Best Port Tuning = (SPL).

[Jake321]

In the Future:

Z4 DD 18.
Pride Audio UFO 18.
Sundown Night Shade.
Solo X 18.
SSA Zcon 18.

And looking for ones that weigh allot. A giant single.


Or would adding more DD712s be something worth considering? Over a heavy single?

How many DD712s would it take to technically compete with a single giant 18"?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

In the Future:

Z4 DD 18.
Pride Audio UFO 18.
Sundown Night Shade.
Solo X 18.
SSA Zcon 18.

And looking for ones that weigh allot. A giant single.


Or would adding more DD712s be something worth considering? Over a heavy single?

How many DD712s would it take to technically compete with a single giant 18"?

There is no right answer. Power available, space available, and the actual design and build will make the biggest difference. Sure an 18 of that caliber should be louder than say a 712 but it may sound like crap at the same time.

Most of those subs are pretty much heatsinks and just eat power with minimal gain.

 

[Jake321]

Like my newest profile picture?

People love the way the 28hz Port has been hitting.

But has been clipping at less volume.

I'm in need of a capacitor for extra 200 watts.

Perhaps then the low volume indicator light that always blinks will turn off, and the clipping light, will stop as well?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Like my newest profile picture?

People love the way the 28hz Port has been hitting.

But has been clipping at less volume.

I'm in need of a capacitor for extra 200 watts.

Perhaps then the low volume indicator light that always blinks will turn off, and the clipping light, will stop as well?

Please don't buy a regular capacitor buy and ultra/supercaps setup instead.

 

[Jake321]

Please don't buy a regular capacitor buy and ultra/supercaps setup instead.

What Brand?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

What Brand?

Maxwell, ioxus, skelcap are the 3 most common.

Your looking for 6 3000+ farad cells linked in series for up to 16v max charge voltage. They won't care much when only charged to 14.4v. lithium batteries are another option

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

What Brand?

Can you clear up what it is exactly you're trying to accomplish here? Do you intend to play music or are you just trying to get as loud as possible on the SPL meter for 3 seconds?

 

[Water Bear]

Can you name drop a few Brands and Models that you would consider to have:
"overmotored hi- excursion drivers with insane power handling".

There's a bunch of brands out there that cross the line into "insane power handling." The v5 Sundown zv series gets 2500 RMS now, the v5 nightshade 3k, and the teams (if you can find them) go up to 5k rms on the 18. Sundown competitors (like DC audio) can do similar sorts of things. Orion has the HCC SPLX series that claim 7500 RMS on a single 18 and the SPL series that can do 5k RMS. Massive Audio has the 6k RMS BOA subs. I'm sure there's more that I just don't know about.

It's all about what you're trying to do. For example Sundown introduced the U series specifically to depart from the high roll, high excursion SPL sub design that's common now. I'm sure the folks here can tell you all you want to know about combining specific subs with specific box designs to achieve whatever kind of performance you're after.

The thing to keep in mind is power. Hispls (and some others) can tell you all about LTO lithium and other chemistries and packages. That will get you godlike performance but it takes labor, parts, and tools to build the banks. Up to 5k you can get away with a HO alt and a couple high quality AGMs. Much above that and you'll need multiple HO alts and 3+ (big, heavy) batteries, and maybe supercaps to smooth it all out (can't say about that from personal experience yet). I haven't lurked enough so I don't know what all you have already - apologies if I'm telling you what you already know.

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Can you clear up what it is exactly you're trying to accomplish here? Do you intend to play music or are you just trying to get as loud as possible on the SPL meter for 3 seconds?

^^^^This. I have a friend thats running 2-8's that hits 150's. But sounds like crapola on music. But for a few seconds farting it gets loud.

 

[SlugButter]

^^^^This. I have a friend thats running 2-8's that hits 150's. But sounds like crapola on music. But for a few seconds farting it gets loud.

We have a guy in my city that hit something like 147 DB with 6.5s. Super impressive but its made to play just that tiny range of higher frequencies. A week later I had numerous kids message me wanting boxes for 6.5s, and showing me this video of a guy hitting 147 DB. Only 1 person actually knew what he was getting (older guy who likes rock and country music). The other guys, I had to try to talk out of getting 6.5s after finding out they listen to rebassed and rap music. I had blown 6.5s sitting everywhere from these kids trying to hammer lows with 6.5s in a ported box. Then this happens……

 

[SlugButter]

That’s a super nice 6.5 btw. Best on the market in my opinion, but they have limits and need a subsonic filter In a ported box, especially if your music habit is to play content with clipped sine tones under port tuning.

 

[shredder2]

That’s a super nice 6.5 btw. Best on the market in my opinion, but they have limits and need a subsonic filter In a ported box, especially if your music habit is to play content with clipped sine tones under port tuning.

Those Rds 6.5's are capable. People constantly try to throw a strong 3K or more at them then play under 30hz content full bore resulting in what you pictured above. They even overpower the ssf setting sometimes... no joke. Any idea where the box was supposed to be tuned in that photo? I've done multiple designs for those subs and they'll perform but they do have limits. I cringe when hearing someone wants those subs on a big (3K+) amplifier. Dollars to donuts they'll be trying to play content under 30hz boosted by an epicenter. I try to design around preferred music and hard usage but there's only so much you can do. Here's an example...

Tuned 36hz playing under 30hz with big power is a recipe for failure, and Its always the enclosure's fault. Its the 1st place everyone points their finger when subs die. "User error" is alive and well just as its always been...

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

Like my newest profile picture?

People love the way the 28hz Port has been hitting.

But has been clipping at less volume.

I'm in need of a capacitor for extra 200 watts.

Perhaps then the low volume indicator light that always blinks will turn off, and the clipping light, will stop as well?

Best thing I did was switch to Lithium. It's going to cost vyou about 1000 for LTO and around 750ish for LiFeP04, but my 80ah bank of LTO is supporting 5k daily at 14.1v solid with the stock alternator.

Hit up Hispls or check the thread I made about upgrading.

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

These days power is cheap thus you have subs like you DD 700 designed to take 1500w daily. They add tight suspension with a large coil.

Wasn't that long ago late 90 early 2000s that tc sounds was making the tc3 a 3inch coiled motor that was only 1000w rms but was consequently a soft suspension.

Which was better? Really that's debatable. Remember alot of these bassheads are from the older era and have fond memories of old setups. We're those old set ups bad? I doubt it but are the new setups any better or worse?

Personally I try and build around 2kw or less for subs and 1500w or less for highs. That's around 300amps of current draw. Anything more and electrical upgrades get extremely costly.

I'm quoting this for the intelligence. Nothing wrong with running 10k daily systems. Nothing wrong with dropping a prefab in your car. Everyone is different. I don't like alot of the new subs out now. I like my subs with a low Fs and a softer suspension so I don't need tons of power. Now, I know the 18's I currently have go against that statement a fair bit, but they just sound so damn good I decided to go all in.

My first venture into Infinite baffle was due to the efficiency. Tons of bass with low power = a win for me. Now I've moved away slightly, but my enclosure is still my trunk volume because I really like how infinite baffle sounds.

If you want to run 12 subs on 20k watts, be my guest. I love seeing big builds and they are definitely impressive. But for me, it's about getting loud AND sounding good. I want nothing to do with 40hz ported boxes or 1:1 bandpass enclosures ment for the lanes.

To each his own, and may we all sing songs around a campfire while we wait for equipment to arrive.

Matt

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

^^^^This. I have a friend thats running 2-8's that hits 150's. But sounds like crapola on music. But for a few seconds farting it gets loud.

The ultra competitive SPL rigs would very likely blow up equipment if they attempted to play any frequency outside of a very small window from their peak/tuning and some will ONLY run enough battery (or cap bank) to power it for a few seconds. I do not believe that sort of thing is what OP is trying to do.