What could the problem be? Still. Experts only please.

[knukonceptz 10+ year member]

Volt meter set to DC - Take Red and black lead stick them on the amps + and - ; car on (should be 13.8-14.4V). See what this is at. Then turn on radio, take the red lead put on turn on wire (leave black on -) Check this reading. Back to the power/ground wires - Then turn up the radio to where the problem occurs, check voltage at + and - If that goes below 12V that is what is causing the problem. If that stays in the 13V -14V range, check the turn on lead like you did before. If any of those are below 12V thats the problem

 

[knukonceptz 10+ year member]

BTW - DC is the ------ line; not ~ use the "20" scale

 

[jklfd 10+ year member]

Volt meter set to DC - Take Red and black lead stick them on the amps + and - ; car on (should be 13.8-14.4V). See what this is at. Then turn on radio, take the red lead put on turn on wire (leave black on -) Check this reading. Back to the power/ground wires - Then turn up the radio to where the problem occurs, check voltage at + and - If that goes below 12V that is what is causing the problem. If that stays in the 13V -14V range, check the turn on lead like you did before. If any of those are below 12V thats the problem

We're talking about the - + on the amp and NOT the battery right?

I'll do that and try and get some readings for you guys hopefully by tomorrow if not by friday for sure. Hope ya'll can help me out once i get all the readings.

So I only check the power wire, remote lead wire and what else?

How bout for the ground? where do i put the leads to measure ground and what should it read?

 

[knukonceptz 10+ year member]

Yes, at the amp's connection terminals is where you want to get this reading from. Red lead to + on the amp Black lead to - of the amp. That tells you what the voltage is at the amp (check this with car on, radio off; then recheck car on, radio on with problem occuring) The Black lead is always on the - of the amp for both tests (for + test and turn on lead test)

If you have a voltage problem (we'll conclude that later) it will be one of two things, a loose connection on either power or ground (bad crimp, loose terminal at the battery, bad fuse) or a bad ground. Get the numbers from the voltmeter and post your findings, we'll go from there.

 

[jklfd 10+ year member]

thanks alot knukonceptz. youve been very helpful. BTW, u the owner of knukonceptz wiring?

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

Is there anything you could do to check if there are dead spots in the coil?

a DMM

 

[jklfd 10+ year member]

a DMM

What do you do with the DMM to check?

Voltmeter = DMM right?

 

[MegaHurtz 10+ year member]

A voltmeter will just measure volts... a DMM can measure current, resistance, voltage, among other things.

First, where in Canada are you located?

Your problem sounds like one of power related issues. What vehicle do you have?

When you first had your system and it didn't cut out, what was the weather like? Was there a significant difference in temperature from when the problem didn't occur to when it did occur?

Everything you have posted so far is suggestive of a power problem... that would explain why it only cuts out at high volumes and why it worked on a test bench. How big is your battery?

 

[jklfd 10+ year member]

K i finally got a meter on it. With the car turned on, and radio off, it reads 13v for power and remote wire. Whith the radio on, it reads 14.5v for power and remote.

When i turn the music up and subs cut out, power is still getting 14.5 when sub cuts out, so is remote. But now i notice my amp power light turns off when the music is blast which makes my sub cut in/out. When i turn the volume down, power light on amp does not turn off and my subs dont cut in/out.

Hmmm. Whats causing the power light on the amp to turn off?

 

[GrnEydDvl 10+ year member]

Have you tried contacting JL directly about this? Perhaps they can help since they know their amps and their power supplies better than anyone else.

My 500/1 had a similar issue where the subs would just all the sudden get much quieter. Still sound but just at a reduced level.

It ended up being just a loose speaker wire connection. I stripped more off and reseated the speaker wire and all was cool.

But prior to the fix I could wiggle the wire and cause it to get louder and quieter. The wire was never loose enough to be pulled out though.

Have you tried wiggling the speaker wires while the subs are messing up?

 

[jklfd 10+ year member]

ok, i think i figured out the problem. The power terminal was not dead tight, so i used an allen(sp) key and tightened as tight as i possibly could. The effect? the power light doesnt shut off.

Im guessing since my amp is screwed onto the back of the sub box that all the bass eventually loosened the connection.

I hope that was it to my problem. I'll be more sure when i drive around more tonight.

Thanks to each and everyone of you for your help.

 

[dleccord 5,000+ posts]

his problem is no sounds, i believe.

 

[theCybe 5,000+ posts]

power is still getting 14.5 when sub cuts out, so is remote.

The remote shouldn't be getting 14.5. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[dleccord 5,000+ posts]

get some of this:

https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms:A

and this:

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=RT4516BK

rewire your car. shouldnt cost too much now....

 

[jklfd 10+ year member]

The remote shouldn't be getting 14.5. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

it was getting like 13.5 constant with the car and radio on.