Will this amp work with two 12" W7 ?

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

stop comparing capacitors to band aids, thats an insult to band aids, because band aids actually help. Capacitors are like spitting on a stab wound hoping it'll just heal on its own. Batteries are more like band aids. Alternator is the doctor/surgeon, lithiums are the hot nurses that keep morale up.

Depends upon type of capacitor used. You and I know there's junk ones on the market. There's no need for one once the electrical is strong i.e: better battery, possibly HO alt, depending upon OP's budget, and def big 3.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Okay I'm going with a single ZCON 12 in a ported box..and 2 pairs of Hertz HSK 165 speakers to go with it . pioneer H/U and stinger roadkill for sound deadening. right now I already have 2 PA amps installed in the car , BAMF5500/1D and BAMF1600/4D .. are these amps really that bad that I shouldn't use them with these speakers / sub? will i hear a noticeable difference ? ..planning to drive door speakers at 4ohms & sub at 2ohms

Yes those amps are crap. If you get a proper box built for that z-con you won't be disappointed. You might consider the new SSA amp to power that sub if you're aiming to replace your amps. Definitely take the advice about worrying only about upgrading/amping front speakers, and you really will want a second battery and/or high output alternator to run legit 2KW amp, throw the capacitor up on Craigslist along with those PA amps and get what you can out of them.

 

[mb.kompre55]

Yes those amps are crap. If you get a proper box built for that z-con you won't be disappointed. You might consider the new SSA amp to power that sub if you're aiming to replace your amps. Definitely take the advice about worrying only about upgrading/amping front speakers, and you really will want a second battery and/or high output alternator to run legit 2KW amp, throw the capacitor up on Craigslist along with those PA amps and get what you can out of them.

im going with an ICON 12 .. the rear doors have some crappy coaxial speakers that were installed by the previous owner and I want to scrap the whole system. wouldn't i be better off with at least a pair of decent 6.5" midrange woofers in the rear doors vs. no speakers at all? i had a 1600w system in this same model car before without any power issues its an older e-class with big euro battery in the trunk and a good bosch alternator . ran 2 RF amps pushing two 12" subs @ 600w each and each door speaker @ 100w rms

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I don't forsee a problem with speakers in the rear doors....I have the same. But...as others have stated, a lot of your sound comes from up front. I'm sure your passengers would appreciate a little tunes back there also.

 

[mb.kompre55]

looks pretty good but you dont really need to spend anything on rears, you can just keep the rears stock on head unit power and focus everything on the front, rears are a complete waste of time, money and power that screws up sound quality as well. Its way better if you ditch the passive crossovers on those hsks and run active network crossovers with that pioneer head unit and give full power to the mid and tweet. Their 125 watt rating is a joke, they handle way more power than that and will sound way better/get way louder.

thanks for the advice on the rears ..i do want a more "full" sound ..im thinking to put a pair of Beyma Pro6mi 6.5" midbass speakers in the rear doors ..

also, to power the sub im thinking about a Hifonics ELITE ZEX1350.1D ...its way cheaper than the alpine pdx I wanted to get and seems to be a good amp ..thoughts on this amp & the beymas for the rear doors?

im interested in the active crossovers you mentioned ...which would you recommend?

finding the time to research and find the parts for this build in between work has been..a challenge //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif ..appreciate everyones help with just want to get the system right and be happy with the outcome as i will be keeping this one for a while

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

thanks for the advice on the rears ..i do want a more "full" sound ..im thinking to put a pair of Beyma Pro6mi 6.5" midbass speakers in the rear doors .. also, to power the sub im thinking about a Hifonics ELITE ZEX1350.1D ...its way cheaper than the alpine pdx I wanted to get and seems to be a good amp ..thoughts on this amp & the beymas for the rear doors?

im interested in the active crossovers you mentioned ...which would you recommend?

finding the time to research and find the parts for this build in between work has been..a challenge //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif ..appreciate everyones help with just want to get the system right and be happy with the outcome as i will be keeping this one for a while

hifonics is garbage, stay clear away. Again you are just wasting money for sh*tty results with rears. You can put that money into a proper amp instead. The full sound comes from properly powered and installed front speakers. You obviously never heard a properly done front stage imagine literally seeing the whole band/artist on stage right in front of your dash and you can see where each instrument is and if the singer is walking left or right all through sound, its next level stuff and you'll never achieve it if you have any kind of rear speaker action it totally destroys it 1000% gone completely destroyed.

A properly done front stage sounds more full and detailed than any front + rear combo you can ever imagine plus there's legit sound stage. Its not just sound quality, you can literally hear the system several football fields away, keep up with a giant subwoofer system and still impress the audiophile thats how REAL sound systems are done and none of them involve rear speakers.

 

[mb.kompre55]

hifonics is garbage, stay clear away. Again you are just wasting money for sh*tty results with rears. You can put that money into a proper amp instead. The full sound comes from properly powered and installed front speakers. You obviously never heard a properly done front stage imagine literally seeing the whole band/artist on stage right in front of your dash and you can see where each instrument is and if the singer is walking left or right all through sound, its next level stuff and you'll never achieve it if you have any kind of rear speaker action it totally destroys it 1000% gone completely destroyed.
A properly done front stage sounds more full and detailed than any front + rear combo you can ever imagine plus there's legit sound stage. Its not just sound quality, you can literally hear the system several football fields away, keep up with a giant subwoofer system and still impress the audiophile thats how REAL sound systems are done and none of them involve rear speakers.

point taken lol . okay so i'll go with a pair of Hertz HSK 165 in the front doors and icon 12 in a ported box. Alpine PDX-M12 1200w rms mono amp and ALPINE MRV-F300 amp (150w x 2)

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

point taken lol . okay so i'll go with a pair of Hertz HSK 165 in the front doors and icon 12 in a ported box. Alpine PDX-M12 1200w rms mono amp and ALPINE MRV-F300 amp (150w x 2)

there are many other amps besides alpine., they ok depends how much they are, if $400 or more for both u can get other decent amps for around that price..

 

[mb.kompre55]

there are many other amps besides alpine., they ok depends how much they are, if $400 or more for both u can get other decent amps for around that price..

I'm spending $700 total on the 2 alpine amps ..the alpine amps have some features that I like but if I wouldn't mind saving $300 for the same quality amps .. i need recommendations though because i really wouldn't know where to look ...i was looking at taramps and crescendo amps but theyre not really cheaper than the alpines and put out a lot more power than what I need

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

I'm spending $700 total on the 2 alpine amps ..the alpine amps have some features that I like but if I wouldn't mind saving $300 for the same quality amps .. i need recommendations though because i really wouldn't know where to look ...i was looking at taramps and crescendo amps but theyre not really cheaper than the alpines and put out a lot more power than what I need

this or us acoustic mike for sub amp Twisted Sounds TS1.3KW 1300w Monoblock Amplifier - SSA STORE couple others on ssa., and this for mids or couple others on ssa Twisted Sounds TS95.4 600w 4 Channel Amplifier - SSA STORE or if u want 2 channel look for that, don't think anyone will say alpines better than ts..

 

[mb.kompre55]

this or us acoustic mike for sub amp Twisted Sounds TS1.3KW 1300w Monoblock Amplifier - SSA STORE couple others on ssa., and this for mids or couple others on ssa Twisted Sounds TS95.4 600w 4 Channel Amplifier - SSA STORE or if u want 2 channel look for that, don't think anyone will say alpines better than ts..

i ordered a set of HSK 165XL speakers today front the front doors .. no speakers for the rear doors so i only need a 2ch amp. i can run the 4ch amp bridged but twisted sounds amp puts out 280w x 2 which will be too much for 165xl's ? theyre rated at 150w rms but ive heard they can handle alot more but not sure if 280 is too high

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

I came for the hot nurses.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='mb.kompre55']i ordered a set of HSK 165XL speakers today front the front doors .. no speakers for the rear doors so i only need a 2ch amp. i can run the 4ch amp bridged but twisted sounds amp puts out 280w x 2 which will be too much for 165xl's ? theyre rated at 150w rms but ive heard they can handle alot more but not sure if 280 is too high[/QUOTE]
thats a @Jeffdachef question but u could get a nice 150-200x2 amp don't have to be same brand., most peeps here use 2 brands.. 2 channel would be lot easier to install than bridging the 4 channel.. i'll look around in few mins..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

i ordered a set of HSK 165XL speakers today front the front doors .. no speakers for the rear doors so i only need a 2ch amp. i can run the 4ch amp bridged but twisted sounds amp puts out 280w x 2 which will be too much for 165xl's ? theyre rated at 150w rms but ive heard they can handle alot more but not sure if 280 is too high

people throw 300 watts + to the hsk series regularly Also just because its 280 watts doesnt mean you need to use all 280 watts. It doesnt work that way the actual amount of watts your speakers see depends on a large variety of factors and more often then not, you'll never get close to the amount of wattage on the amp's sticker due to how music works.

More often then not you have people with not enough power turning it up/overdriving the amp and getting a dirty signal which leads to distortion, clipping and blown speakers.

Now, the reason why you'd want a 4 channel is because you want to eventually ditch the passive crossover on the hsk set and run active on that pioneer head unit you have. Why? Because passive crossover is a set crossover point, it might not work well with your car's acoustics and it limits actual power the speakers see.

When going active network the tweeter and mid are plugged straight to the amp's channels and all the crossovers are done on the head unit to get the perfect smooth blend between mid and tweeter and they both get ample amounts of wattage. This may sound over your head but its how people achieve sound quality magic rather than shoving a pair of components in the doors and praying to god the passive crossover does the job.

 

[mb.kompre55]

people throw 300 watts + to the hsk series regularly Also just because its 280 watts doesnt mean you need to use all 280 watts. It doesnt work that way the actual amount of watts your speakers see depends on a large variety of factors and more often then not, you'll never get close to the amount of wattage on the amp's sticker due to how music works.
More often then not you have people with not enough power turning it up/overdriving the amp and getting a dirty signal which leads to distortion, clipping and blown speakers.

Now, the reason why you'd want a 4 channel is because you want to eventually ditch the passive crossover on the hsk set and run active on that pioneer head unit you have. Why? Because passive crossover is a set crossover point, it might not work well with your car's acoustics and it limits actual power the speakers see.

When going active network the tweeter and mid are plugged straight to the amp's channels and all the crossovers are done on the head unit to get the perfect smooth blend between mid and tweeter and they both get ample amounts of wattage. This may sound over your head but its how people achieve sound quality magic rather than shoving a pair of components in the doors and praying to god the passive crossover does the job.

thats awesome that they can take 300w rms each .. weird that they're rated at only 150w but ill throw more power at them since they can handle it.. i want to get this system right the first time around because i plan on keeping it

for a while, so if an active crossover will make a difference then i want to use it in this install. with an active crossover, i will need an amp for the tweeters, an amp for the mids and an amp for the sub , so a total of 3 amps ?