OK nevermind I just researched old threads and found one from 2018 that pretty much summed up exactly what I thought so no need reply on this when I get to my regular computer not my phone il figure out how to remove it all together thank youWhat are the break in periods for subs say 12 inch 1000watt rms?
******** all around. If your subs are breaking it's because they were poorly built and/or you over-powered them and not because you didn't perform some magic ritual.Some subs are so soft, it really doesn't matter.
Some subs like DD, some of these bigger box woofers, they have quite a break in process, and they get significantly louder over time. Example wise, the DD 9500's sometimes take a month or two of daily usage to actually break in. It's quite a massive difference.
So, some woofers it's very important to break in. If you don't, you can over-stress glued parts and the spider material itself. You can rip the spider, you can cause parts to become un-glued from their locations, like where the spider attaches to the spider landing on the basket. If that spider is super stiff and the sub has a strong motor, and you give it a ton of power, the spider stiffness can actually make the spider pull right off the basket. Like I say, it depends on the woofer.
Box design really helps the woofer to control itself. If your box allows your woofer to load well, you can generally be a little harder on it, because the box is controlling the cone movement, so it doesn't over-travel (xmax/xmech wise) before it softens up.
******** all around. If your subs are breaking it's because they were poorly built and/or you over-powered them and not because you didn't perform some magic ritual.
The most dramatic shift in TS parameters on those super stiff suspensions happens in under an hour play time and then is very gradual eventually staying about the same. Shifts may or may not be favorable for gaining 10ths and they should prove to be well under 1dB (inaudible!). You're not gaining a deeb from 10-15% shift in Fs, Qts or Vas.
PM me and I can pass you some TS parameter data from some subs I built a few years ago, whenever I get my new parts in I can pull specs again before I scrap those softparts.
******** all around. If your subs are breaking it's because they were poorly built and/or you over-powered them and not because you didn't perform some magic ritual.
The most dramatic shift in TS parameters on those super stiff suspensions happens in under an hour play time and then is very gradual eventually staying about the same. Shifts may or may not be favorable for gaining 10ths and they should prove to be well under 1dB (inaudible!). You're not gaining a deeb from 10-15% shift in Fs, Qts or Vas.
PM me and I can pass you some TS parameter data from some subs I built a few years ago, whenever I get my new parts in I can pull specs again before I scrap those softparts.
Why couldn't parts be manufactured in a way that doesn't require breakin? Why don't manufacturers break in drivers/parts before sending them out the door? Sounds like that would eliminate a lot of warranty claims and improve their reputation.Because what happens is that people who aren't familiar with audio get their subs, and they try to beat the crap out of them immediately across a wide bandwidth. I've seen people blow subs from not letting them break in. I don't remember all facts of every system that did that, but a lot of times it's higher powered woofers that are really stiff. If you get a brand new woofer, especially a high powered one, and you immediately go try to drop below 30 hz on full tilt, that usually results in problems. That's one way we would try to keep inexperienced people from blowing their subs; you set the subsonic artificially high, and get them to come back in a few weeks or so and you can drop down that subsonic to where it ultimately should be.
Woofers can blow because the coil isn't moving enough to cool itself inside of the motor. So, when your woofer is really stiff, it basically doesn't move enough on the low notes, and that causes excessive heat buildup in the coil. Coil movement is essential to cooling, in specific situations. If the woofer was broken in, say in a box for it, the excursion on xxxx amount of watts will tend to be much greater as the woofer breaks in, especially on the low notes. Without that movement, the coil heats up a ton, unnecessarily and dangerously so, in some cases. But there's a ton of factors to that, it's very hard to blame any system failure specifically on one item; audio is complicated, many things can cause issues.
You've gotta let some of these woofers stretch out themselves, before you go super hard on them. I've just seen it happen like a playbook. You know when a customer is going to blow a new sub, you can just see it in their eyes that they are not going to listen about your advice about break in. We've had people literally come back an hour or two later with blown subs lol. These were good systems, good electrical, good boxes, good signal, etc. Maybe their songs were bad quality, but it probably had more to do with the volume knob.