to prevent corrosion.
 
Indeed. Again, if you don't mind the space and weight of a couple more AGMs there's no need to open that can of worms at the 3000W point.


I can't think of too many applications where an isolator is appropriate for car audio and "deep cycle" or not you probably don't want to deep cycle any sort of lead acid battery if you can help it.
Just connect the two + terminals with some heavy wire, ideally fuse within 18" of each + terminal so that if you have a failure in that cable neither battery will be able to dead short to ground. Fuse should be appropriate sized to your alternator.

Ground as close to the secondary batteries as possible, find a good spot with some thick steel, grind/sand off paint until it's shiny and goop some vaseline or dielectric grease over it after it is secured to prevent corrosion.
What would be a good battery? Preferably a big enough one so that I don't have to buy two
 

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So it doesn't have to be the same group size? My current AGM is a group 34 and it's about 7-8 months since I bought it
No, group size indicates the actual amperage and size of the battery. All 12V batteries will play nice together (except some lithium batteries) so you don't have to worry about that.
 
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Ok so no isolators or anything like that for you either? And you don't have any issues with them draining while not in use?

And for the grounds would I run it back to the battery ground and then ground that to the body or run separate ground from both my amps and the battery as well
Batteries don't drain each other unless one is bad.
 
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Blackout67

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