Shallow mount vs 8 inch vs radical modification

I can rear fire 8s in my Ridgeline If I wanted to get creative, I might even be able to rear fire 10s. In the OP's case, I probably wouldn't rear fire if it meant running 6.5s.

Let's see some pics of you rear firing 8's in your Ridgeline. That is a high azz backseat if you can. Take a pic with a tape measure. You need at least 9".
 
I said, "I'd take a shallow 12 over an 8". ONE 12" shallow verses ONE 8"! Sounds like you agree, since you jumped to two 8's without addressing what I said!

Two 8's is less cone area than one 12" shallow. I would take one 8W7 over two shallow 12" subs. How about that. The 8W7 would shitt all over two of those Kicker shallows.
 
I'm not going to argue hypotheticals.

Hypotheticals? I said that I would take one JL 8W7 in a ported box over two 12" shallow Kicker's. You know that the JL would roast them. Two 8's would destroy them with less cone area than one shallow 12" sub. Two 8's is approximately 100 square inches of cone area and two 12's is approximately 226 square inches of cone area. And you know that the two 8's would destroy them but can't admit it. Probably because it's me saying it. No worries kid!
 
Hypotheticals? I said that I would take one JL 8W7 in a ported box over two 12" shallow Kicker's. You know that the JL would roast them. Two 8's would destroy them with less cone area than one shallow 12" sub. Two 8's is approximately 100 square inches of cone area and two 12's is approximately 226 square inches of cone area. And you know that the two 8's would destroy them but can't admit it. Probably because it's me saying it. No worries kid!
I am confident two 12" CompRT's would beat one JL 8". There are too many variables involved, which is why I don't want to get into hypotheticals.

You said my one 12" CompRT beat my 8" L7 due to cone area... Why would one 8" outperform two 12's?

I don't hold grudges.
 
I am confident two 12" CompRT's would beat one JL 8". There are too many variables involved, which is why I don't want to get into hypotheticals.

You said my one 12" CompRT beat my 8" L7 due to cone area... Why would one 8" outperform two 12's?

I don't hold grudges.

The 8W7 is a different monster. Maybe I will post a poll and see which sub(s) people would choose.
 
Why not run 6 sa6.5s and wire them to 1.33 on like 2-2500w at 1ohm.

And playing low depends entirely on the box. I had 2 dd506 6.5s 1cube at 36hz playing down to 30hz without issue. And that was with a port loading issue.

Now I did a 3inch seat lift with 2 10s front fire in 3cubes at 36hz.

People are so scared of small subs not playing low. That's crap they play low just fine they just aren't going to be as loud for obvious reasons they aren't displacing as much air.
 
Let's see some pics of you rear firing 8's in your Ridgeline. That is a high azz backseat if you can. Take a pic with a tape measure. You need at least 9".

Haven't built the enclosure, but it's exactly 9" tall. Plus the rear wall can be angled to gain another inch or two.


 
Haven't built the enclosure, but it's exactly 9" tall. Plus the rear wall can be angled to gain another inch or two.



Bro those are down firing subs and the box is only 8" tall. Perfect for 6-½" subs rear firing. Nice try. Put another quarter and try again.
 
Haven't built the enclosure, but it's exactly 9" tall. Plus the rear wall can be angled to gain another inch or two.



The second box is for a sub that fires up. Quit wasting my time man.
 
Bro those are down firing subs and the box is only 8" tall. Perfect for 6-½" subs rear firing. Nice try. Put another quarter and try again.

I was just showing the space available.

The second box is for a sub that fires up. Quit wasting my time man.

I was hoping you could engage your brain and figure out that the up firing enclosure is 7.5" tall and leaves space for the sub and room for its cone's movement.

This pic shows the additional space above the 7.5" tall enclosure - looks like ~1.5 inches to me. Additionally, as I mentioned the rear baffle can be slanted to gain an inch or two if needed. Or maybe my tape measure is broken and there really isn't 9" under there. :rolleyes:

 
I was just showing the space available.



I was hoping you could engage your brain and figure out that the up firing enclosure is 7.5" tall and leaves space for the sub and room for its cone's movement.

This pic shows the additional space above the 7.5" tall enclosure - looks like ~1.5 inches to me. Additionally, as I mentioned the rear baffle can be slanted to gain an inch or two if needed. Or maybe my tape measure is broken and there really isn't 9" under there. :rolleyes:


It's all talk until it's built. People don't believe that my box is 4.7 cubes net in a standard cab. Go build it.
 
Why not run 6 sa6.5s and wire them to 1.33 on like 2-2500w at 1ohm.

And playing low depends entirely on the box. I had 2 dd506 6.5s 1cube at 36hz playing down to 30hz without issue. And that was with a port loading issue.

Now I did a 3inch seat lift with 2 10s front fire in 3cubes at 36hz.

People are so scared of small subs not playing low. That's crap they play low just fine they just aren't going to be as loud for obvious reasons they aren't displacing as much air.

It really just depends on how low. 6.5’s and 8’s will probably play low enough for most people, especially with good box and amps, say down to 28 hz or so.

When it comes to people trying to do 155-160 db at like 25 hz, no, nobody is using 8’s.

Smaller woofers are going to be more likely to fall off on the lower end, and that’s just physics. It’s not that small woofers can’t play low, it’s how hard they fall off trying to play low, especially with limited xmax due to spider sizes on smaller woofers and resonance efficiency factors.

And if you tune small woofers too low to try to play low, you’ll lose a lot of output. Just depends on what you consider low.
 
It really just depends on how low. 6.5’s and 8’s will probably play low enough for most people, especially with good box and amps, say down to 28 hz or so.

When it comes to people trying to do 155-160 db at like 25 hz, no, nobody is using 8’s.

Smaller woofers are going to be more likely to fall off on the lower end, and that’s just physics. It’s not that small woofers can’t play low, it’s how hard they fall off trying to play low, especially with limited xmax due to spider sizes on smaller woofers and resonance efficiency factors.

And if you tune small woofers too low to try to play low, you’ll lose a lot of output. Just depends on what you consider low.

I don't disagree with your statement but for daily listening a good box goes a long way.

I wish I would've built the dd 6.5 bandpass box you designed for me. I got busy with work and ended up going an entirely different route.

Which I'm selling that set of subs and box tomorrow assuming the buyer doesn't back out. Don't know what I want next. Might try 8s. Might do 4 sa6.5s don't know yet. I do know the dd d5.1500 will be replaced with some kind of mini amp as it's just physically too big for my application.

First thing is new tweeters ended up crossing a mid a tweet rca and the tweeter didn't like 63-2600hz my mistake. One of the downsides of running active.
 
I don't disagree with your statement but for daily listening a good box goes a long way.

I wish I would've built the dd 6.5 bandpass box you designed for me. I got busy with work and ended up going an entirely different route.

Which I'm selling that set of subs and box tomorrow assuming the buyer doesn't back out. Don't know what I want next. Might try 8s. Might do 4 sa6.5s don't know yet. I do know the dd d5.1500 will be replaced with some kind of mini amp as it's just physically too big for my application.

First thing is new tweeters ended up crossing a mid a tweet rca and the tweeter didn't like 63-2600hz my mistake. One of the downsides of running active.

Those trucks are hard to get loud if you are a true basshead without a blow through or backseat removal. Unfortunately 4 - nice 8's on good power is your best choice.
 
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