Upgrading factory audio

[BigCrab]

So I have a factory amplified system. I've decided I want to upgrade the whole thing. I don't want to retain anything from the factory system. Would I be correct in assuming that when I get a new head unit. And my own amps for the sub, replacement speakers in factory locations, and some additional mids/highs I can just continue the install like you would in a car without all these extra electronics. I keep looking and everyone keeps trying to sell me these adapters for the factory amp among other stuff. Not only does that over complicate the install. It cuts into the budget significantly.

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

First, your OEM systems use many different setups to accomplish what "they" think you want to hear. Your OEM setup might use 12 speakers to accomplish these things, you may need lf that depending on other factors. If you want' fairly unbiased help/suggestions (not motivated by sales quotas anyway) then I'd back it up a bit.

Start by listing the basics.

The year, make and model of you vehicle.

Since you don't care about retaining the features the OEM "infotainment" has, you might be able to use the OEM head unit for the sound signal source, but depending on which amplifier(s) you go with, you may or may not not need the wiring interface that some are trying to suggest.

These can add to the cost but in many instances, they also significantly improve the ability to shape the sound the systems will produce.

Goal. What is the objective? Loud at all cost, sound quality with modest volume or sound quality with the ability to really play loud too.

Connectivity. Bluetooth connectivity, streaming, CD/DVD playback options, where are you most likely to source your music?

Budget.

There are no shortage of people with experience in here that are happy to help you spend your $$$ but having that other information and your budget keeps it in line with that objective and a much higher probability that you will be happy with the outcome.

 

[BigCrab]

2015 hyundai veloster turbo.
This is my "get around" car so loud at all cost. I was going to keep it modest but we got a new car today so now this one can be obnoxious lol.
Bluetooth is my primary connection source at the moment.
I don't really have a set budget. I don't plan on this being done tomorrow so I can save and purchase as I go. I just don't want to sink money into preserving creature comforts and factory "quality" in a car that travels maybe 15 miles a week

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Okay, good start. Did the Veloster come with the "Dimension" sound system?

Are you wanting to try and retain the rear R/L panel 8" sub locations or do you have room for an enclosed sub in the rear hatch area?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I always like to qualify "loud at all cost".

Are you familiar with the sound of "Pro Style" equipment such as 6-8" pro mids and bullet tweeters? They can get ridiculously/dangerously loud but usually at the cost of sound quality, more geared towards SPL and competitive loud. Power is relatively inexpensive these days and you can get pretty darn loud (uncomfortably loud) and still great sound with efficient good quality (and fairly loud) drivers from reasonably priced components from companies like CDT (or Stevens if you want to shell out some serious $$$).

 

[HardofWhoring]

So I have a factory amplified system. I've decided I want to upgrade the whole thing. I don't want to retain anything from the factory system. Would I be correct in assuming that when I get a new head unit. And my own amps for the sub, replacement speakers in factory locations, and some additional mids/highs I can just continue the install like you would in a car without all these extra electronics. I keep looking and everyone keeps trying to sell me these adapters for the factory amp among other stuff. Not only does that over complicate the install. It cuts into the budget significantly.

I don't know your specific vehicle, and don't expect any general audio information does either, unless they specifically know your vehicle, or you went to get information from somewhere that does.

IN GENERAL ON OTHER VEHICLES, there are modules(/adapters) for several different things. They can retain factory warning chimes, if the noise comes out of your speakers. They can be needed to retain steering wheel controls, because mostly what those do is convert an analog signal from your vehicle's controls into a digital signal that your new head unit can understand. They can be used for media screens, navigation, or for converting a signal from your factory amp to your new head unit.

As for needing one for the amp, then no you won't. As for needing one for some other feature on your vehicle, you might.

Two of the companies that make these are Pac-audio and axxess.

Search by Vehicle - PAC

catalog.pac-audio.com

I see they have a few options; one being the steering wheel controls, and another being an amp. You should read over these. There's also no reason you can't add the steering wheel controls module, later on down the road, especially if you don't use it. You might lose some warning sounds such as lights, or doors, (if you enjoy those), not sure on your vehicle.

 

[BigCrab]

Okay, good start. Did the Veloster come with the "Dimension" sound system?

View attachment 55292

Are you wanting to try and retain the rear R/L panel 8" sub locations or do you have room for an enclosed sub in the rear hatch area?

Sorry I was away for a couple of days, but yes, I do have the dimension audio system and I actually already have a sub and amp in the rear hatch. I installed it a couple years back with a standard LOC. The factory 8" sub was blown when I bought the car so retaining it really doesn't matter.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

If you don't want to retain anything from the factory, then it's wide open. From what you indicate the SUB may be on the table too? What sub are you using and what is it powered by?

As for the sound, are you familiar with Pro (PA) style components? If not will steer clear of them as they are loud, but sometimes brutally, not daily driver loud in my opinion. That said, I would start looking at some of the HU's from Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, once you have established a budget for that piece, pick a few of of those that do the things that you want. That can help with the LOC, amplifier(s) and speakers which will follow.

Some things to consider, straight up passive system with an HU/LOC/Amplifier(s)/sub or are you considering something active like a DSP configuration?

 

[huberoy123 10+ year member]

When I stripped my factory system and started from scratch. I didn't need any adapters. I wired the new head unit wiring harness to the vehicle power, constant power (for memory and clock) and ground. I located the amplifier turn-on wire and ran it directly to the amplifier. The speaker connections were directly from the amplifier, so no adapters were necessary.