whats your view on eDead sound deadener?

[eb2phkingood 10+ year member]

The OP is a joke. Unfortunately, he might be someone's doctor in the future. Crap.
Of course, my age or employment status will make deadening deadner a good idea.

LOL at the nonexistent test on edead. Little does he know. We forgive you, for you know not what you spew.

ya im a joke. what facts have you came up with so far to back up what you have said? and secondly, how far off topic did you go? too tough to answer my original question? never said i was even going with edead, just stated i wanted opinions review on it. obv too deep for you to comprehend and answer tho

 

[eb2phkingood 10+ year member]

Bounce should recommend 20 dryer sheets for optimal softness

and you should recommend the number 1 products to every person on here. dont let anyone settle for 2nd best! we can ONLY have the best and obviously we can ALL afford it!

 

[eb2phkingood 10+ year member]

SIMPLE: rudy wants to make a bet, ill make a bet. we take a before test noise of the noise coming through my trunk from a distance of X. then we will line my car with a what i have now, damplifier, run the test. remove damplifier. then i'll buy edead, run the test. remove edead. line car with sds, run test. if his sds works BETTER than the edead and damplier $ for SOUND UNIT, thats right, money vs the % it dampens, then i will buy all the sds he put in my car or had me put in my car + 200$. if it does not, i get to keep the sound deadener.

record initial sound volume

line with X # of sq feet of damplifier

record final sound volume

repeat with edead

repeat with sds

calculate $ vs %.

so say 1.25$ per sq foot and a dampening percent from initial of 18%. then calculate each one out. if his is the best out of the 3, ill buy it all plus 200$ cash.

the winner will be decided by this comparison of $vs%.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

eDead or asphalt from Lowes, just go ahead and do multiple layers. it'll help when your car drops from 10ft. Have fun w/ those layers of ineffectiveness.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

oh i thought it was sound deadener. not sound deadener if you use it ONLY on vehicle applications. guess i was mistaken. you're going to slander the product based on no tests against edead?
My half a$$ test > than your non existent test with edead

ofc i know he is. i dont care if he is the owner of anything. if he doesnt have a test, he doesnt have a test. period. and he is saying my can test is bad????????? why is that? because the cheap stuff from lowes did JUST as good of a job as his expensive shyt in a SOUND DEADENING contest. i dont care if its a can, a car, or a tank. sound deadener should sound deaden. thus making the test of sound deadener applicable. UNLESS he states his sound deadener is ONLY for vehicle use, then i could understand why it does not work with the can and should not be purchased for anything but car applications.

Read this. It's not the complete book. but there is enough there to give you a basic understanding of the fundamentals involved.

Do you understand that "sound deadener" is vibration damper? Do you understand that measuring the amplitude of the sound of your Pepsi cans' impact on the ground is actually worse than no test at all since it isn't relevant to the objective of the treatment? It has nothing to do with "only working in cars".

Even if it were appropriate, your test is severely flawed, but it's not appropriate, so the details of the test mean nothing. My pennies to $100 bills test was every bit as valid as the test you used. Measuring the wrong thing will produce useless data, no mater how carefully you do it and no matter how superior you think you are to the people trying to explain a basic concept that seems beyond your grasp. Ask yourself why some companies will send you samples and others won't.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

Coconut-Audio

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

SIMPLE: rudy wants to make a bet, ill make a bet. we take a before test noise of the noise coming through my trunk from a distance of X. then we will line my car with a what i have now, damplifier, run the test. remove damplifier. then i'll buy edead, run the test. remove edead. line car with sds, run test. if his sds works BETTER than the edead and damplier $ for SOUND UNIT, thats right, money vs the % it dampens, then i will buy all the sds he put in my car or had me put in my car + 200$. if it does not, i get to keep the sound deadener.
record initial sound volume

line with X # of sq feet of damplifier

record final sound volume

repeat with edead

repeat with sds

calculate $ vs %.

so say 1.25$ per sq foot and a dampening percent from initial of 18%. then calculate each one out. if his is the best out of the 3, ill buy it all plus 200$ cash.

the winner will be decided by this comparison of $vs%.

So you want to use vibration damper as a barrier? Why?

 

[Cruzer 10+ year member]

sound deadener showdown might be just a bit more expensive than edead, but its worth it imo because u can use less.

i put 1 6x10 piece of cld tile on the back part of my crew cab truck, and it stopped all audible vibrations inside the cab. best $2.50 i spent...

 

[miker 5,000+ posts]

I haven't read more than the first page, and this last one.. But has the OP read anything about deadener? Do you have any idea how it works? You will gain little by double coating your entire car with eDead.

 

[groundpound4200 5,000+ posts]

i use edead for my license plates and thats about it. I had the first gen stuff and every bit of it fell off and smelled like ****. Then I bought the butyl stuff with the mylar back; it stuck but it didn't seem to do much. The constraining layer is worthless

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

ofc i know he is. i dont care if he is the owner of anything. if he doesnt have a test, he doesnt have a test. period. and he is saying my can test is bad????????? why is that? because the cheap stuff from lowes did JUST as good of a job as his expensive shyt in a SOUND DEADENING contest. i dont care if its a can, a car, or a tank. sound deadener should sound deaden. thus making the test of sound deadener applicable. UNLESS he states his sound deadener is ONLY for vehicle use, then i could understand why it does not work with the can and should not be purchased for anything but car applications.

The fact you used a dosimeter shows you dont understand the intended application of these mat dampers. As Don is trying to get across to you, if your intention is as a barrier (to block road noise, or contain music inside the vehicle), none of these products are a viable choice when considering price versus performance.

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

I was GIVEN a "roll" of eDead UE with the butyl adhesive and the black mylar layer AND there is NO WAY I would use that crap again. Despite the fact that I rubbed every panel with denatured alcohol and used a heat gun to apply my eDead, it still started to come off after a few months.

I never had that problem with Dynamat or Second Skin. I wish I could say SDS, but until now I've only used their butyl rope and closed cell foam, which again are great products. Of course, I will use SDS CLD tiles in my next vehicle!

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

SIMPLE: rudy wants to make a bet, ill make a bet. we take a before test noise of the noise coming through my trunk from a distance of X. then we will line my car with a what i have now, damplifier, run the test. remove damplifier. then i'll buy edead, run the test. remove edead. line car with sds, run test. if his sds works BETTER than the edead and damplier $ for SOUND UNIT, thats right, money vs the % it dampens, then i will buy all the sds he put in my car or had me put in my car + 200$. if it does not, i get to keep the sound deadener.
record initial sound volume

line with X # of sq feet of damplifier

record final sound volume

repeat with edead

repeat with sds

calculate $ vs %.

so say 1.25$ per sq foot and a dampening percent from initial of 18%. then calculate each one out. if his is the best out of the 3, ill buy it all plus 200$ cash.

the winner will be decided by this comparison of $vs%.

I really need to go into your proposal in a little more depth. In the first place, I would not sell (or give according to your terms) you enough vibration damper to line your trunk - that would be pointless. You obviously have no idea how difficult any of these products are to remove or you wouldn't suggest this change out plan so lightly. This is actually an important point. Your vehicle may be disposable, but most people should give some consideration to the possibility of future body work. Fully lining body panels with any of these products will not only make it difficult or impossible to accomplish, but insurance will not pay for the extra work. Making more permanent modifications to the vehicle than are required to accomplish the task is foolish.

I also have to wonder if I really did send you a sample kit. If I did, you would have received a CLD Tiles, a piece of MLV, a piece of CCF and some other doodads. While the products aren't self explanatory, the Web sit clearly explains what each material does. For your bet to make sense, you would want to include a barrier. The most important characteristic of a barrier is mass. Google "Mass Law" to see why. It's also important that the barrier be decoupled from the substrate and that it be limp. You could use any of the products being discussed to build up enough mass to block sound. This approach will always be less effective per unit of mass/area and more expensive than using a dedicated barrier.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Not to mention, whenever someone buys an eD product, God kills a kitten.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

Not to mention, whenever someone buys an eD product, God kills a kitten.

I heard they are under new management - your god is truly a vengeful god.