Upgrading my budget system [Help Wanted] 6/29/2016

Alright thanks. I'll stick with just the components. I was thinking going active was something different but I realize now it's the crossover, I would prefer to stay passive with that since It seems like a ton of work that I just don't know how to do. I'm going to try out the Alpine MRP-F300 AMP but If It doesn't work I might buy a PPI 990.4
How practical are these T-Spec V6-1-5DDC Digital Capacitor or really any Digital Capacitor..?

And How practical is putting in a supplementary Battery?... For the subs, and amps...?

Right now I plan on buying these items: (Pioneer head doesn't exactly fit with my car but I'm going to see If I can't make it fit...I think i read it doesn't fit because there isn't enough depth in the dash.

KnuKonceptz Kolossus 8 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

P660C 6 1/2"" (160mm) 2-way component system

(Precision Power P900.4 900-Watt Phantom Series Class D Full Range 4-Channel Amplifier (IF other amp doesn't workout)

Again sorry for all the questions, I really do appreciate the help.
capacitors are utterly and completely useless for helping power your amp. Do the big 3 upgrade (google that up) if you are experiencing voltage drops, if you arent experiencing anything bad, you are fine, no need to do anything, chances are, you wont need anything since you are running less than 1k rms total. You only need a good under the hood battery and good wiring/ground aka the big 3 if you are running 1.2k to 2k rms.

 
capacitors are utterly and completely useless for helping power your amp. Do the big 3 upgrade (google that up) if you are experiencing voltage drops, if you arent experiencing anything bad, you are fine, no need to do anything, chances are, you wont need anything since you are running less than 1k rms total. You only need a good under the hood battery and good wiring/ground aka the big 3 if you are running 1.2k to 2k rms.
Awesome, and do you know anything about the pioneer HU not fitting and how I might be able to make it fit?

 
capacitors are utterly and completely useless for helping power your amp. Do the big 3 upgrade (google that up) if you are experiencing voltage drops, if you arent experiencing anything bad, you are fine, no need to do anything, chances are, you wont need anything since you are running less than 1k rms total. You only need a good under the hood battery and good wiring/ground aka the big 3 if you are running 1.2k to 2k rms.
Completely forgot to ask: Is it better to run my tweeters, and front door speakers on the 4 channel amp and then have the rears run on the stock amp or straight to the HU... OR Run all 6 speakers off of the one aftermarket 4 channel amp.?

 
Completely forgot to ask: Is it better to run my tweeters, and front door speakers on the 4 channel amp and then have the rears run on the stock amp or straight to the HU... OR Run all 6 speakers off of the one aftermarket 4 channel amp.?
no stock amp at all. components come with a crossover where you hook the 6.5s and tweeters up to, you only need to hook the crossover to the amp and both tweets and mids are powered. The rear channel can power your rears. its much more simple than you think.

Awesome, and do you know anything about the pioneer HU not fitting and how I might be able to make it fit?
if you can fit the kenwood kmm bt315U, you should be able to fit the 80 prs, they are the same size, no difference.

 
no stock amp at all. components come with a crossover where you hook the 6.5s and tweeters up to, you only need to hook the crossover to the amp and both tweets and mids are powered. The rear channel can power your rears. its much more simple than you think.


if you can fit the kenwood kmm bt315U, you should be able to fit the 80 prs, they are the same size, no difference.
So I've ran into a few questions, First with the new set of component speakers JBL P660C I'm wondering Where is the best place to mount the passive crossover? I'm assuming close to the door but since I'm making an amp rack type of thing would it be smart to put it where that is located (In the trunk) Although it would be a pain in the *** and extra wire. Certainly would look cool and be easily accessible and then also wired easily to the amp...? Also There is negative and positive power for the tweeter and woofer but also an input positive and negative for the crossover, what is this and how do I wire it? Also with the new tweeters should I put them in the stock tweeter location with is facing toward the windshield or mount them somewhere else towards the driver and not reflecting off of the windshield..? Last but the most important question... I've also noticed while buying the JBL p660C speakers on amazon it says the component speakers are 2 ohm speakers and you need a 2 ohm stable amp. I have this Alpine amp Alpine MRP-F300 that is 4 channels 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) And 50 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode). Can I run the 4 speakers on this amp? And if so can I run the rears and the components on this amp?

 
So I've ran into a few questions, First with the new set of component speakers JBL P660C I'm wondering Where is the best place to mount the passive crossover? I'm assuming close to the door but since I'm making an amp rack type of thing would it be smart to put it where that is located (In the trunk) Although it would be a pain in the *** and extra wire. Certainly would look cool and be easily accessible and then also wired easily to the amp...? Also There is negative and positive power for the tweeter and woofer but also an input positive and negative for the crossover, what is this and how do I wire it? Also with the new tweeters should I put them in the stock tweeter location with is facing toward the windshield or mount them somewhere else towards the driver and not reflecting off of the windshield..? Last but the most important question... I've also noticed while buying the JBL p660C speakers on amazon it says the component speakers are 2 ohm speakers and you need a 2 ohm stable amp. I have this Alpine amp Alpine MRP-F300 that is 4 channels 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) And 50 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode). Can I run the 4 speakers on this amp? And if so can I run the rears and the components on this amp?
Having the crossovers in the trunk for looks is nice, however i have underneath my dash and glove compartment since im cheap with wire since i use 12 gauge ofc and that stuffs expensive. You just have a positive and negative run from the amp to the input pos and negative of the crossover. Not that hard just pos to pos,neg to neg.

With the tweeters, dont fully install them, have them playing and put double sided tape to each location and see which locations sound best then mount it at that location.

Your alpine amp and most other amps on the market will work fine with that set we already know the ohm load before we even recommended to you bud.

Wire channel 1 and two pos and negative to crossover input pos and negative

Then wire rears straight to channels 3 and 4. Its very simple bud.

 
Having the crossovers in the trunk for looks is nice, however i have underneath my dash and glove compartment since im cheap with wire since i use 12 gauge ofc and that stuffs expensive. You just have a positive and negative run from the amp to the input pos and negative of the crossover. Not that hard just pos to pos,neg to neg.
With the tweeters, dont fully install them, have them playing and put double sided tape to each location and see which locations sound best then mount it at that location.

Your alpine amp and most other amps on the market will work fine with that set we already know the ohm load before we even recommended to you bud.

Wire channel 1 and two pos and negative to crossover input pos and negative

Then wire rears straight to channels 3 and 4. Its very simple bud.
Thank you, I just wasn't really positive on how to do this. I really, really appreciate the help thanks and have a good fourth!

 
Having the crossovers in the trunk for looks is nice, however i have underneath my dash and glove compartment since im cheap with wire since i use 12 gauge ofc and that stuffs expensive. You just have a positive and negative run from the amp to the input pos and negative of the crossover. Not that hard just pos to pos,neg to neg.
Thought of a question while I'm waiting for my items to ship I wanted to tune my sub woofer and sub amp, although it'll probably change when I get my new head unit I figured I could at least tune the amp?

It's a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D 500W Mono sub Amp. I was just wondering what steps I might follow to tune it. I tried looking up videos and just googling but my amp has a lot less adjustments then the ones people are using so It's pretty confusing on what they do or it just didn't really make sense.

Also a question about RMS rating for the new speakers I bought the (P660C 6 1/2"" (160mm) 2-way component system) Wondering if you might be willing to go into depth on really what this means when looking at a product. I don't really understand what allows speakers to go louder or handle more volume with less distortion. Unless I'm wrong I understand that the higher RMS rating and senstivity in DB is what determaines the loudness as well as the amp. But if you have an amp that perfectly powers a set of speakers what really does the sensitivity and RMS rating really mean?

Peak: 540 watts per system / 270 watts each side | RMS: 180 watts per system / 90 watts each side

Frequency Response: 45 - 23000 Hz

Sensitivity: 94 dB

 
Thought of a question while I'm waiting for my items to ship I wanted to tune my sub woofer and sub amp, although it'll probably change when I get my new head unit I figured I could at least tune the amp? It's a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D 500W Mono sub Amp. I was just wondering what steps I might follow to tune it. I tried looking up videos and just googling but my amp has a lot less adjustments then the ones people are using so It's pretty confusing on what they do or it just didn't really make sense.

Also a question about RMS rating for the new speakers I bought the (P660C 6 1/2"" (160mm) 2-way component system) Wondering if you might be willing to go into depth on really what this means when looking at a product. I don't really understand what allows speakers to go louder or handle more volume with less distortion. Unless I'm wrong I understand that the higher RMS rating and senstivity in DB is what determaines the loudness as well as the amp. But if you have an amp that perfectly powers a set of speakers what really does the sensitivity and RMS rating really mean?

Peak: 540 watts per system / 270 watts each side | RMS: 180 watts per system / 90 watts each side

Frequency Response: 45 - 23000 Hz

Sensitivity: 94 dB
RMS is the proper power numbers, any other number they list is garbage specs to trick noobs. RMS is just what kind of power a speaker can take, not really a measurement of loudness.

sensitivity IS a measurement of how efficient/loud the speaker will get with the amount of power it takes in.

A speaker handling 150 watts rms but has the sensitivity rating of 82db vs a speaker handling 40 watts rms with a sensitivity rating of 106 db, the 2nd speaker will be much MUCH louder on 40 watts vs the other speaker on 150 watts.

However sensitivity is not everything brand name matters too, because whats the use of a speaker getting loud when it sounds like sh*t doing so? thats when product/brand knowledge and research on your part comes in. Google is your friend there.

Sonicelectronix has a few vids on gain setting on youtube with different methods that you can use.

 
RMS is the proper power numbers, any other number they list is garbage specs to trick noobs. RMS is just what kind of power a speaker can take, not really a measurement of loudness.
sensitivity IS a measurement of how efficient/loud the speaker will get with the amount of power it takes in.

A speaker handling 150 watts rms but has the sensitivity rating of 82db vs a speaker handling 40 watts rms with a sensitivity rating of 106 db, the 2nd speaker will be much MUCH louder on 40 watts vs the other speaker on 150 watts.

However sensitivity is not everything brand name matters too, because whats the use of a speaker getting loud when it sounds like sh*t doing so? thats when product/brand knowledge and research on your part comes in. Google is your friend there.

Sonicelectronix has a few vids on gain setting on youtube with different methods that you can use.
Hi, I've been researching about "DPS's" and I've watched a video on what they do but I'm still a bit confused. To start: Is a DSP an Active Crossover? I see really high end builds use an Audison Bit ten or Bit one and I'm really curious does every high end build use them? or not specifically audison but a dsp? I really couldn't find anything helpful on how to use them I was hoping you might be able to tell me what steps I might do if I added one to my system? how I hook everything up and what I do with the passive crossovers. When you buy a DSP is there anything else you need to use it? (besides a PC...) Really hoping you might be able to clarify these things and guide me in the direction of how to actually use a DSP.

 
Hi, I've been researching about "DPS's" and I've watched a video on what they do but I'm still a bit confused. To start: Is a DSP an Active Crossover? I see really high end builds use an Audison Bit ten or Bit one and I'm really curious does every high end build use them? or not specifically audison but a dsp? I really couldn't find anything helpful on how to use them I was hoping you might be able to tell me what steps I might do if I added one to my system? how I hook everything up and what I do with the passive crossovers. When you buy a DSP is there anything else you need to use it? (besides a PC...) Really hoping you might be able to clarify these things and guide me in the direction of how to actually use a DSP.
If you go dsp which costs a lot more, your results can be a lot better than most head unit setups on the market. If you put like 10+ hours of tuning into it. Usually 3 way front stage actuve capable plus subwoofer. Which means you can crossover midbass, midrange, tweeter and subwoofer along with time aligning each driver individually and individual EQ as well. Basically complete control ofver your audio setup which allows for a perfect tune if tuned right. Its very extensive and has a pretty big learning curve.

All you need to add one is the dsp itself, pc, the speaker drivers and the amp.

2 way active will just be tweeters and mids so a 4 channel amp would be adequate and would require 3 pairs of rcas from dsp to monoblock and 4 channle. 3 way active which is midbass, midrange and tweeter, youll need a 6 channel amp or a 4 channel amp and a smaller 2 channel for the tweeters. About 4 pairs of rcas needed for this

You will get signal from your current head unit(no need to swap) via one pair of RCA to the dsp, then with proper amount of rcas to the amps. Youll need to run wires for power, ground and remote. Then you tune with the PC. Thats it.

 
If you go dsp which costs a lot more, your results can be a lot better than most head unit setups on the market. If you put like 10+ hours of tuning into it. Usually 3 way front stage actuve capable plus subwoofer. Which means you can crossover midbass, midrange, tweeter and subwoofer along with time aligning each driver individually and individual EQ as well. Basically complete control ofver your audio setup which allows for a perfect tune if tuned right. Its very extensive and has a pretty big learning curve.
All you need to add one is the dsp itself, pc, the speaker drivers and the amp.

2 way active will just be tweeters and mids so a 4 channel amp would be adequate and would require 3 pairs of rcas from dsp to monoblock and 4 channle. 3 way active which is midbass, midrange and tweeter, youll need a 6 channel amp or a 4 channel amp and a smaller 2 channel for the tweeters. About 4 pairs of rcas needed for this

You will get signal from your current head unit(no need to swap) via one pair of RCA to the dsp, then with proper amount of rcas to the amps. Youll need to run wires for power, ground and remote. Then you tune with the PC. Thats it.
Awesome that actually cleared up most everything about DSP's. Only thing I'm a tiny bit confused at first when you said 3 way active I was assuming you meant that you would have 3 different crossover points between say a component system but now that I really read I'm assuming you mean literally tweeters, a 6.5 mid and then a 10" low up front? on top of your sub in the back, and rear door speakers? Or am I just getting confused?

So is Audison the Low key best DSP or are there others out there that people use just as much? If i really wanted to try out a DSP and went with Audison what's the big difference between the different products they have such as Audison Bit Ten, Audison Bit Ten D, Audison bit one, and Audison AV 5.1k HD (Which is $2k so I wouldn't buy).

 
Helix, Mosconi, Audison, now Hertz, ARC, ect. Many DSPs out there. Some have more options than others.

I had a Bit 1. It's a bit outdated now.

The Helix has the most useable software interface right now.

If you or whoever is setting it up don't understand how to use it the results will be bad.

It takes months to properly tune a car. Every time you listen to something different you will find things to correct. Once it's dialed in it will play everything right. It's sonic bliss.

You must understand how to use crossovers and the EQ completely and you need to understand how a response curve works.

 
Helix, Mosconi, Audison, now Hertz, ARC, ect. Many DSPs out there. Some have more options than others. I had a Bit 1. It's a bit outdated now.

The Helix has the most useable software interface right now.

If you or whoever is setting it up don't understand how to use it the results will be bad.

It takes months to properly tune a car. Every time you listen to something different you will find things to correct. Once it's dialed in it will play everything right. It's sonic bliss.

You must understand how to use crossovers and the EQ completely and you need to understand how a response curve works.
So how does someone go about picking a dsp? What features do you want or need? Also how would I go about learning how to use one and tune a car audio system?..

 
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