What subwoofers for the rockford fosgate t1500-1bdcp

on the SSA site it has a bunch of options for that woofer, like dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm and shredder basket upgrade and dust cap, etc.......what options would you choose? i want the 1 ohm one because ill have to amp doing 1 ohm correct?

 
Check out youtube. There's tons of vids with people's sytems on them, some are just insane to 1 sub, one amp. There's 2 Orion HCCA 10's doing hairtricks in a small 2 dr car.

 
dang that is one nice woofer, don't know if i can afford it with straight cash though. maybe though, i wish there was a good 21 inch sub on amazon because i have their store card lol.
then you are back to two 18s.

https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-EVL-18-D2-Subwoofer/dp/B01N32W75B/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517478721&sr=8-1&keywords=skar+evl+18

This says 3rd party seller but its straight from the manufacturer so its all good

https://www.amazon.com/SoundQubed-HDC3-118-inch-Subwoofer-1500W/dp/B00AY0EBQ0/ref=sr_1_62?ie=UTF8&qid=1517478579&sr=8-62&keywords=18+inch+subwoofer

 
ya i was just looking up sundown audio, very positive reviews. so you don't think stock 110 amp alternator with the big 3 upgrade and second battery would suffice for the wolfram amp? the recommended fuse rating is 300 amps so that might tell me something lol
if you stay around 1500 watts you should be fine, but 2000+ i would upgrade the alternator.

 
on the SSA site it has a bunch of options for that woofer, like dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm and shredder basket upgrade and dust cap, etc.......what options would you choose? i want the 1 ohm one because ill have to amp doing 1 ohm correct?
your wolfram will handle 1 or 0.5 ohm but with half ohm you'll want another group 31 agm battery so thats two secondary batteries for half ohm and just one for 1 ohm.

Just pick plain stock.

Again, order a volt meter and set your gains via voltage drop and you'll know if you need any actual alternator upgrade or if you are completely fine where you are at. With my old corolla a high output alternator didnt do sh*t because the 3 batts i ran already picked up most of the slack, i got noticeably louder and gained on the meter when i added those batteries, i didnt gain anything at all upgrading the alt for that setup.

 
if you stay around 1500 watts you should be fine, but 2000+ i would upgrade the alternator.
I disagree. So instead of adding an amp to the electrical and call it good, chances are you or him in this case will have lights dimming. He will be robbing voltage from his alt to the amp. That said, most cases the big 3 solves that issue. Next comes a better battery if he doesn't have one already....preferably an agm. I just got my Tahoe a new battery not long ago. Screw those auto parts places. 80 bucks new, Interstate...cannot beat that. And if he chooses to, and when he gets bigger amp/subs whatever then HO alt is in need. I would def suggest CES, OP for an alt.

 
not really, i've had an inefficient 2400.1 + 100 x 4 on a stock 80 amp alt for several years with no issues at all on my old setup. Even now my buddy has a 3k amp on a stock jeep alt with big 3 and agm in the front and group 31 in the back, does not drop under 13.5 when power is clean.
Just because its a 3k amp doesnt mean you are drawing 3k worth of current. With box rise, you are getting A LOT less power around 2.5 ohms to 4 ohms power range depending on frequency along with music being dynamic meaning its very short bursts as well with varying impedance. All that added together means, you arent even drawing anywhere near any kind of power and current you are expecting on paper. Real world current draw is vastly different from outdated guidelines, anyone that's ever clamped their amps would know this and depending on the car, you can run a lot more than most people would expect on a lot less.
That is true, but you also have to look at the efficiency of the amp. You're always going to draw quite a bit more amps than you are outputting. Personally if I was into spl the first thing i would do is spend a few hundred bucks on a high output alternator. they really aren't that expensive you know.

 
i was looking at those 18 skar's, does it matter that they are 2 ohms and my amp will be running 1 ohm?...they seem nice, so if you were to compare two of those to one death penalty, how close would they be? ill get the wolfram and either the death or skar's

 
That is true, but you also have to look at the efficiency of the amp. You're always going to draw quite a bit more amps than you are outputting. Personally if I was into spl the first thing i would do is spend a few hundred bucks on a high output alternator. they really aren't that expensive you know.[/QUOTE]
The hell they aren't....this hobby is expensive, unless you going out on a limb buying cheapass HO alts from ebay claiming 250 amperes for 160 bucks....Look at DC Power, Singer, EA alts, CES...all those people are expensive.
 
That is true, but you also have to look at the efficiency of the amp. You're always going to draw quite a bit more amps than you are outputting. Personally if I was into spl the first thing i would do is spend a few hundred bucks on a high output alternator. they really aren't that expensive you know.
high output alternator for my rig is 600 bucks, little pricey if i can make a second battery work instead.

 
That is true, but you also have to look at the efficiency of the amp. You're always going to draw quite a bit more amps than you are outputting. Personally if I was into spl the first thing i would do is spend a few hundred bucks on a high output alternator. they really aren't that expensive you know.
500-1200 dollars for a high output alt nowadays. Most korean board amps are relatively efficient and that particular wolfram amp is actually the identical clone of c2 audio recon amps which were very efficient.

All he really needs to do is to lower the gains till he gets 12.6 volts or higher. You can even throw a 10,000 watt amp on a stock alternator and it'll work just fine as long as you set gains by voltage. Will he get full power out of his amp? most likely not, however he does not have to spend money a brand new amp later on if he decides its not enough bass, he can add another batt or swap the alt at a later stage in time. Vs wasting money on a sub-par setup now, losing depreciation value and relling it later at a much lower price then buying new gear later. Its a very wasteful way to spend money in all honesty compared to the "get good gear now, run it intelligently then just add on electricals as needed"

 
just incase my post got skipped over in the discussion of HO and batteries lol, i was looking at those 18 skar's, does it matter that they are 2 ohms and my amp will be running 1 ohm?...they seem nice, so if you were to compare two of those to one death penalty, how close would they be? ill get the wolfram and either the death or skar's

 
i was looking at those 18 skar's, does it matter that they are 2 ohms and my amp will be running 1 ohm?...they seem nice, so if you were to compare two of those to one death penalty, how close would they be? ill get the wolfram and either the death or skar's
They will be very close. With two D2 18s your wiring options are 2 ohms and 0.5 ohms you cannot achieve 1 ohm. The dual 4 ohm option is when you get the wiring option of 4 ohms or 1 ohm for two D4 18s however that option is unavailable right now on amazon.

 
They will be very close. With two D2 18s your wiring options are 2 ohms and 0.5 ohms you cannot achieve 1 ohm. The dual 4 ohm option is when you get the wiring option of 4 ohms or 1 ohm for two D4 18s however that option is unavailable right now on amazon.
If you want to stay 1 ohm i'd stick with the HDC3 18s, its a better sub.
what does D2 mean, and I'm new to all this ohm stuff. if i get those skars then do i have to run my amp in 2 ohm mode instead of 1?

 
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