XXX Prob**help**

[bcarpenterfhl 10+ year member]

if your amps turning off, its definitely a groud or remote wire issue. make sure you sanded of all paint from the ground spot, and strip a good inch of the insulation off the remote wire off, fold and bundle it up (to make it bigger), then put it back in your amp.

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

well its the same ground i used with my viper the whole time and i used it with the amp now for a couple weeks and its fine, i did add the ground of the front speaker amp to the same spot, is that bad?

 

[mega1268 10+ year member]

Maybe it is the remote wire..... the Amp could be turning off and on. I know with my viper amp when it turns on it popped just from turning it on. And u said it looks like it was cut. try fixing that first

 

[FAM4LIFE 10+ year member]

Right. Check amp connections but also check the sub. When I first got my RE HC, one of the voice coils was not soldered well and it would cut in and out. It even came unsoldered. After a re-solder it performed flawlessly. Oh. yeah, it was sending my amp into protect because of the loose coil.

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

its there a way i can tell about the voice soil without taking the sub out? i dont feel like taking it out, i tested the ohms and it ran at 1.5ohms, isnt the right due to imdependance rise? and i also played some songs with the sub unhooked, i didnt see the amp cut off, or did i see it cut out when playing tones using my dmm, it stayed constant the whole time, then i tried moving the remote wire, and it did n othing, kept on playing fine, how do you check to see if its a good ground or not? can i use a volt meter to check power from amp and use the other stick and put it on my ground? with the truck off i got 12.3v at the amp, and i really dont want to hook the sub back up because if it blows, im out because my SX is gone

 

[chinny 5,000+ posts]

:::Try to get diff grounds for your front amp:::... make sure you sand the ground spot until u see the chasis is clear... sand till u can see ur face on it like a mirror if you have to, its not a problem with the sub... looks more like an amp problem like every 1 has been saying above

 

[zachzchw 5,000+ posts]

Try to get diff grounds for your front amp...

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif You really are a stupid fvck.

Its best to use one ground for all of the amps, reduces possibilities of noise coming into the system.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

People sure jump at the opportunity to act like an ******* around here. ^

If the speaker's coils still read an impedance, you do not have a shorted coil. I believe the problem you are describing sounds like a voltage issue. The system draws too much current, the amp shuts down due to a low voltage situation.

You need to watch your system voltage with the sub playing. If you are just concerned this is all above your head and you might destroy your new sub, just take it to a local shop and have them look it over. This doesn't sound like a hard problem to diagnose, for someone there in person (not thru a computer).

 

[chinny 5,000+ posts]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif You really are a stupid fvck.Its best to use one ground for all of the amps, reduces possibilities of noise coming into the system.

:flame on:

stfu scammer... can u detect sarcasm? no? then stfu and gtfo my ***.

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

but it was working fine till i put the new amp in, so im going to look at it some more, but i dont see why it started doing this , but whether the sub is hooked up or not it will take the voltage from the system wont it? its not cuttiing out now, so i really dont kn ow,, im off to work now so be back latewr tonight

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

but it was working fine till i put the new amp in, so im going to look at it some more, but i dont see why it started doing this , but whether the sub is hooked up or not it will take the voltage from the system wont it? its not cuttiing out now, so i really dont kn ow,, im off to work now so be back latewr tonight

I just went back and re-read your first post. The part where you said "i tried it again at 17/40 and after a couple secs it poped again and came back on" is a very telling comment. This tells me your problem is not a shorted coil or melted tinsel lead (the most common shorts/electrical issues in a sub). Think about it, if the coil shorted out, the sub wouldn't come back on no matter what the volume control was set at. If a tinsel lead is melted in half, well same thing. The fact the sub cuts out but then comes back on when messing with the volume control tells me this is an electrical issue, not a mechanical failure within the speaker itself. The speaker is merely demonstrating the problem, as its the final link in the signal chain (in other words it outputs a noise for a problem upstream of it).

The fact that adjusting the volume lower made the sub 'pop' back on leads me to believe the amp is the culprit here. 1) Amp is drawing too much current, there by lowering the system voltage to a point that the amp goes into protection mode and shuts off until such a time as the voltage rises back to an acceptable level (like when the amp cuts off and you turn th volume down), or 2) the sub is showing the amplifier an impedance lower than it is stable for, which would also create a situation where the amp would go into protection when driven too hard, or 3) there is a wiring problem that is intensified when the bass vibrates the crap outta everything (like a lose wire that shorts against nearest metal surface when the bass vibrates it all), or 4) who knows, alot of other possibilities, but doesn't sound liek the speaker to me.

edit: btw you also said you turned the amp up a little when showing off to your friend. If you meant the gains, that's a real no-no. If you cannot get the output you want out of your system with the proper settings (especially amplifier gains), then you need a new setup, not to crank your gains. With the gains set properly, you can/will get the full output potential from your sub without distortion (or a minimal amount). If you crank your gains for more output, 1) you either didn't have them set correctly to begin with, shame on you, or 2) had them set correctly before, but now are sending a squared signal to your sub(s) thanks to cranking the gain higher, shame on you again. Set that gain correctly and leave it alone! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[zachzchw 5,000+ posts]

:flame on:
stfu scammer... can u detect sarcasm? no? then stfu and gtfo my ***.

Right, Im a scammer. And you were sarcastic when you said to find new grounds....Nice cover up though.

Audioholic's right- definitely sounds like it could be a voltage thing causing the amp to go into protect. Recheck ALL of the wiring.

Do you have a protect light on the amp? Does it come on when the sub goes off and then "pops"?

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

well, that reminds me that day i installed my friends L5 and my old viper into his 02 F-250, well we get done and i guess the battery went dead because we had the hood and doors open and we walked inside for a little bit, but ame back out ands his bat was dead, or in his case he has 2 huge batteries, so i had to jump him off, do you think that would of took alot of my power?

and it wont draw the same voltage with the sub un hooked will it ?

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

bump

 

[bamaboy 5,000+ posts]

i hooked it back up again it plays fine, but i never turned it past 11/40 so i dont know about to much voltage, but im still wondering if it was because i jump started my friends big F250, he has 2 big batteries in there stock, so do you think that could of killed my volts because with the sub unhooked, i played volume at 25 and the volts never got below 13.5