Using External Amp Fuses ?

Still never happened to me. But that is in fact what the fuse is there for.
Actually no it's not. Just stop, now you're giving out bad advice. It's not there to promote working on car with their electrical systems intact. It's there for the remote possibility of catostrophic failure. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
Actually no it's not. Just stop, now you're giving out bad advice. It's not there to promote working on car with their electrical systems intact. It's there for the remote possibility of catostrophic failure. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
Which will in fact result in a dead short.

I guess all manufacturers give out bad advice on where to fuse their amps //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
Well in your case since you put yourself in situations where a dead short is possible, wouldn't it make sense to underfuse an amp and have the fuse pop sooner than later?
I mean for craps sake, we're talking about a small amount of money here for fuses.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

I quit. I don't want to play anymore. Replying to you is dumbing me down. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
dont wanna get into the bickering here, but i also was thinking along these same lines. i mean, id rather UNDERfuse an amp by a bit than OVERfuse. if you overfused, it would take longer and more of a stronger power burst or whatever to blow it, therefore damaging something internally. i dunno, just seems logical

 
You really don't understanding the Laws of Physics do you?
Everytime you lower the load of the amp, it draws more current, PERIOD, no questions asked. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
bigger letters don't make you right.

so why is it when an amp has onboard fuses, you don't change them out for different loads? why, why, why????

The replacement for internal fusing is the fusing left to the end user on these amps. (theres some reason I read about dealing with the power supply switching or something on the amp circuits) It's to protect from catastrophic failue(and fire) in the amp since there are no onboard fuses.

BTW, these aren't the amps in your sig...where can I find one!!!!

1 x 1200W @ 4 ohms

1 x 2300W @ 2 ohms

1 x 3700W @ 1 ohm

THD: 0.03%

Damping Factor: >700

 
dont wanna get into the bickering here, but i also was thinking along these same lines. i mean, id rather UNDERfuse an amp by a bit than OVERfuse. if you overfused, it would take longer and more of a stronger power burst or whatever to blow it, therefore damaging something internally. i dunno, just seems logical
i said that numerous times. better to under fuse than to over fuse. just like it`d be better to have 1 fuse to worry about.

 
bigger letters don't make you right.
So you're saying lowering the load presented to an amp doesn't increase the amount of amperes it draws? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

Holy batshit, I thought that was a basic fundamental electrical property? ****, I better re-enroll into college and retake Basic Physics again. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

 
So you're saying lowering the load presented to an amp doesn't increase the amount of amperes it draws? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif
Holy batshit, I thought that was a basic fundamental electrical property? ****, I better re-enroll into college and retake Basic Physics again. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif
Let me put this in layman's terms for you. You have a 1000 watt amp at one ohms. It has 100 amps of on board fusing so it will do rated power. You are saying, if I run it at 4 ohms, I will need to replace the on board fuses with smaller ones. This is simply not true.

While it will not hurt with the exception of maybe replacing the fuse more often, there is no reason to do it. And saying someone is wrong for suggesting that you dont have to, is absolutely asinine.

 
i said that numerous times. better to under fuse than to over fuse. just like it`d be better to have 1 fuse to worry about.
Of course, because there is no harm in leaving one input not fused. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
So you're saying lowering the load presented to an amp doesn't increase the amount of amperes it draws? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif
Holy batshit, I thought that was a basic fundamental electrical property? ****, I better re-enroll into college and retake Basic Physics again. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif
NOT the problem, just get a better understanding of different uses for products. I agree, current does increase, but that's not what these fuses are for, they are for amp failure.(they don't want to get sued over a car fire if their amp melts down internally)

There could(should) already be reverse wiring, short-circuit(too low of a load), overheating, low input power voltage protection built in.

Some time ago, someone smart actually posted WHY these class-d amps don't have internal fuses.

 
You are saying, if I run it at 4 ohms, I will need to replace the on board fuses with smaller ones. This is simply not true.
And saying someone is wrong for suggesting that you dont have to, is absolutely asinine.
Actually if you had been doing this as long as I have you would know that not all car amplifiers have onboard fuses. Take for instance, both of my current Linear Power amps. They not only don't have built in fuses, but they need to have selector switched move to run at different ohm loads. So I'd say it be you that be asinine.

Some pics of their collective guts: First is my LP 4753IQ

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/BoomBoomBoy/AMPGUTS/?action=view&current=DSCF0041.jpg

See the blue pushon terminal, that has to be moved to the open terminal to it's right that says 2 ohms:

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/BoomBoomBoy/?action=view&current=Powertransistors.jpg

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/BoomBoomBoy/?action=view&current=DSCF0060.jpg

This is the LP 2002:

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/BoomBoomBoy/AMPGUTS/?action=view&current=DSCF0042.jpg

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/BoomBoomBoy/AMPGUTS/?action=view&current=DSCF0050.jpg

I warned you about assumptions from the beginning. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
Actually if you had been doing this as long as I have you would know that not all car amplifiers have onboard fuses. Take for instance, both of my current Linear Power amps. They not only don't have built in fuses, but they need to have selector switched move to run at different ohm loads. So I'd say it be you that be asinine.
Some pics of their collective guts: First is my LP 4753IQ

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/BoomBoomBoy/AMPGUTS/?action=view&current=DSCF0041.jpg

See the blue pushon terminal, that has to be moved to the open terminal to it's right that says 2 ohms:

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/BoomBoomBoy/?action=view&current=Powertransistors.jpg

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/BoomBoomBoy/?action=view&current=DSCF0060.jpg

This is the LP 2002:

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/BoomBoomBoy/AMPGUTS/?action=view&current=DSCF0042.jpg

http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/BoomBoomBoy/AMPGUTS/?action=view&current=DSCF0050.jpg

I warned you about assumptions from the beginning. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
They still have a rating for each setting. Which is the max current draw for each setting. Lookie the rule still stands.

But keep trying, it is entertaining. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
But keep trying, it is entertaining. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
Sorry, when I move that switch from 4 ohms to two ohms the engineers that designed it suggest an appropriate fuse change. You should too. I'm going to rightfull follow their advice over yours.

I always retire after I've checkmated someone. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif:cool://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

Anyways OP, I provided you with the formula to your original question. Good Luck!

 
Sorry, when I move that switch from 4 ohms to two ohms the engineers that designed it suggest an appropriate fuse change. You should too. I'm going to rightfull follow their advice over yours.
I always retire after I've checkmated someone. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif:cool://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

Anyways OP, I provided you with the formula to your original question. Good Luck!
So why doesnt sounstream change their fuse ratings on the reference amplifiers regardless of high voltage/ high current switch?

Checkmate //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif What a tool.

Not to mention your equation doesnt even take into effect efficiency. You may as well pull numbers straight out of your ***.

 
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