What is "SQ" these days?

Whatever the reason is, it still looks like crap. Are you saying that installs have gotten cleaner since the 90's?
you didnt read anything. You literally cannot be inside your car operating your friggen head unit when you compete. you literally have to bring the head unit out and control it from the outside as you burp They do not allow anyone inside the vehicle or thats an automatic disqualification. Its a fked up rule but its there and you have to adhere to it if you are a serious competitor.

I'm not saying installs are cleaner, its literally the same sh*t, some good some horrible, you focus on the horrible. I can easily do the same and pick apart the garbage looking setups of the 90s as well you old fart. However nowadays we are a lot louder and A LOT better sounding due to technology advancements in tuning, driver and power. Plus back then a high school education can get you a blue collared job and feed your family just fine. Nowdays people are too busy grinding with their day job + side business + investment portfolios to even invest in any time in making sh*t pretty like back then. We have lives and livelihoods to tend to 80k income a year aint sh*t in California.

Nothing in the 90s can even come close to holding a candle to what we have today SQ/SPL wise.

35114610_2256788087665456_1107217911501553664_o.jpg


 
you didnt read anything. You literally cannot be inside your car operating your friggen head unit when you compete. you literally have to bring the head unit out and control it from the outside as you burp They do not allow anyone inside the vehicle or thats an automatic disqualification. Its a fked up rule but its there and you have to adhere to it if you are a serious competitor.
I'm not saying installs are cleaner, its literally the same sh*t, some good some horrible, you focus on the horrible. I can easily do the same and pick apart the garbage looking setups of the 90s as well you old fart. However nowadays we are a lot louder and A LOT better sounding due to technology advancements in tuning, driver and power. Plus back then a high school education can get you a blue collared job and feed your family just fine. Nowdays people are too busy grinding with their day job + side business + investment portfolios to even invest in any time in making sh*t pretty like back then. We have lives and livelihoods to tend to 80k income a year aint sh*t in California.

Nothing in the 90s can even come close to holding a candle to what we have today SQ/SPL wise.

35114610_2256788087665456_1107217911501553664_o.jpg
You sound pretty angry. I won't get your blood pressure up too much but I will say, having to not be in your car while competing isn't a reason to have your HU hanging out. If you gave a crap about presentation, you would have a remote setup.

 
There has always been **** cars and show cars. Less people are sponsored these days. Team deals don’t go far.
Yeah, I can see the sponsorship money isn't there, many of the big brands are now zombie companies.

 
To break it down, this is the basic outline of what I am looking to do with the next system. 4 Channel amp for mids and highs, mono amp for the sub. DSP running active crossovers and a Hi Res Audio HU. A simple 3-way setup. Speakers are subject to change as well as Head Unit and DSP. Amps are set in stone "Barbara Ann and Mike."

My-System.jpg


Images are representative.

 
To break it down, this is the basic outline of what I am looking to do with the next system. 4 Channel amp for mids and highs, mono amp for the sub. DSP running active crossovers and a Hi Res Audio HU. A simple 3-way setup. Speakers are subject to change as well as Head Unit and DSP. Amps are set in stone "Barbara Ann and Mike."
My-System.jpg


Images are representative.
The AC DSP is not a fan favorite.

I suggest downloading different ones software to see what you like best. Helix, Hertz, Audison, JL, upcoming Dayton. Don’t sweat the HU

Every DSP has a full thread on DIYMA.

 
I watched a lot of videos for different DSP's. Viewed the different software interfaces. Compared prices and what not. I think my initial choice in the Audiocontrol DM-608 is the right one for me. The Helix DSP Pro MK2 is outstanding though. I didn't like the JL at all. The RF 3SIXTY.3 is cool as well. For simplicity and price... AC DM-608 is my choice.

So, three things settled on so far:

1. AC DM-608 DSP

2. US Acoustics Barbara Ann (Currently Owned)

3. US Acoustics Mike (Coming Soon)

4. Head Unit... Most likely a Kenwood eXcelon. (I fear change lol)

 
I watched a lot of videos for different DSP's. Viewed the different software interfaces. Compared prices and what not. I think my initial choice in the Audiocontrol DM-608 is the right one for me. The Helix DSP Pro MK2 is outstanding though. I didn't like the JL at all. The RF 3SIXTY.3 is cool as well. For simplicity and price... AC DM-608 is my choice.
So, three things settled on so far:

1. AC DM-608 DSP

2. US Acoustics Barbara Ann (Currently Owned)

3. US Acoustics Mike (Coming Soon)

4. Head Unit... Most likely a Kenwood eXcelon. (I fear change lol)
Pretty certain you wont see much of a difference at all between that us acoustics mike vs your rockford prime with the amp dyno numbers showing the US acoustics mike only making 100 watts more than the prime while having WAAAAAAAAY worse efficiency 82% with the rockford and 67% with the us acoustics mike. If you have a dsp, it literally doesnt matter what head unit you get. If you do bluetooth, the excelons with APTX will actually sound pretty nice with bluetooth if you stream lossless or have a tidal subscription.

 
I watched a lot of videos for different DSP's. Viewed the different software interfaces. Compared prices and what not. I think my initial choice in the Audiocontrol DM-608 is the right one for me. The Helix DSP Pro MK2 is outstanding though. I didn't like the JL at all. The RF 3SIXTY.3 is cool as well. For simplicity and price... AC DM-608 is my choice.
So, three things settled on so far:

1. AC DM-608 DSP

2. US Acoustics Barbara Ann (Currently Owned)

3. US Acoustics Mike (Coming Soon)

4. Head Unit... Most likely a Kenwood eXcelon. (I fear change lol)
Since you don’t listen to people that do this. Make sure AC added left and right independent EQ in the last update. It is pointless without it.

This is the last time I will waste my time with you. Good luck.

 
@LosIsATool - I do listen, that's why I watched the videos, looked at the software (well, the GUI of each DSP), prices, read some owners manuals (pdf's) and so on. Now when it comes time to pull the trigger and buy the DSP if there is a HELIX or Bit ONE or 3Sixty.3 cheap enough then it would be silly not to jump on one of them. I have a buddy that does the same thing... suggest something, I research it, I make up my OWN mind and do something else based on my research and taste, it ends up working just fine, my buddy loses his mind because I didn't do what he suggested and takes it personally. Case in point. I had to change a ball joint, he told me to only get the "Moog" ball joint as "ALL OTHERS ARE JUNK AND WILL FAIL" I like Moog, I did not buy Moog, I bought a house brand, made by a reputable company with a good warranty for less money. I have not had to replace it nor have I had a problem with it. He got personally offended even though it does what it is designed to do and I saved money. He even said he would not help me put it on the vehicle. Makes no sense. I'd hate to see you not posting, you are helpful.

@Jeffdacheff - I am a big fan of matching the visible parts of the system. The prime amp was always going to be a temporary amp for my sub. I bought it for $100 out the door at a pawn shop, ordered the correct gain knob and hooked it up. How was I to know RF lowest line, least expensive amps would be... well, good. Everything I am looking to do is subject to change... it all comes down to timing and money. I am always on the lookout for deals and what not. The overall goal is not going to change - A Bi-amplified active 3-way system capable of playing up to 96/24 audio. My phone doesn't leave my pocket while I am driving so I don't use it for music.
 
lack of left and right EQ is just a giant limiter on your overall system capalities on sound quality thats all but you'd need to know how to use a left and right EQ professionally to even make use of it.

 
Hertz H8 is the same price range as the AC. It uses the bit software but updated.

I’ll probsbly get the Dayton when it comes out.

The Helix mk2 is also cheaper. Get it from overseas

 
yeah its not the same case as the example you put up, its a legitimate reason that really holds back your SQ potential by far (i=Independant right and left EQ AKA the ability to EQ each individual driver rather than just lumping everything together which is what the audiocontrol does). Yes you can just settle for mediocre thats fine but if you are actually looking for a top tier sounding system, that aspect is extremely important. Not one of those nutthugging brands sort of thing. There's a whole other forum dedicated to sound quality and there's been a full thread of every DSP possible and there's a major consensus of which ones are king when it comes to price, reliability, software, overall tuning capabilities, specs and hardware.

 
Hertz H8 is the same price range as the AC. It uses the bit software but updated. I’ll probsbly get the Dayton when it comes out.

The Helix mk2 is also cheaper. Get it from overseas
I looked at the H8... looks cool but I don't want to use high level inputs and I don't see an option for low level inputs. The least expensive I could find the Helix is $750 (eBay). Is that good? Is there any literature on the Dayton?

Hey Jeffdachef on the subject of apps for the android phone of mine for that Dayton Audio calibrated mic, you said a paid app... is there a specific one that stands out above the others? I don't want to get a crap one.

Also, I reached out to Audiocontrol and inquired on if they plan to update their software and or firmware to add the ability to EQ left to right independently or each speaker individually. Hopefully they respond.

 
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