Xtreme box building techniques

weight isn't an issue. I'm gonna be having air ride installed on the car sometime very soon.
I've always thought that lattice bracing would restrict air flow because of how much material is used to do the bracing...
If done properly, then no. I cannot think of a high end loudspeaker or subwoofer that does not employ extensive lattice bracing as the main means to strengthen the enclosure. And I'm talking about Hi-Fi, in which turbulence is far more important than in car audio subwoofers. For example:

ArtDecoSubBracing.jpg


centre_brace.jpg


06_support.jpg


BracingAngled.jpg


cabinetry.jpg


Also note that almost none of these are built using screws.

 
its not worth it man. u found ways that work for u i guess and i have found mine. BUT to entertain u here goes. resin IS NOT brittle. i have a peice in my back yard that is about an 1/8 thick and is very hard to break. it doesnt just snap with ease. and goop is amazingly strong, i have tested a DRIED and cured bead of it and the bead was about 1/4 thick, i literally could not pull it apart. im telling u man with glue, then screws, then resin then goop. theres no air or anything for that matter gonna break my boxes. there buillt like tanks.
You're right it isn't worth it, because while I'm trying to teach you something about physics and chemistry in speaker design and industry, you're talking about what happens to work for you.

 
If done properly, then no. I cannot think of a high end loudspeaker or subwoofer that does not employ extensive lattice bracing as the main means to strengthen the enclosure. And I'm talking about Hi-Fi, in which turbulence is far more important than in car audio subwoofers. For example:
ArtDecoSubBracing.jpg


centre_brace.jpg


06_support.jpg


BracingAngled.jpg


cabinetry.jpg


Also note that almost none of these are built using screws.
I know I would break something in there.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
I know I would break something in there.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
You have a wall; this doesn't apply to you brah //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
 
You have a wall; this doesn't apply to you brah //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
I've used 12k in a street application box. I would break something in the examples you posted.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
I was lucky enough to spend some time with some transducer engineer's

when I was in Brittan and we did turbulance testing with clear enclosures

having several types of internal bracing with the use of smoke

it was very interesting........

glue only holds the outer skin of MDF....I have tested this theory with a hammer and I

have found that screws and corner bracing work very well

personally I would make all my enclosures with hardwood instead of MDF but it's to much $$$

 
company online wants $87 per sheet of 5'x5' 13ply baltic birch. Does that sound average or on the high side? I thought this stuff was in the $60 range max?

 
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