When you deadened your doors/car (sound dampened) did you notice a difference?

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

How so?

I just did mine for the first time ever. I have never deadened or dampened my doors. But after I did mine. I think I did notice a difference.

I did 20 square feet on the front driver side and 20 on the front passenger side.

I still have to add the acoustic foam/stuff but I am waiting for it to get here.

I think I did notice a difference.

Click to read more...

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

20 feet each door, wow that is a lot.

Did you use sheet metal to cover up the large holes on the door?

Also putting 1" thick weather stripping around the speaker helps to seal it to the panel which really helps.

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

[quote name='>>SQL

Did you use sheet metal to cover up the large holes on the door?

Also putting 1" thick weather stripping around the speaker helps to seal it to the panel which really helps.[/quote']

I just followed keep_hope_alive's instructions.

He said he likes to do 20sq feet per door. and then he likes to fill the door with insulation.

I am following his directions.

And yeah. It was a lot. It took me about 5-6 hours total.

I will have to remember that. Because I am redoing my front stage. I have crappy coaxials right now. And will be putting in a new set up.

Where do you put the weather stripping around the speaker? the outer diameter of it?

 

[groundpound4200 5,000+ posts]

Ditch the Coax and I bet it gets even better... put the weather stripping on the mounting surface as a gasket

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

Ditch the Coax and I bet it gets even better... put the weather stripping on the mounting surface as a gasket

Sounds good! I will definitely do that!

Yeah I am switching to an audison lrx 6.9k

Morel mdt 29 tweets

dayton rs100 4" full ranges

dayton rs225 8" midbass

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

yeah mine improved. more midbass and sub bass from my stock sub

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Did the entire front doors completely.Prob mor than 20sq ft per dr..lol..Cleaned with alcohol, applied with the roller, then used heat gun and rolled again.did back wall, and flooring just past the sub box.need to do top, and finish rest of the floor up front.Big difference as to less road noise,and less door vibration,and alot better sound improvement as well.Nice to do if keeping the vehicle forever,or for quite some time,as it is/can become very time consuming, and an expense.I will never sell my truck, so worth all the time being spent, and money invested for good SQ..very happy with it

 

[butterMilk 10+ year member]

Ditch the Coax and I bet it gets even better... put the weather stripping on the mounting surface as a gasket

I think he meant to put it around the outer edge of the speaker, the weather striping would then touch door panel when you put it back on.

I think its suppose to reduce cancelation, im not 100% on that tho.

 

[Kingstroker 10+ year member]

I couldn't afford to do 20' per door but I did seal it up and get most of it(85%). If you seal your door with deadener, would you need a gasket for cancelling reflected sound?

 

[zako 10+ year member]

There is no need to cover bent surfaces since they don't resonate. For flat surfaces, it's usually sufficient to cover just the central section. For me 12.5 square feet of Dynamat xtreme/raammat was enough to treat both doors in a sedan. I covered maybe only 50% of area of the exterior skin and sealed off the mid section completely, followed by a layer of ccf to seal the mid section. This did make a difference in sound, but I don't know if this is because of treating doors or from upgrading speakers, which I replaced at the same time.

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

I think he meant to put it around the outer edge of the speaker, the weather striping would then touch door panel when you put it back on.
I think its suppose to reduce cancelation, im not 100% on that tho.

Yes put it around the outer edge of the speaker, it seals the speaker to the panel so the waves are forced out the speaker grill rather than the waves getting behind the panel which loses SPL and causes cancellation.

It is cheap, easy, and often overlooked.

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

Did the entire front doors completely.Prob mor than 20sq ft per dr..lol..Cleaned with alcohol, applied with the roller, then used heat gun and rolled again.did back wall, and flooring just past the sub box.need to do top, and finish rest of the floor up front.Big difference as to less road noise,and less door vibration,and alot better sound improvement as well.Nice to do if keeping the vehicle forever,or for quite some time,as it is/can become very time consuming, and an expense.I will never sell my truck, so worth all the time being spent, and money invested for good SQ..very happy with it

What improvement in bass did you notice?

I noticed with my crappy coaxial's that the door doesn't vibrate and resonate anymore.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

I think people think it's going to be dead quiet after doing doors. But deadener isn't for that. CCF and MLV are for the road noise. Deadener is for panel vibration/resonance. It's nice hearing that solid "thump" of closing a well deadened door though.

Sealing them and adding something behind the woofer is important too if you didn't already do that.

 

[-BenBen- 10+ year member]

I want to get rid of all road noise and stop vibrations..so idk where to start

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

I think people think it's going to be dead quiet after doing doors. But deadener isn't for that. CCF and MLV are for the road noise. Deadener is for panel vibration/resonance. It's nice hearing that solid "thump" of closing a well deadened door though.
Sealing them and adding something behind the woofer is important too if you didn't already do that.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Yes. I am adding acoustic foam and acoustic stuffing in the doors too.

I am following keep_hope_alive's advice to the T.