welding supply wire vs others...

I believe you're thinking of AC current. For DC current, it only matters for flexibility. Hell if it wasn't for flexibility... it'd be great to run 1single strand of 1/0 to your amps.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

nG
hmmm...seems that you are correct, after a little research i found this which supports your statment. good job

http://diyaudiocorner.tripod.com/skin.htm

The skin effect is totally negligible at frequencies lower then 50Khz and a car system is powered with DC, so in a car you don’t have to fear the skin effect. Even the ultra high frequencies of the tweeter wires aren’t high enough to have an audible effect.

Otherwise than power and speaker wire, there can be a major difference concerning SIGNAL wire. This is all the wire between your head unit’s output and the amp’s input. In general the lower the signal amplitude, the more care you should take at it. That’s because these wires are conducting a very low power signal. A 0.1 V noise signal can easily mutilate a 1V music signal so that you get a very poor signal to noise ratio of 20 dB. When this same 0.1V noise signal happens at the output of a 100 W RMS power amp, you can hear it much harder : 100W RMS@4 ohm gives 20 V RMS at the speaker terminal. This gives a signal to noise ratio of 46 dB.

Also, any noise or interference picked up in the signal wires will be amplified. Use good quality wire with an adequate shielding. I can’t give a good brand, but most of the top quality brands will also produce good wire to connect their stuff. Make good interconnections and keep them as far away from the power wires as possible.

 
You should have gotten our package Thursday or Friday - sent by USPS Priority on Tuesday (24th).
i was not home thursday or friday...im back home in the bay area for a lil visiting my family...

 
I didnt read the entire thread, but i did read most of it. I found a big three upgrade kit on eD's website for 40 shipped. enough to do one big three upgrade to even the most spread out electrical system. my question is, anyone know the quality or size of this 1/0 wire? is it worth the price, or should i look into Knu or Stinger? this kit also includes quite a few 1/0 ring terminals.

 
Like to see TryStar Welding Cable.I used it in my '98~Saturn SC/2.1/0 FOR Power and Ground,and 4/gauge to my Kicker ZR/1000 and ZR/600 and for my 2-Farad Tsunami Cap.

Got it from Coppercableman on E/bay.It has like a pvc insulator not paper on the inside/Different colors and you can get lettering printed on it too.

The guy's name is Chris.Very nice man.Take Care.

*Kind Regards*

*[Raymond]*/:)

 
Like to see TryStar Welding Cable.I used it in my '98~Saturn SC/2.1/0 FOR Power and Ground,and 4/gauge to my Kicker ZR/1000 and ZR/600 and for my 2-Farad Tsunami Cap.Got it from Coppercableman on E/bay.It has like a pvc insulator not paper on the inside/Different colors and you can get lettering printed on it too.

The guy's name is Chris.Very nice man.Take Care.

*Kind Regards*

*[Raymond]*/:)
Look for the post that I replied to. It has a comparison of the Trystar welding cable, local welding cable, Kicker Hyperflex, Knu Kollossus and Lighting Audio.

 
I didnt read the entire thread, but i did read most of it. I found a big three upgrade kit on eD's website for 40 shipped. enough to do one big three upgrade to even the most spread out electrical system. my question is, anyone know the quality or size of this 1/0 wire? is it worth the price, or should i look into Knu or Stinger? this kit also includes quite a few 1/0 ring terminals.
I want to know this too. how is the ed wire?

 
Look for the post that I replied to. It has a comparison of the Trystar welding cable, local welding cable, Kicker Hyperflex, Knu Kollossus and Lighting Audio.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Good Mornin',

Ok...I didn't read the entire thread...But I'll look.Thank You.

*\Kind Regards/*

 
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