Trying to clean up a car audio door install

Slayer16102 Recruit
In an older install with alpine SPS 610-C's a shop did this.


After cleaning up this mess when I installed kicker CSC6.5's in the doors I now have this. There is hardly any bass whatsoever from the mids.

It seems like they cut two wires, then ran a new double set of wires off of each wire they cut. Was this the right way for them to do this?
Should they have used wirenuts that could be exposed to the elements?
What is that big black rubber coated thing thats hanging right over the speaker right in the way when the door panel is installed?
Should there be so many wire nuts and butt connectors to a door speaker install?

What's the best way to clean this up? A shop did this install two years ago I never would have imagined this would be behind my door panel. All of these splices are exposed to the weather that runs down thru the door panel.
IMG_1690 (1).JPG

If you look at all of the wires you will notice some are a little frayed too so I need to clean this up asap.
Any advice here would be appreciated. I am curious if they did this install correctly or was their a better way than what they did.

What is the best way to clean this up since I am only using a single 6.5 now

Is this neccessary to be in the loop at all?

Here is the original C5 corvette door setup, before all of the splicing that shop did.

It had an 8 inch sub in the doors and 3 inch tweeters factory.
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Slayer16102 Recruit
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Here is more photos with it all easier to see. What's needed and what's not. Why is there barely any midbass when only one of these two connections is hooked up shouldn't the speaker play normally with one? How do I clean these connections up and fix them?
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This is with the CSC654 installed. Keep in mind the secondary wire at the top was as shown behind the speaker it was not connected to the speaker.


Slayer16102 Recruit
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Solved. I cut out all the excess stuff and ran one single wire for the tan down to positive on the speaker and one single wire to the grey for the negative on the speaker.

If that big black rubber thing matters I can add it back to the loop again if needed it wasn't there with the default bose thing so I am really not sure what its for. The speakers seem to work fine without it.



Junior Member
Pharr, Texas
That big rubber thing is a bass blocker. Not needed. Just verify your polarities and all should be fine. I suggest using plastic baffles to protect the rear of the speakers from moisture.

hispls Veteran
5,000+ posts
10+ year member
Central Maine
The fact that that MDF is all melted indicates you're getting a bit of moisture in those doors. Plan around that if you're planning to rebuild some sort of mounting rings to fit the 6" woofer into the 8" holes and also plan for whatever you put in those doors to deteriorate due to the moisture or get creative in sealing.

That black tube thingie is some sort of passive crossover. Meant to separate low and high frequency signals to one of your speakers. A decent component set will have a little box style crossover and if you're going to coaxials those shouldn't be needed.

You don't need any fancy wire for that sort of application but I'd suggest pure copper and get something chunky enough that you have a bit of insulation there to protect from wear over time turning into a short. Ideally you may try to replace the wire all the way to your source just to be safe because you really don't know what the original installer(s) did and things can wear over time and insulation wearing thin on a wire in a car isn't uncommon and can result in catastrophic and permanent damage to your amp or head unit.


Aftermarket Specialist
5,000+ posts
To expand on Hispls post, lot's of moisture in that door. Make sure that ALL the drain holes at the bottom of each door are unobstructed to allow rain water drainage. They get clogged easily.
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