What subwoofers for the rockford fosgate t1500-1bdcp

[cparker2591]

so u do have the subs and again are the subs dual 2 ohm coils or dual 4 ohm coils? if d4 then u gotta stay at 1 ohm set gain low if d2 coils u can wire each sub to 4 ohms and amp will get 2 ohm load..

the subs are dual 1 ohm. here is their link https://www.amazon.com/SoundQubed-HDC3-118-inch-Subwoofer-1500W/dp/B00AY0EBQ0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

the subs are dual 1 ohm. here is their link https://www.amazon.com/SoundQubed-HDC3-118-inch-Subwoofer-1500W/dp/B00AY0EBQ0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

nope u have to wire each to either 2 ohm or .5 ohm so wire each to 2 ohm which will put u at 1 ohm like jeff said... just set gain low and check voltage drop at amp with volt meter when u play loud.. if it drops real low set gain lower an of course don't use any bass boost on amp or hu and no loudness or preset eq's..

 

[cparker2591]

nope u have to wire each to either 2 ohm or .5 ohm so wire each to 2 ohm which will put u at 1 ohm like jeff said... just set gain low and check voltage drop at amp with volt meter when u play loud.. if it drops real low set gain lower an of course don't use any bass boost on amp or hu and no loudness or preset eq's..

i still have a lot to learn and research but if I'm understanding correctly, ill have my amp set at 2 ohms and when i hook up two 1 ohm subs the amp will be sending 1 ohm to each sub which is what i want correct? sorry for noob stuff

 

[ckeeler11]

How you wire the speakers determines the load on the amp. the amp cannot dictate the ohm load. You will be wiring the subs together then to the amp.

your choice: https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=12#results

 

[cparker2591]

How you wire the speakers determines the load on the amp. the amp cannot dictate the ohm load. You will be wiring the subs together then to the amp.
your choice: https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=12#results

ok so if i wire them up in the series/parrell then everything will be set at 1 ohm and all be good? as long as electrical can handle it that is.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

ok so if i wire them up in the series/parrell then everything will be set at 1 ohm and all be good? as long as electrical can handle it that is.

wire it like someone showed u above to 1ohm final load and set gain low.. u may have light dimming until u upgrade wires or alt or add batt but only thing u can o to help with that is set gain low and don't turn hu up all the way (don't go more than 80% on hu anyway) make sure u have lp xover set 80-120hz and ss filter set few hz below tuning.. other option is just use 1 of the subs wired to 2 ohm until u get upgrades done.. try both at 1 ohm and check voltage if it's not to bad maybe u can make it work if not upgrade wires or just use 1 sub..

 

[cparker2591]

wire it like someone showed u above to 1ohm final load and set gain low.. u may have light dimming until u upgrade wires or alt or add batt but only thing u can o to help with that is set gain low and don't turn hu up all the way (don't go more than 80% on hu anyway) make sure u have lp xover set 80-120hz and ss filter set few hz below tuning.. other option is just use 1 of the subs wired to 2 ohm until u get upgrades done.. try both at 1 ohm and check voltage if it's not to bad maybe u can make it work if not upgrade wires or just use 1 sub..

ok thank you

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

hey just got off phone with wolfram and they recommended not to run the amp below 2 ohm on my stock electrical setup. if i have those HDC3's which are 1 ohm can i still run my amp on 2 ohm?

they just do that because they are afraid of newbies not knowing how to set gains properly and blowing amps, its a liability issue mainly to them and they want to avoid any possible warranty claims due to user error. As i said before, get a volt meter, plug the positive and negative leads of the voltmeter directly to your amp's pos and negative terminals. play some music, raise the gain until you start seeing the voltage drop below 12.6 then back it up until you keep above 13.0 volts. This method, will allow you to even run 100,000 watts rated amp on a stock setup. You wont be getting the full power but you can always upgrade the alternator or add more batteries way down the line when you feel like it wallet wise but in the meantime you'll still get pretty decent amount of bass with a lower gain setting.

Best thing is, you dont have to buy a bigger amp or beefier subs later on, you can just upgrade the electrical and turn up the amp and gain a good amount of output from that alone.

 

[cparker2591]

they just do that because they are afraid of newbies not knowing how to set gains properly and blowing amps, its a liability issue mainly to them and they want to avoid any possible warranty claims due to user error. As i said before, get a volt meter, plug the positive and negative leads of the voltmeter directly to your amp's pos and negative terminals. play some music, raise the gain until you start seeing the voltage drop below 12.6 then back it up until you keep above 13.0 volts. This method, will allow you to even run 100,000 watts rated amp on a stock setup. You wont be getting the full power but you can always upgrade the alternator or add more batteries way down the line when you feel like it wallet wise but in the meantime you'll still get pretty decent amount of bass with a lower gain setting.
Best thing is, you dont have to buy a bigger amp or beefier subs later on, you can just upgrade the electrical and turn up the amp and gain a good amount of output from that alone.

ok that makes a lot of sense, ive used a volt meter around the house lots of time's. ive just ordered both subs and amp, next thing is a custom box. ive done lots of woodworking so i might attempt it if i can find a blueprint for my subs. otherwise i gotta find somebody to make me the box. i know i wanted ported I'm pretty sure, do i need a subsonic filter? wtf is a subsonic filter? so i don't break the sound barrier? jk.....but i still don't know what it is or if i need anything else besides the box and correct wires and inline 300 amp fuse from battery positive to amp?

 

[cparker2591]

oh and i hear those subs have like a 48 hour break in period, so ill just listen to my music not so loud for 48 days if i listen an hour a day?

 

[cparker2591]

btw @Jeffdachef is awesome and @Boomin_tahoe

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

ok that makes a lot of sense, ive used a volt meter around the house lots of time's. ive just ordered both subs and amp, next thing is a custom box. ive done lots of woodworking so i might attempt it if i can find a blueprint for my subs. otherwise i gotta find somebody to make me the box. i know i wanted ported I'm pretty sure, do i need a subsonic filter? wtf is a subsonic filter? so i don't break the sound barrier? jk.....but i still don't know what it is or if i need anything else besides the box and correct wires and inline 300 amp fuse from battery positive to amp?

Build your own box its a fk ton cheaper. you dont really need a subsonic filter. which is just a high pass filter blocking lower frequencies. its not a multi-meter its an in car voltmeter like this so you can monitor as you play music

https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SVMB-Voltage-Gauge-Discontinued/dp/B001HEE8IS

oh and i hear those subs have like a 48 hour break in period, so ill just listen to my music not so loud for 48 days if i listen an hour a day?

Just play normal music, you wont be feeding them the amount of power that would do anything to their suspension, not until you upgrade the alt and by that time its more than plenty of time to loosen up the suspension on the hdc3s. Subs dont really need a break in time to be honest, all it does is just allow the sub to play a bit lower over time. There is no breaking in for safety, thats a perpetual myth that needs to die.

 

[cparker2591]

Build your own box its a fk ton cheaper. you dont really need a subsonic filter. which is just a high pass filter blocking lower frequencies. its not a multi-meter its an in car voltmeter like this so you can monitor as you play music
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SVMB-Voltage-Gauge-Discontinued/dp/B001HEE8IS

Just play normal music, you wont be feeding them the amount of power that would do anything to their suspension, not until you upgrade the alt and by that time its more than plenty of time to loosen up the suspension on the hdc3s. Subs dont really need a break in time to be honest, all it does is just allow the sub to play a bit lower over time. There is no breaking in for safety, thats a perpetual myth that needs to die.

ok ty, just read about the break in period on the soundQubed website, but ill just play normal music until i upgrade my electrical. Thank you Jeff

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

ok ty, just read about the break in period on the soundQubed website, but ill just play normal music until i upgrade my electrical. Thank you Jeff

Easy box design with this https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-48-in-Concrete-Tube-Form-Common-10-in-Actual-9-5-in/3018328

Just attach it to a baffle piece that you can screw and remove from the box so you can play with the port tuning to achieve the sound you wish by cutting it shorter if you want more upper bass response.

here's a sample blueprint and projected frequency response model and air velocity numbers.

 

[cparker2591]

Easy box design with this https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-48-in-Concrete-Tube-Form-Common-10-in-Actual-9-5-in/3018328
Just attach it to a baffle piece that you can screw and remove from the box so you can play with the port tuning to achieve the sound you wish by cutting it shorter if you want more upper bass response.

here's a sample blueprint and projected frequency response model and air velocity numbers.

ive only seen rectangle ports, hard to visualize a circular one. ill have to look up some pics. thank you for the info.