Understanding Ohms and Amp channels.. HELP!

just wattages. you get a 600 watt amp and wire it at 1 ohm and get 600 out of it.. wire it at 2 and get 300. less watts=lessboom=lessdistortion. then you could have an sq type setup wire it at 4 and not have much punch but have clean bass.
Respectfully, no. Depends on what the amp does @ what ohm. Some amps will give a certain wattage regardless of ohm load, some will give more @ 4 ohm than @ 1 ohm, some aren't 1 ohm stable.

Your last sentence is also flawed, but not relevant enough to OP's inquiry to correct.

Once again, this is not meant to be an attack or offensive; simply informative. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Respectfully' date=' no. Depends on what the amp does @ what ohm. Some amps will give a certain wattage regardless of ohm load, some will give more @ 4 ohm than @ 1 ohm, some aren't 1 ohm stable.
Your last sentence is also flawed, but not relevant enough to OP's inquiry to correct.

Once again, this is not meant to be an attack or offensive; simply informative. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/quote']

there are always exceptions.. more often then not the higher the load the less output the lower the ohm load the more output.
 
im looking to feel the subs hit.. thats about it im not worried about vibrating my mirrors off or anything just a light feeling and good compelementing bass... ill be running the system in a SUV im also looking for it to last i dont wanna have to keep spending money on blown woofers XD, although i read that if you go down to 1 ohm some subwoofers cant handle it so is it good to match the subs ohms and amp ohms to insure that there is no heat buildup?
Gah. The impedance your amplifier sees has no effect on the subwoofer other than how much power it receives. If you just follow our advice you won't have worry about blowing anything up. For your case I think the most cost efficient route would be to get the Dual 4 ohm subs because you can wire them down to 1 ohm and there's a lot of mono amps that will give you the power you need at 1 ohm. (i.e. look for an amplifier that outputs at least 600w at 1 ohm).

 
im looking to feel the subs hit.. thats about it im not worried about vibrating my mirrors off or anything just a light feeling and good compelementing bass... ill be running the system in a SUV im also looking for it to last i dont wanna have to keep spending money on blown woofers XD, although i read that if you go down to 1 ohm some subwoofers cant handle it so is it good to match the subs ohms and amp ohms to insure that there is no heat buildup?
there will be heat buildup no matter what. But, the ohm load means nothing to the subwoofer and means EVERYTHING to your amplifier. There are so many voice coil options available out there that you can get anything to get the final load you need. It all depends on what amp you have or are going to purchase. Tell us this, and we will tell you what type of subs to purchase.

 
Gah. The impedance your amplifier sees has no effect on the subwoofer other than how much power it receives. If you just follow our advice you won't have worry about blowing anything up. For your case I think the most cost efficient route would be to get the Dual 4 ohm subs because you can wire them down to 1 ohm and there's a lot of mono amps that will give you the power you need at 1 ohm. (i.e. look for an amplifier that outputs at least 600w at 1 ohm).
this

 
*sigh*

Anyhow, to OP: Sub's thermal and mechanical abilities to handle power are not dictated directly by their impedance, but by the amount of power they are seeing, the enclosure, and a few other variables.

Thus, wiring them @ 1 ohm, 2 ohm, or 4 ohm, etc will not have audible effects or put them at risk as long as the power lines up appropriately, the enclosure is proper, and there is not excess heat caused by clipping.

 
*sigh*
Anyhow' date=' to OP: Sub's thermal and mechanical abilities to handle power are not dictated directly by their impedance, but by the amount of power they are seeing, the enclosure, and a few other variables.

Thus, wiring them @ 1 ohm, 2 ohm, or 4 ohm, etc will not have audible effects or put them at risk as long as the power lines up appropriately, the enclosure is proper, and there is not excess heat caused by clipping.[/quote']

**** i didnt see his post. I was not talking about the subs. I was talking about the amp and power ranges on different ohm loads. and im really HIIIIIIIIIIgh
 
im looking to feel the subs hit.. thats about it im not worried about vibrating my mirrors off or anything just a light feeling and good compelementing bass... ill be running the system in a SUV im also looking for it to last i dont wanna have to keep spending money on blown woofers XD, although i read that if you go down to 1 ohm some subwoofers cant handle it so is it good to match the subs ohms and amp ohms to insure that there is no heat buildup?
Its not really the subs you have to worry about as long as its done right. The lower the impedence, the larger hit it takes on your car's electrical system, and the less efficient the amp is. A lot of people like 1ohm cause its generally the cheapest way to make the most power. To run any decent numbers at .5 ohm, you would need to upgrade the electrical system in the car. To run 2ohm, amps are generally more $/watt.

Also, just because the subs add up to 600w, doesnt mean get a 600w amp. Its good to have headroom, so the amp doesnt have to work as hard and should last longer. Also, after imp rise, efficiency, voltage drop, etc... your are losing out on power there too.

 
Its not really the subs you have to worry about as long as its done right. The lower the impedence, the larger hit it takes on your car's electrical system, and the less efficient the amp is. A lot of people like 1ohm cause its generally the cheapest way to make the most power. To run any decent numbers at .5 ohm, you would need to upgrade the electrical system in the car. To run 2ohm, amps are generally more $/watt.
Also, just because the subs add up to 600w, doesnt mean get a 600w amp. Its good to have headroom, so the amp doesnt have to work as hard and should last longer. Also, after imp rise, efficiency, voltage drop, etc... your are losing out on power there too.
this

 
okay so lets say i get this amp

Kicker - ZX Series 900W Class AB Bridgeable 2-Channel MOSFET Amplifier

and these subs

Kicker - 12" Dual 2-Ohm Subwoofers with Enclosure

i would be wiring at 2 ohms correct? because the amp doesnt have 1 ohm capibility ( they are on bestbuy . com it wouldnt let me post direct links //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

( i know you dont have to have the same name brand amp and name woofer but i just like uniformity.. unless i can get something much cheaper :p)

 
idk it seems easier to set up.. 2 subs 2 channels 1 for each subs.. i dont have to bridge channels like with a 4 channel and i have no idea how you would set up a single channel

 
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idk it seems easier to set up.. 2 subs 2 channels 1 for each subs.. i dont have to bridge channels like with a 4 channel and i have no idea how you would set up a single channel
With a 1-Channel you attach both subs to the same channel. Easy as it gets //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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