When you deadened your doors/car (sound dampened) did you notice a difference?

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

I want to get rid of all road noise and stop vibrations..so idk where to start

Deadener. I did 3 layers (20square feet per door)

and now I am adding acoustic foam and stuffing to the inside of the doors to eat up the volume and stop road noise.

keep_hope_alive used pink fiberglass insulation and just sealed the stuff in bags. and then put that in his doors.

Here is his build thread.

He starts deadening the doors on page 3.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long-3.html

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I want to get rid of all road noise and stop vibrations..so idk where to start

MLV that is de-coupled (with foam) from the vehicle metal acts as a great noise barrier. the MLV shouldn't be in contact with vehicle metal, but it needs 100% coverage for the entire floor, firewall, doors, and wheel arches. the toughest part is getting panels to fit again.

the deadening effort done by @jockhater2 will provide great results once he gets adequate speakers and amplification in there. absorption in the doors (as much as you can fit) will absorb the rear wave sound that would otherwise build up and come back out the speaker cone (and represent itself as phase interference).

the amount of deadener used (20sf per door) will allow for 100% coverage of the inner door metal which will improve transmission loss of the metal. while deadener does not need to be 100% coverage to be effective, it won't contribute to transmission loss (block noise/sound) without complete coverage. and, with patches you create nodes that result in many resonance frequencies.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I want to get rid of all road noise and stop vibrations..so idk where to start

MLV that is de-coupled (with foam) from the vehicle metal acts as a great noise barrier. the MLV shouldn't be in contact with vehicle metal, but it needs 100% coverage for the entire floor, firewall, doors, and wheel arches. the toughest part is getting panels to fit again.

the deadening effort done by @jockhater2 will provide great results once he gets adequate speakers and amplification in there. absorption in the doors (as much as you can fit) will absorb the rear wave sound that would otherwise build up and come back out the speaker cone (and represent itself as phase interference).

the amount of deadener used (20sf per door) will allow for 100% coverage of the inner door metal which will improve transmission loss of the metal. while deadener does not need to be 100% coverage to be effective, it won't contribute to transmission loss (block noise/sound) without complete coverage. and, with patches you create nodes that result in many resonance frequencies.

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

[quote name='keep_hope_alive']MLV that is de-coupled (with foam) from the vehicle metal acts as a great noise barrier. the MLV shouldn't be in contact with vehicle metal, but it needs 100% coverage for the entire floor, firewall, doors, and wheel arches. the toughest part is getting panels to fit again.

the deadening effort done by @jockhater2 will provide great results once he gets adequate speakers and amplification in there. absorption in the doors (as much as you can fit) will absorb the rear wave sound that would otherwise build up and come back out the speaker cone (and represent itself as phase interference).

the amount of deadener used (20sf per door) will allow for 100% coverage of the inner door metal which will improve transmission loss of the metal. while deadener does not need to be 100% coverage to be effective, it won't contribute to transmission loss (block noise/sound) without complete coverage. and, with patches you create nodes that result in many resonance frequencies.[/QUOTE]

You for the semi-colon after my name @keep_hope_alive ;

I thank you greatly for all of your help.
My doors have large gaps. So I was able to do about 75% plus of the inside of the door with 3 layers of the deadener. And the outer layer of the door. I also did 3 layers all the way around.

How come MLV can't be in contact with metal? How else would someone put that in there doors?

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

[quote name='keep_hope_alive']MLV that is de-coupled (with foam) from the vehicle metal acts as a great noise barrier. the MLV shouldn't be in contact with vehicle metal, but it needs 100% coverage for the entire floor, firewall, doors, and wheel arches. the toughest part is getting panels to fit again.

the deadening effort done by @jockhater2 will provide great results once he gets adequate speakers and amplification in there. absorption in the doors (as much as you can fit) will absorb the rear wave sound that would otherwise build up and come back out the speaker cone (and represent itself as phase interference).

the amount of deadener used (20sf per door) will allow for 100% coverage of the inner door metal which will improve transmission loss of the metal. while deadener does not need to be 100% coverage to be effective, it won't contribute to transmission loss (block noise/sound) without complete coverage. and, with patches you create nodes that result in many resonance frequencies.[/QUOTE]

You for the semi-colon after my name
@keep_hope_alive ;

I thank you greatly for all of your help.
My doors have large gaps. So I was able to do about 75% plus of the inside of the door with 3 layers of the deadener. And the outer layer of the door. I also did 3 layers all the way around.

How come MLV can't be in contact with metal? How else would someone put that in there doors?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

@jockhater2; MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is a 1 lb/sq. ft. noise barrier. as with all noise barriers, if it is contact with a surface, sound is easily transmitted through the two surfaces.

sound travels best through materials (metal, wood, etc.). the best sound insulator is air. an air gap between two surfaces greatly improves transmission loss (with a coincidence dip). foam acts as a barrier to prevent the MLV from contacting metal.

you apply MLV on the interior surfaces of the car - it is covered by carpet or panels. you don't use it inside doors.

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

[quote name='keep_hope_alive']@jockhater2; MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is a 1 lb/sq. ft. noise barrier. as with all noise barriers, if it is contact with a surface, sound is easily transmitted through the two surfaces.

sound travels best through materials (metal, wood, etc.). the best sound insulator is air. an air gap between two surfaces greatly improves transmission loss (with a coincidence dip). foam acts as a barrier to prevent the MLV from contacting metal.

you apply MLV on the interior surfaces of the car - it is covered by carpet or panels. you don't use it inside doors.[/QUOTE]

There you go @benbenondatrack ;
Don't use MLV for doors.
Just use deadener and fill the door with insulation.

I have to take my cars interior apart again when I run new wires for the mids/highs.

Would it be beneficial to put down some MLV under the carpeting?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

MLV on the interior door metal (between door metal and plastic panel) WILL help with road noise.

MLV under carpeting would help, but you would want to move the padding under the carpet to be under the MLV. modern automotive carpet (luxury) has MLV inherent in it. you see the padding and think it's absorption but it's just to decouple the carpet barrier.

note that the weakest link will be the dominant source for noise. door seals are poor and the largest sources for road noise. adding a second set of seals (with air between the factory seals) would do wonders. i'll do that on my Accord soon.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Holy CRAP! 20sqft a door.... WOW.

 

[butterMilk 10+ year member]

MLV on the interior door metal (between door metal and plastic panel) WILL help with road noise.
MLV under carpeting would help, but you would want to move the padding under the carpet to be under the MLV. modern automotive carpet (luxury) has MLV inherent in it. you see the padding and think it's absorption but it's just to decouple the carpet barrier.

note that the weakest link will be the dominant source for noise. door seals are poor and the largest sources for road noise. adding a second set of seals (with air between the factory seals) would do wonders. i'll do that on my Accord soon.

How do you add a second set of seals?

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

Holy CRAP! 20sqft a door.... WOW.

yeah. It took 3 hours a door. A lot of rolling and heat gun.

My right hand got numerous cuts

 

---------- Post added at 04:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:05 PM ----------

 

I didn't even think about that. I should redo my gaskets in my car. They are all 21 years old. cracked and fallen off in most places