Upgrading my budget system [Help Wanted] 6/29/2016

[Jcdanible]

just do your own research, list out a bunch of amps that catch your eye with the price to match and we'll do a process of elimination. There's PLENTY of amps that will do what you ask of.

Do you have any thoughts on a T3 T2000 sub woofer? A guy on reddit is trying to sell me one, for $200 +Ship.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Do you have any thoughts on a T3 T2000 sub woofer? A guy on reddit is trying to sell me one, for $200 +Ship.

You need a custom ported box and about 2000 to 3000 watts for it. Its a good sub and will be a lot louder and hit a lot lower/ deeper. However your current amp wont tickle it and with a bigger amp, youll need electrical upgrades. Try to get 220 shipped. Id say youll be happy with a less power hungry sub.

 

[Jcdanible]

You need a custom ported box and about 2000 to 3000 watts for it. Its a good sub and will be a lot louder and hit a lot lower/ deeper. However your current amp wont tickle it and with a bigger amp, youll need electrical upgrades. Try to get 220 shipped. Id say youll be happy with a less power hungry sub.

Yeah, I'm just wondering what you think about the NVX 12" vs the Dayton 12 you reccomended? Also what's he huge difference between a super insanely "high end" and expensive sub and something like the Dayton or NVX? I've been looking at expensive JL but it just seems like once you spend a certain amount let's say around $200 anything after that is just paying for a name or something that has insane build quality but I'm wondering is it really worth it to buy something like T3 T2000? Or any expensive subs for that matter?

And what would you take? Dayton, NVX or T3 T2000? And would you do two or one? For a 4 door truck?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Yeah, I'm just wondering what you think about the NVX 12" vs the Dayton 12 you reccomended? Also what's he huge difference between a super insanely "high end" and expensive sub and something like the Dayton or NVX? I've been looking at expensive JL but it just seems like once you spend a certain amount let's say around $200 anything after that is just paying for a name or something that has insane build quality but I'm wondering is it really worth it to buy something like T3 T2000? Or any expensive subs for that matter?
And what would you take? Dayton, NVX or T3 T2000? And would you do two or one? For a 4 door truck?

sub choice will be determined by power, space and budget. Space and power determines what kind of sub you can buy so without figuring that out first, you are not in any position to be shopping for subs bro.

Need proper dimensions of what kind of enclosure you can fit back there. Box and sub loading aka the "install" is basically the most important part of your bass performance. You can have the best 30000 dollar sub in the world sound like complete trash when you have it in a poor install with a poorly designed box and poor sub loading and use of cabin gain.

For a truck, side ported is good, you looking to do under the seat or you just want to slap a box back there?

Jl W6 12s can be had for 150 used, pay anymore, you are getting buttrap3d.

Again with the T3, read my other post about it again more carefully and understand what it takes to run a big boy woofer.

 

[Jcdanible]

sub choice will be determined by power, space and budget. Space and power determines what kind of sub you can buy so without figuring that out first, you are not in any position to be shopping for subs bro.
Need proper dimensions of what kind of enclosure you can fit back there. Box and sub loading aka the "install" is basically the most important part of your bass performance. You can have the best 30000 dollar sub in the world sound like complete trash when you have it in a poor install with a poorly designed box and poor sub loading and use of cabin gain.

For a truck, side ported is good, you looking to do under the seat or you just want to slap a box back there?

Jl W6 12s can be had for 150 used, pay anymore, you are getting buttrap3d.

Again with the T3, read my other post about it again more carefully and understand what it takes to run a big boy woofer.

Sorry, I guess I'm just getting excited and trying to rush into things. I can take measurements now, But I'm wondering what exactly I'd be measuring..? Just the space I have for how deep, and tall the sub box can fit?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Sorry, I guess I'm just getting excited and trying to rush into things. I can take measurements now, But I'm wondering what exactly I'd be measuring..? Just the space I have for how deep, and tall the sub box can fit?

the max volume you are willing to give up to fit an enclosure

height x width x depth is needed. Along with your power. Enclosure size and design is based off the sub and power, if the sub calls for a big box and a lot of power and you buy it but only have enough room for a small enclosure and low power, you've basically shot yourself in the foot and will get garbage results no matter how good the sub is supposed to be.

just watch out man, this **** is worse than crack...

 

[Jcdanible]

the max volume you are willing to give up to fit an enclosure
height x width x depth is needed. Along with your power. Enclosure size and design is based off the sub and power, if the sub calls for a big box and a lot of power and you buy it but only have enough room for a small enclosure and low power, you've basically shot yourself in the foot and will get garbage results no matter how good the sub is supposed to be.

just watch out man, this **** is worse than crack...

Alrighty I'll get measurements. And darn I wish I would've stuck with crack...

 

[Jcdanible]

the max volume you are willing to give up to fit an enclosure
height x width x depth is needed. Along with your power. Enclosure size and design is based off the sub and power, if the sub calls for a big box and a lot of power and you buy it but only have enough room for a small enclosure and low power, you've basically shot yourself in the foot and will get garbage results no matter how good the sub is supposed to be.

just watch out man, this **** is worse than crack...

Looks like I can go about 12" tall, 20" deep and width can be really as wide as the seats are.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Looks like I can go about 12" tall, 20" deep and width can be really as wide as the seats are.

need actual inches for the width bro.

Along with what kind of power you are going for amp wise

 

[Jcdanible]

need actual inches for the width bro.

At least 20".

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

At least 20".

precise numbers. You cannot guestimate on the dimensions or else you'll have a ton of regret

 

[Jcdanible]

precise numbers. You cannot guestimate on the dimensions or else you'll have a ton of regret

Ok, I measured with extreme precision this time and took into account a few different measurements.

47" from floor to roof

38" from tallest point on seat to the roof

7" from my head hitting roof, and I'm 6ft tall.

20" deep

22" wide

7" tall, from floor to seat. With a 3-4" lift 10-11" tall.

I'm going to assume it's safe to lift the seat 3-4" I've measured and that seems reasonable for people to sit at.

Also a few different options: Taking out the middle console and using that as a single 12" box, or doing something behind the seats, there is quite a bit of room.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ok, I measured with extreme precision this time and took into account a few different measurements.47" from floor to roof

38" from tallest point on seat to the roof

7" from my head hitting roof, and I'm 6ft tall.

20" deep

22" wide

7" tall, from floor to seat. With a 3-4" lift 10-11" tall.

I'm going to assume it's safe to lift the seat 3-4" I've measured and that seems reasonable for people to sit at.

Also a few different options: Taking out the middle console and using that as a single 12" box, or doing something behind the seats, there is quite a bit of room.

you'd want it in the far back as possible however if you want to do it under the seats, it'll be two 10s or 8s.

here's a sample build

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62JWMSPfrj4http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62JWMSPfrj4

 

[Jcdanible]

you'd want it in the far back as possible however if you want to do it under the seats, it'll be two 10s or 8s.
here's a sample build

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62JWMSPfrj4http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62JWMSPfrj4

I'm really wanting it under the seat because I think It would look really nice and I would imagine has better performance but I could put it behind the seats so people don't kick the subs, or spill something on them, or damage them in any way. I think now, I'm really confused on how many subs, and the size. I was really wanting to go with a single 12", but what's even the difference between doing two 10's, four 8's? or a single 12"? Can someone really sit in a car and be able to tell the number of subs and the size..? And what's the big difference anyways...?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm really wanting it under the seat because I think It would look really nice and I would imagine has better performance but I could put it behind the seats so people don't kick the subs, or spill something on them, or damage them in any way. I think now, I'm really confused on how many subs, and the size. I was really wanting to go with a single 12", but what's even the difference between doing two 10's, four 8's? or a single 12"? Can someone really sit in a car and be able to tell the number of subs and the size..? And what's the big difference anyways...?

just cone area basically how loud you can get

However with the enclosure, you only have 12 height. subtract wood thickness which is 1.5 because top and bottom thickness is 0.75 each with 3/4 ply or mdf. and you only have 10.5 inches left so fitting a 12 is a no go with that height. You pick the sub size that works best to your space to get the best enclosure design possible. Not whether you want to run 12s or not.

watch the video and see what it takes to build the box under the seat.