up front battery ?

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

How much does the battery play a roll in when it comes to corrent draw . with a 200 amp alt and a lets say a durlast gold battery would that combo be ok? i see some nice batterys that are really made for audio but there lik 200 and better. what do u guys think does the battery up front play a big part along side a high out put alt? i dont wana do it half *** . with the big 3 and ho alt haveing like a 50 doller battery got me thinking. thanks

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[pr-festiva 10+ year member]

how much power are you planing on running?.

 

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

what do u guys think does the battery up front play a big part along side a high out put alt?

A good deep cycle battery is going to be a lot better than any standard lead acid battery. With a decent system your going to drawing a good amount of current from your battery, the better the battery then the less your alt has to work at keeping the battery fully charged. With a standard battery it's going to have maybe a 600 CCA rating, with an Optima Yellow Top, they have 870. If you step it up to a good Kinetik then you can have 1400 amps, up to 2600 amps. To keep it loud and put less strain on the system a HO alt along with a deep cycle battery and the Big 3 is the only way to go.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

im gona do the big 3 and a ho 200 amp alt. i found a durlast gold is 610 cold cranking amps and 760 cranking amps is that good with the big 3 and ho alt? thanks

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

I'd spend more on the battery and less on the alt.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

well at allmost 2000 rms i think i would need a alt as well

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Here's what you have to consider...

The alt only produces the current demanded from it. It cannot react instantly to an increase in demand. Your amps don't produce 2000w continuously and therefore don't present a continuous current demand to the alt. Musical transients typically are about as long as the response time of the alt. What that means is that by the time the alt responds to the increased current draw from the transient, the transient is already over and the current demand has gone back to its lower level. During that transient, the only thing maintaining the voltage of the system is the battery (or batteries). The battery will float at whatever voltage the alt is charging at and when the transient current demand exceeds the alt's output, the battery will discharge at that higher voltage initially. When the transient is over, the alt only needs to replace the small amount of charge drained from the battery during that transient. Most people on here have WAY more alt than they need. Most systems used with music don't even need an alt upgrade or at most a very modest one. 200A alt for a 2000w system is way overkill especially when the battery is doing the work on the musical peaks.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

ok i understand that pretty well. i

 

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

I have a little over 2200 watts in my daily driver system and only recently changed over to a HO Alt. The stock 105 amp alt I had worked fine and never gave me any problems. I did the Big 3 upgrade first, then added a second battery two years later and never really needed to add the HO alt. I only added HO alt for doing competitions.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

see u guys have like better stock alts. i got only a 75 and if i get a 95 amp alt that what i found at auto zone its like 175 dollers. i might as well get a 200 . if i hold off on the alt and get a better battery up front lets say a yellow top for example . would i have to replace my termnals or can i just unhook and rehook up the terminal?. i wana do the battery upgrade along with the big 3 on the same day

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

105A may not be better than 70A depending on the car. Some cars use more current just to stay running than others. There's no real way to say that one alt can support a bigger system just because the alt itself is bigger.

Say for example that you take two cars and install HO alts in each. Car A came with a 70A alt from the factory and the upgrade is to 130A and Car B came with a 120A alt upgraded to 160A. Which could support a bigger system?

 

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

The group 34/78 Yellow Tops have side and top mount battery terminals. So you could go with one of those if you have enough room for it. I just dropped a Kinetik 1800 under the hood of my Blazer, I need side mount terminals because it's a GM, but Kinetik makes a side mount adapter so I could have a good battery like a Kinetik and still have the side mount terminals I need and fit the largest battery I could. Some of the smaller Kinetiks are about the same price as a Yellow Top and hold a lot more current.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

i can use a top terminal battery. i dont know what yellow top would fit for my car. i dont mind geting the Kinetik1400 off of amazon its 205 shipped. and i could get it in like 5 days from this thrusday that when i doing the ordering. im kinda getin nervous i wana make sure i buy the right stuff. i got 700 this week and 650 in 2 weeks . im gona blow all of it. i could use a new pair of shoes. ahahhha

 

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

If the Kinetik 1400 will fit then I'd go with one of those before the Yellow Top. Measure your current battery and then measure any extra space you have around it, sometimes you might have an extra inch of space on all sides, if thats the case then find the biggest Kinetik thats going to fit in that space.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

ok thanks