up front battery ?

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

Most battery companies include the battery posts when they list the height.

And if he had a hard time trying to charge his yellow top then maybe it had a bad cell from the factory, he should have had it exchanged for a good one. And every Kinetik is just as good as the next one, only difference is the capacity of them. This is just an opinion of someone that doesn't like Kinetiks.

 

[bk12321 10+ year member]

Most battery companies include the battery posts when they list the height.
And if he had a hard time trying to charge his yellow top then maybe it had a bad cell from the factory, he should have had it exchanged for a good one. And every Kinetik is just as good as the next one, only difference is the capacity of them. This is just an opinion of someone that doesn't like Kinetiks.

they tend to be a little overpriced IMO, but they do their job.

powermasters and dekas are good batteries

 

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

they tend to be a little overpriced IMO, but they do their job.
powermasters and dekas are good batteries

Kinetiks are expensive?

An HC1400 for $200 shipped

An HC1800 for $220 shipped

An HC2000 for $250 shipped

An HC2400 for $310 shipped

These aren't too bad considering what they are. I was looking into an Odyssey 1750 for $275 plus shipping, thats a great battery too but it's also expensive.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

im gona do a yellow top up front . so i just take my batt out and put in thats it? sorry or dumb question inever put in a yellow top or anew battery i never had to i only been driving for a little bit .

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

Once you start running 2k RMS expect to need to install a second battery to prevent dimming and help level out the voltage. This would be with any battery you choose to go under your hood, but more so with a Yellowtop.

 

[boomzilla 10+ year member]

im gona do a yellow top up front . so i just take my batt out and put in thats it? sorry or dumb question inever put in a yellow top or anew battery i never had to i only been driving for a little bit .

yes, you take the old one out, put the new in

then for a second batt in the back, you run the positve to the back just like like you did before but for the second battery in the back.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

ok i got back from the stores aid dont sell yellow tops nor does autozone. i need a 58 series battery. if i go with the Kinetik 4000 will that fit my car like the yellow top is made for my car? and how would the 1400 be as a starter batt. im gona do one battery for now

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

only battery in my mind that is decent from kinetik is the hc1800& up anything under that is pure garbage and you might as well by a walmart batt. honestly hc1400 for the money isnt worth a shit. yellow tops are cool. only problem ive had is they are hard to charge. other then that they are awesome batterys. i currently run a EXIDE ORBITAL , its probly the best battery ive ran for an underhood

i ran a 3 yr old 1400 against 2 under 1 year old "higher max amp" batteries and i couldn't tell a difference by ear or an rta or db meter but the smaller batteries died alot faster and from that stand point (engine off) took longer to recharge lol. i have also compared that same 1400 when new to a 2 yr old group d34 optima on a 500+ watt class A/B amp (vga 500.4). Both as a single battery set up under the hood. key on they sounded the same key off it started to lose its voltage faster than the 1400 (soundstream vga amps if the voltage gets low will squeal like a pig alot like their reference amps do). I don't like optima red tops either as one cost me a top 5 at IASCA World Finals in 97.

CA and CCA ratings do not directly convert into an audio power spec. those tests are a constant non variable, non reactive load for 30 seconds down to 7.2 V in which there is NO concern for keeping the battery at 10v or above and in MANY/most cases the battery drops below 10v (or a usable voltage) within

i have also messed around with running nearly 1700 watts of rated power (1670 to be exact) with my 1400 as the only/primary battery on a stock alt big 3 (positive in 4 ga battery to chassis is in 0 ga) and didnt get anything huge as far as dimming goes . I had to have headlights and neon on to get any dimming and that was with the fan on 1 notch from high to music and i never reved up the engine. I would love to do a longer test on that portion but im not going to run around with a 24" amp on my seat or passenger side floor not bolted down for a week //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif i have too many projects going on where i need that space + I don't think my friend would appriciate me beating the shit out of his M3 sub that he has since sold. This test didnt take into account actual current or impedence rise (im sure i have plenty though lol) but was all based on clear audioable differences like a D2 M3 sub is louder (VERY noticeable) with a fusion 20001 amp in the same box

as an atlas 12" being powered with 400 ish watts off 2 bridged channels. i then took the other 2 channels of that amp and ran my fronts to run active.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

ok ummm thanks im still trying to find what will be a drop in like a oem battery. ithink my car calls for a series 58

 

[kovemaster559 5,000+ posts]

i ran a 3 yr old 1400 against 2 under 1 year old "higher max amp" batteries and i couldn't tell a difference by ear or an rta or db meter but the smaller batteries died alot faster and from that stand point (engine off) took longer to recharge lol. i have also compared that same 1400 when new to a 2 yr old group d34 optima on a 500+ watt class A/B amp (vga 500.4). Both as a single battery set up under the hood. key on they sounded the same key off it started to lose its voltage faster than the 1400 (soundstream vga amps if the voltage gets low will squeal like a pig alot like their reference amps do). I don't like optima red tops either as one cost me a top 5 at IASCA World Finals in 97.
CA and CCA ratings do not directly convert into an audio power spec. those tests are a constant non variable, non reactive load for 30 seconds down to 7.2 V in which there is NO concern for keeping the battery at 10v or above and in MANY/most cases the battery drops below 10v (or a usable voltage) within

i have also messed around with running nearly 1700 watts of rated power (1670 to be exact) with my 1400 as the only/primary battery on a stock alt big 3 (positive in 4 ga battery to chassis is in 0 ga) and didnt get anything huge as far as dimming goes . I had to have headlights and neon on to get any dimming and that was with the fan on 1 notch from high to music and i never reved up the engine. I would love to do a longer test on that portion but im not going to run around with a 24" amp on my seat or passenger side floor not bolted down for a week //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif i have too many projects going on where i need that space + I don't think my friend would appriciate me beating the shit out of his M3 sub that he has since sold. This test didnt take into account actual current or impedence rise (im sure i have plenty though lol) but was all based on clear audioable differences like a D2 M3 sub is louder (VERY noticeable) with a fusion 20001 amp in the same box

as an atlas 12" being powered with 400 ish watts off 2 bridged channels. i then took the other 2 channels of that amp and ran my fronts to run active.

all i know is 200 shipped for less then 50 AH is a rip off i paid wayless for the batterys i am selling and have a higher AH then the 1400. honestly for the money y get a 1400 just up it to the 1800. btw i dont hate kinetik. i just dont use the smaller lines of their equiptment. yes their 2400 is a nice battery and up to the 1800 is a great battery as well but this is just my opinion since my 600 blew up ans swelled up and was tosses. for my money if i was going to get another battery id get the yellow top before i get a 1400. my yellow top died after 2 years of abuse and neglect , yellow top is a good bat durable and last a good while. but again i look at specs and kinetik doesnt offer detailed info a on their batterys , they offer AH rates but dont specify at what rate or anything. another reason why i dont use them . power masters is awesome. exide has done me well ,. interstae is another , optima, oddyse,deka. c&d technologies, all good in my book, and 1800+ from kinetik. again i do like my system loud as shit and i do drive it daily so all these batterys have proven to be effective .

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

ok ummm thanks im still trying to find what will be a drop in like a oem battery. ithink my car calls for a series 58

i had to make a bracket for my 1400 ...took 10 minutes and 5 bucks LOL. 1 threaded rod, 6 nuts that thread onto the rod, 4 lock washers and a hunk of back strap matterial wrapped in pvc tape.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

all i know is 200 shipped for less then 50 AH is a rip off i paid wayless for the batterys i am selling and have a higher AH then the 1400. honestly for the money y get a 1400 just up it to the 1800. btw i dont hate kinetik. i just dont use the smaller lines of their equiptment. yes their 2400 is a nice battery and up to the 1800 is a great battery as well but this is just my opinion since my 600 blew up ans swelled up and was tosses. for my money if i was going to get another battery id get the yellow top before i get a 1400. my yellow top died after 2 years of abuse and neglect , yellow top is a good bat durable and last a good while. but again i look at specs and kinetik doesnt offer detailed info a on their batterys , they offer AH rates but dont specify at what rate or anything. another reason why i dont use them . power masters is awesome. exide has done me well ,. interstae is another , optima, oddyse,deka. c&d technologies, all good in my book, and 1800+ from kinetik. again i do like my system loud as shit and i do drive it daily so all these batterys have proven to be effective .

1400 is above 50 AH and the other 2 (the 600 and 800) can be had for under 200 shipped. 1400 is also much bigger than an 800...

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

im looking around i cant find what would fit

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

group 58's are 9 7/16" L x 7-1/4" W x 7" H roughly

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

well its a small car i hope thats right