What do i need for a second battery?

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

Just bought another orion 2500. I will have a kinetik 2400 on the way soon. So what do i need to connect the new batt with my yellow top under the hood? Do i just run parallel the batts with 1/0? Do i have to fuse both + and -? Is it a must i have an isolator?

What size of fuse do i need to use between the two batteries? Will a 300 amp be enough? Sorry for all the questions. Just want to get this stuff ordered by tomorrow so I can get started on installing it all up.

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[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

bump

 

[SkwurlyFab 10+ year member]

I'm planning on doing this too very soon? What's the reason for getting the Kinetik 2400 for the back instead of a 2nd yellowtop? Are the Kinetiks superior cuz I was just planning on buying another yellow top?

 

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

Well I hear the Kinetiks are much better. Plus, a guy im building a box for is trading me one and cash for a fiberglass box.

 

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

So, lets answer some questions.

Can I run 2 2500s off the batt in the truck with only 1 run of 1/0 gauge wire connecting it with the batt up front and a 350 amp fuse, or will this fuse blow?

Do I need 2 runs of 1/0 each fused?

 

[SkwurlyFab 10+ year member]

Well if you're gonna put 2 power runs and 2 ground runs off the rear battery to your 2 amps, you're gonna want to equal it out with adding the additional runs to the front battery. Seems like there'd be a fair amount of resistance otherwise and quite a bottleneck to the whole system.

 

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

So 2 runs of 1/0 off my batt up front to the batt in the back. Ouch, thats gonna be pricy.

Anyone else?

 

[lrgnation 10+ year member]

yeah 2 runs...pricey but has to be done if your going to be running that much power off it. thats what i will be doing soon. 2 optima yellow tops and 2 2500's off the back battery with a 300amp alternator.

 

[photocrazy8 10+ year member]

no isolator...just run like you said in parallel like you said...its on that the yellow top is under the hood...the bigger batt should always be in back...i have a sp1700 for my main battery and (2) 2400's in the back for the 2500d i just sold...ish got loud...

 

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

Well, looks like I will be ordering about 70 ft of 1/0, 4 distros, an extra inline fuse holder, 60 ft 4 gauge, 1 meter RCAs, and 2 extra battery terminals.

This list look about right? Am I missing anything?

 

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

not many people visit the electrical section?

 

[lrgnation 10+ year member]

what do you need the 60ft of 4ga for?

 

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

8 runs from distro to amps (4 ground and 4 power). Im over estimating on everything, because Id rather be safe than sorry.

 

[buildmeabox 10+ year member]

If you want to properly charge the second battery and isolate it from the main one I would get an isolator. Think about it all you'll need is one battery isolater to run and charge your other battery or more without having to pull alot of 1/0 cable. The iso. will let you charge more than one battery plus if you keep it close to your amp... shorter cable pulls. Look into the MBR 1 I think by Orion, I use to run one and its a plus when the rest of your electrical system isn't fighting your audio equiment for juice.

 

[SkwurlyFab 10+ year member]

So with an isolater it charges both batteries but the system only pulls juice from the one the battery in the rear? If that's the case what's the point of upgrading the battery in front if it will only be powering the cars stock electronics?