WOOFER PLACEMENT IN 3 WAY SYSTEM

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

My door speaker cutout is only 5.1 inches. Most of the good aftermarket speakers are 5.7-5.7 inches, and the big name aftermarket 5.25s like Kicker, JBL, and Alpine are all over priced and underwhelming with terrible mid bass and below performance even on a 4 channel. Spent $90 on JBL 5 1/4 components and they sound alright I guess but I've heard cheaper coaxial speakers that sound better. Not tryna spend more than $150ish for the whole set up.

Vehicle is a 96 C1500. It has tweeters in the arm rest in the door but I plan on unplugging them cause I like my tweeters in phase with my mids not pointed straight at my face from my arm rest and I really don't feel like setting up another set of components that **** is annoying any time i convince myself to go for em for whatever reason.

Was thinking about going with A nice set of 6x4s in the rear pillars and cross them around 250hz up, then put some Dayton audio 5.25 woofers in the front doors with silicone baffles and CLD sheets, cross them 60hz to 300ish hz for mid bass.

I know you're supposed to have your tweeter as close to and on phase as much as possible to the midwoofer when it's a 2 way component set. Should I expect any weird anomalies or imaging issues by setting up a 3 way like this? Never done a 3 way speaker system (woofer, mid, tweeter)

Study acoustic lobing:

Acoustic lobing - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

Example:

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Does anyone make kick pods for that truck for 6.5's? Just a thought.

I only like in front of me sound for mids and highs and I've had my front tweeter and 6.5 like 12" apart and it still sounded good, both in the door. Like as long as your tweeters at least reflect sound to you or like aren't pointed directly away from you, like you'd probably have to care about sound a bunch to notice big enough differences to care. I've heard plenty of tweeters up higher, like even up in the A pillars, and mids in doors sound fine with absolutely no manual time alignment or anything, just a basic component crossover, usually whatever it comes with.

 

[mr roo]

1995-1999 Silverado | Custom Speaker Pods

customspeakerpods.com

Q Logic Enclosures

www.qlogicenclosures.com

Lots of ways to get larger midbass up front but I think a 6.5 fits in the doors fairly easily.

 

[Blackout67]

Sorry for reviving this dead thread, but I've got a new question:

What if I went with a coaxial driver in the door and then in the factory tweeter location a small like 2 inch mid high passed at like 250hz and have it roll-off naturally into the highs? The tweeter location is much more on axis than the factory door speaker location.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Sorry for reviving this dead thread, but I've got a new question:

What if I went with a coaxial driver in the door and then in the factory tweeter location a small like 2 inch mid high passed at like 250hz and have it roll-off naturally into the highs? The tweeter location is much more on axis than the factory door speaker location.

It's nearly impossible for a 2" driver to play that low, more like 500 hz or higher. Two problems arise, one is Fs, the ther is the other end (ell 3 if you count power). Not very many play nearly that low and if they do, not able to take any power and the roll off that you speak of, may include peaks and undesirable resonant frequencies (breakup).

I't a chore for a 3" let alone a 2" driver. Even with a 3" is will require a specific sized sealed chamber most likely to allow that low of a response with any power handling or controlled output capability.

this will get you close.

CDT Audio ES-02A

- OR -

CDT Audio Unity 8.0P WB Driver Pod

I would NOT run dual high frequency anything. Dual high frequency drivers really mess with the soundstage, not a desirable effect on or off axis.

These tweeters have exceptional off axis performance.

CDT Audio ES-1200iS

https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/images/products/components/tweeters/ES-1200iS%20%20axis-off-axis%20advantages-5-23.pdf

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Sorry for reviving this dead thread, but I've got a new question:

What if I went with a coaxial driver in the door and then in the factory tweeter location a small like 2 inch mid high passed at like 250hz and have it roll-off naturally into the highs? The tweeter location is much more on axis than the factory door speaker location.

It may be worth trying? CDT has some nice 2 inch speakers to choose from. Im not sure that a 2" will fit in that existing door tweeter location? Ive gotten a 1" tweeter to fit fine with some patience. Ive had better luck using pods/tweeter pods and other pods on the dash. Hot glue worked to keep in place as well as Extreme Velcro in the past with wires tucked in the crevice oif the dash down to the Kick panels where Id place the Crossovers or under the dash to get some air zip tied to keep them cooler. May be worth a try. You could still place the tweeter back in place if you didnt like it, and the mid /tweeter could be utilized in another location later. ?? Ive never tried that. Always placed components in the doors and mids in doors,Mids in Kicks and tweets in A-pillars and dash and existing locations up to 1" . never tried fitr a 2" in that tweeter location. Here are some to take a look at even and maybe on the site of the Monthly Specials?>These are Hybrids that may be of interest?

CDT Audio ES-02A

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Ive even used top mounted door pods to get a set of deeper 6.5s in and added the tweets there even for a component set that worked out pretty good, placed the Xovers behind the kick panels. Ive never liked placing passives inside the doors on on the doors. Example here and are now cheaper than when they first came out on the market. Ive made some out of fiberglass that Ive kept and still use from time to time. I know you do not want to do components, but it just opens up some other speaker options for you as well

6 1/2" 6.5" CWT SPEAKER ADAPTERS SPACER SPEAKER MOUNTS CUSTOM SPACERS DOOR PANEL | eBay

The pods in the pics are smooth finish and have been painted. All are pods are top mountable for ease of install and a professional look. What’s Included in the Box: One pair of Universal Component Speaker Pod Enclosures.

www.ebay.com

 

[Blackout67]

It's nearly impossible for a 2" driver to play that low, more like 500 hz or higher. Two problems arise, one is Fs, the ther is the other end (ell 3 if you count power). Not very many play nearly that low and if they do, not able to take any power and the roll off that you speak of, may include peaks and undesirable resonant frequencies (breakup).

I't a chore for a 3" let alone a 2" driver. Even with a 3" is will require a specific sized sealed chamber most likely to allow that low of a response with any power handling or controlled output capability.

this will get you close.

CDT Audio ES-02A

- OR -

CDT Audio Unity 8.0P WB Driver Pod

I would NOT run dual high frequency anything. Dual high frequency drivers really mess with the soundstage, not a desirable effect on or off axis.

These tweeters have exceptional off axis performance.

CDT Audio ES-1200iS

https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/images/products/components/tweeters/ES-1200iS%20%20axis-off-axis%20advantages-5-23.pdf

Yea 250hz is pretty wishful thinking. I was more thinking how portable Bluetooth speakers get decent mid bass but I always forget most of them are super specialized for the tiny enclosure they are in and usually use PRs


So that's would be a no then for using the mid-range?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Does anyone make kick pods for that truck for 6.5's? Just a thought.

I only like in front of me sound for mids and highs and I've had my front tweeter and 6.5 like 12" apart and it still sounded good, both in the door. Like as long as your tweeters at least reflect sound to you or like aren't pointed directly away from you, like you'd probably have to care about sound a bunch to notice big enough differences to care. I've heard plenty of tweeters up higher, like even up in the A pillars, and mids in doors sound fine with absolutely no manual time alignment or anything, just a basic component crossover, usually whatever it comes with.

LOL. Started to say. Ive had a few sets of the Q logics. Kind of expensive for what they are. I ended up with surface door pods and made some out of F.Glass later on, and bought a set of door panels at a Yard and cut those as needed to add ect. and kept my existing to replace back to STOCK if ever wanted too. Same with A-Pillars

 

[Blackout67]

It may be worth trying? CDT has some nice 2 inch speakers to choose from. Im not sure that a 2" will fit in that existing door tweeter location? Ive gotten a 1" tweeter to fit fine with some patience. Ive had better luck using pods/tweeter pods and other pods on the dash. Hot glue worked to keep in place as well as Extreme Velcro in the past with wires tucked in the crevice oif the dash down to the Kick panels where Id place the Crossovers or under the dash to get some air zip tied to keep them cooler. May be worth a try. You could still place the tweeter back in place if you didnt like it, and the mid /tweeter could be utilized in another location later. ?? Ive never tried that. Always placed components in the doors and mids in doors,Mids in Kicks and tweets in A-pillars and dash and existing locations up to 1" . never tried fitr a 2" in that tweeter location. Here are some to take a look at even and maybe on the site of the Monthly Specials?>These are Hybrids that may be of interest?

CDT Audio ES-02A

Well the previous owner replaced the door speakers and ditched the tweeter all together so its now empty.

I saw a guy fit Infinity Primus in that tweeter location flush mounted and they have a 1.6 inch frame diameter. I might be able to get a small framed 2 inch speaker on there. It's made out of thin plastic too so it'd be easy to replace.

Customspeakerpods too too much money for the product. Understand the R&D part but you can get 3/4 MDF enclosures for all kinds of combinations of different speakers sized that mount to your door for cheaper

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Yea 250hz is pretty wishful thinking. I was more thinking how portable Bluetooth speakers get decent mid bass but I always forget most of them are super specialized for the tiny enclosure they are in and usually use PRs


So that's would be a no then for using the mid-range?

I barely get to that 250-300 hz mark and that was with a 3" driver, in a specialized .5L (Vb) pod, so yeah, that is a stretch for sure. If you can get the 2" widbands rom CDT to fit, might get you close.

 

[Blackout67]

I barely get to that 250-300 hz mark and that was with a 3" driver, in a specialized .5L (Vb) pod, so yeah, that is a stretch for sure. If you can get the 2" widbands rom CDT to fit, might get you close.

What about the coaxs you sent earlier in the post? I took a look at them and they peaked my interest with that super low FS. But they don't have integrated crossovers for the tweeters? How would I make a crossover for the tweeter?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

What about the coaxs you sent earlier in the post? I took a look at them and they peaked my interest with that super low FS. But they don't have integrated crossovers for the tweeters? How would I make a crossover for the tweeter?

which coax are you referring to?

 

[Blackout67]

which coax are you referring to?

The ones off Madisound

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Well the previous owner replaced the door speakers and ditched the tweeter all together so its now empty.

I saw a guy fit Infinity Primus in that tweeter location flush mounted and they have a 1.6 inch frame diameter. I might be able to get a small framed 2 inch speaker on there. It's made out of thin plastic too so it'd be easy to replace.

Customspeakerpods too too much money for the product. Understand the R&D part but you can get 3/4 MDF enclosures for all kinds of combinations of different speakers sized that mount to your door for cheaper

Understood. Ive even used PVC caps in the past. Cheap enough and primed and painted they looked and worked great as well for very little spent.
There are some little slits/cut outs on the plastic that holds that existing screen cover in place. Just keep an eye on that if cutting the plastics out. I found it easier to heat up a box blade/knife to cut with if I didnt use my Dremel or RotoZip.
Are your doors sealed or have any deadner on them at all? Mine have two layers of 80 mill on the face and one inside both panels. I did both my 98s like that. world of difference man.Very happy I did that,
Maybe you could fit a 2" in there?? Possibile? Maybe find something equivalent of the speaker and see before purchased?