Upgrading my budget system [Help Wanted] 6/29/2016

[quote name='Jeffdachef']those are pretty high prices for the gear you have especially since you arent shipping it anywhere or traveling far...


If the soundqubed is too expensive the only thing left is pyle pros

Pyle PPA6 6-1/2" PA Speaker

I know its pyle.... but its actually one of their better "diamond in the rough" items. Some members had success with them @Popwarhomie[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I guess I can give him a way better price on that stuff, I just bought the Rockford amp though and I want to get a decent amount for it but everything else I can lower.
I'll see what he thinks...
 
[quote name='jeffdachef']those are pretty high prices for the gear you have especially since you arent shipping it anywhere or traveling far...


If the soundqubed is too expensive the only thing left is pyle pros

pyle ppa6 6-1/2" pa speaker

i know its pyle.... But its actually one of their better "diamond in the rough" items. Some members had success with them @popwarhomie[/quote]
ok
 
Last edited by a moderator:
[quote name='Jeffdachef']those are pretty high prices for the gear you have especially since you arent shipping it anywhere or traveling far...


If the soundqubed is too expensive the only thing left is pyle pros

Pyle PPA6 6-1/2" PA Speaker

I know its pyle.... but its actually one of their better "diamond in the rough" items. Some members had success with them @Popwarhomie[/QUOTE]


Back, for a few questions!... So I've finally saved up some money to spend on a new amp and potentially new speakers. I was still thinking about getting the NVX JAD800.4 AMP but since my plan is still to replace my components with the Crescendo UN-65 6.5" and Crescendo FT1 tweeter I was wondering If the NVX JAD800.4 amp would still be perfect for powering those 4 speakers? It's rated at 125 watts x 4 chan, but the tweeters are rated at 80W RMS and the 6.5 Loudspeaker is rated at 150W RMS. I want to use the 6.5" speakers to their full potential (150W) but I also don't want to over power the Tweeters at 80W RMS. What are your thoughts? And is there a different amp that would work better? Or a different setup that could work better? Maybe two amps? Maybe a bigger more expensive amp? IDK, Thanks!
 
Back, for a few questions!... So I've finally saved up some money to spend on a new amp and potentially new speakers. I was still thinking about getting the NVX JAD800.4 AMP but since my plan is still to replace my components with the Crescendo UN-65 6.5" and Crescendo FT1 tweeter I was wondering If the NVX JAD800.4 amp would still be perfect for powering those 4 speakers? It's rated at 125 watts x 4 chan, but the tweeters are rated at 80W RMS and the 6.5 Loudspeaker is rated at 150W RMS. I want to use the 6.5" speakers to their full potential (150W) but I also don't want to over power the Tweeters at 80W RMS. What are your thoughts? And is there a different amp that would work better? Or a different setup that could work better? Maybe two amps? Maybe a bigger more expensive amp? IDK, Thanks!
to be honest man, I'd put every last bit of that JAD amp into your mids. get a small cheap two channel amp for the super tweeters because with super tweeters man, even 20 or 30 watts to them will get your ear bleeding. Its not a matter of how much power the super tweets can handle, its how much pain your ears can handle because those will rip right into your ears.

Its not 125 watts its 175 watts bro. It does way more than it claims.

Still you can just keep it simple and do the tweets and the mids on that JAD 800.4. You just need to lower the gain. Its not like you need to use ALL of the watts. Thats what a gain knob is for. You can keep the gain knob at zero and you can even lower the speaker level settings on the head unit as well By the time you are done, the tweeter can see less than 1 actual watt of power if you wanted..

 
to be honest man, I'd put every last bit of that JAD amp into your mids. get a small cheap two channel amp for the super tweeters because with super tweeters man, even 20 or 30 watts to them will get your ear bleeding. Its not a matter of how much power the super tweets can handle, its how much pain your ears can handle because those will rip right into your ears.
Its not 125 watts its 175 watts bro. It does way more than it claims.

Still you can just keep it simple and do the tweets and the mids on that JAD 800.4. You just need to lower the gain. Its not like you need to use ALL of the watts. Thats what a gain knob is for. You can keep the gain knob at zero and you can even lower the speaker level settings on the head unit as well By the time you are done, the tweeter can see less than 1 actual watt of power if you wanted..
Awesome, so If I wanted to run the Loudspeakers off of their own amp should I still look into purchasing the JAD 800.4? And then what would be a good amp to run the super tweeters off of?

Thanks!

 
Awesome, so If I wanted to run the Loudspeakers off of their own amp should I still look into purchasing the JAD 800.4? And then what would be a good amp to run the super tweeters off of?
Thanks!
dude just keep it simple and stick to the original plan. No need to think too much about it. I'm running the ppi version of that amp straight to my tweets and i have not needed to use all 145 of the watts and my tweets never come close to blowing. Keep in mind i need it loud enough to keep up with 4 18s bro.

 
dude just keep it simple and stick to the original plan. No need to think too much about it. I'm running the ppi version of that amp straight to my tweets and i have not needed to use all 145 of the watts and my tweets never come close to blowing. Keep in mind i need it loud enough to keep up with 4 18s bro.
I'm sorry I'm confused by what you're trying to say. Are you saying I should pickup the JAD 800.4 and run the tweets and 6.5s on it? And see where that gets me?

 
Ok, I'm going to purchase my amp, wondering If I should take the NVX JAD800.4, The Polk Audio PA D4000.4 (PAD4000.4) or the Precision Power PPI P900.4?
nvx end of story. They are all hertz clones and nvx did better on the amplifier dyno than the ppi. polk's not tested for true power but the nvx does 175 watts per channel at 4 ohms which is crazy.

 
nvx end of story. They are all hertz clones and nvx did better on the amplifier dyno than the ppi. polk's not tested for true power but the nvx does 175 watts per channel at 4 ohms which is crazy.
So, I still haven't received the amp because the shipping is having some issues but I have a few general questions I thought of.

1. So How do you know how long you can run your amp (Play music) say you go on a road trip and you play your music full volume for 6 hours would you have problems with the amp over-heating or the speakers having issues? So in my case with the new NVX amp and my speakers/head unit If it was setup properly would you even have to worry about how long and loud you can play music?

2. So I understand with subs the bigger the cone obviously the louder it will get (a 12" vs a 10") the 12 is going to get louder. But I was wondering what's the difference between a high-end 12" sub with a good amp and a crappy 12" sub with the same amp? Will they essentially get just as loud because it's the same size? Or does nicer build also usually have to do with getting louder? What made me think of this question is that my friend has some crappy subs (they were in his car before he got it) He was told he has two 12s and the box is ported and that all seems fine, it's running off a BOSS amp which is disappointing but anyways his subs don't get even half as loud as mine and mine aren't that nice they are just newer and have a nice amp. They aren't clean either just super muddy and It's pretty hard to explain but basically I was just wondering what determines how loud subs can get other than actual cone area.

3. So the same friend ^^^^ His subs just randomly started cutting out and It doesn't surprise me because his Subs are trash and so is his amp. He also didn't have them properly tuned and the HU is a piece of garbage as well. The question Is what's a very, very cheap way to replace his system. He really wants to use his trunk more and the box takes up a TON of space. I was thinking a single 12" setup properly with a nice amp would be perfect, I know a NICE single 12" will sound better, and get a lot louder than his current setup and he'd save space. Do you think a single 12" would work? If so what would be a budget 12" to get?

Thanks, I thought of these questions over the last couple weeks and It's been driving me crazy.

 
So, I still haven't received the amp because the shipping is having some issues but I have a few general questions I thought of.
1. So How do you know how long you can run your amp (Play music) say you go on a road trip and you play your music full volume for 6 hours would you have problems with the amp over-heating or the speakers having issues? So in my case with the new NVX amp and my speakers/head unit If it was setup properly would you even have to worry about how long and loud you can play music?

2. So I understand with subs the bigger the cone obviously the louder it will get (a 12" vs a 10") the 12 is going to get louder. But I was wondering what's the difference between a high-end 12" sub with a good amp and a crappy 12" sub with the same amp? Will they essentially get just as loud because it's the same size? Or does nicer build also usually have to do with getting louder? What made me think of this question is that my friend has some crappy subs (they were in his car before he got it) He was told he has two 12s and the box is ported and that all seems fine, it's running off a BOSS amp which is disappointing but anyways his subs don't get even half as loud as mine and mine aren't that nice they are just newer and have a nice amp. They aren't clean either just super muddy and It's pretty hard to explain but basically I was just wondering what determines how loud subs can get other than actual cone area.

3. So the same friend ^^^^ His subs just randomly started cutting out and It doesn't surprise me because his Subs are trash and so is his amp. He also didn't have them properly tuned and the HU is a piece of garbage as well. The question Is what's a very, very cheap way to replace his system. He really wants to use his trunk more and the box takes up a TON of space. I was thinking a single 12" setup properly with a nice amp would be perfect, I know a NICE single 12" will sound better, and get a lot louder than his current setup and he'd save space. Do you think a single 12" would work? If so what would be a budget 12" to get?

Thanks, I thought of these questions over the last couple weeks and It's been driving me crazy.
1: My 4 channel can run indefinitely. My big 10k sub amp needs cooling upgrades if its 90-100 degree weather, too much current is going through it. With smaller sub amps i've owned, I could run it indefinitely as well. by indefinitely meaning from orange county to San Francisco which is a 7-8 hour trip.

2 and 3: A better 12 will have more motor force and power handling capabilities however if you dont have the proper power to fully power it, you need an efficient enclosure to compensate or else the lower power rated sub will get louder with a less than optimal box. Every other factor determines how loud a sub is. EVERY factor, mainly the box and how the port is interacting with the vehicle cabin and cabin gain. I'd work on his install first before swapping out gear. Sounds like a hack job install. His gear should work fine but sounds like its poorly setup. You can have a 6000$ sub in a sh*t box and install sound like complete and utter garbage and have a 15 dollar flea market speaker sound beyond amazing in a proper box and setup. There's WAY more to subwoofers than just buying good subs and throwing it in whatever pre-made box you buy from any retailer.

 
1: My 4 channel can run indefinitely. My big 10k sub amp needs cooling upgrades if its 90-100 degree weather, too much current is going through it. With smaller sub amps i've owned, I could run it indefinitely as well. by indefinitely meaning from orange county to San Francisco which is a 7-8 hour trip.
2 and 3: A better 12 will have more motor force and power handling capabilities however if you dont have the proper power to fully power it, you need an efficient enclosure to compensate or else the lower power rated sub will get louder with a less than optimal box. Every other factor determines how loud a sub is. EVERY factor, mainly the box and how the port is interacting with the vehicle cabin and cabin gain. I'd work on his install first before swapping out gear. Sounds like a hack job install. His gear should work fine but sounds like its poorly setup. You can have a 6000$ sub in a sh*t box and install sound like complete and utter garbage and have a 15 dollar flea market speaker sound beyond amazing in a proper box and setup. There's WAY more to subwoofers than just buying good subs and throwing it in whatever pre-made box you buy from any retailer.
Thank you very much, I didn't realize I hadn't responded to your post reply. The amp FINALLY, Gets in this next week so I will be installing that and going active! Also I wanted to buy a bass gain knob, and I totally forgot to when I bought the amp, But I was checking out this one NVX XBRC Universal Remote Level Control for Car Amplifier/Amp Is there a big difference in knobs like these? Or is it pretty straight forward?

 
Thank you very much, I didn't realize I hadn't responded to your post reply. The amp FINALLY, Gets in this next week so I will be installing that and going active! Also I wanted to buy a bass gain knob, and I totally forgot to when I bought the amp, But I was checking out this one NVX XBRC Universal Remote Level Control for Car Amplifier/Amp Is there a big difference in knobs like these? Or is it pretty straight forward?
pretty straight forward.

 
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