Trunk release also unlocks all doors

That's why you never take your car to a shop for car audio installs. Yes, there are some great shops out there that do great work. However, you will get those that can't even install a radio correctlly, let alone a car alarm/keyless entry system.

 
I just had an aftermarket keyless entry/remote start system installed. It seems to work OK, except that the trunk release on the aftermarket remote also unlocks all the doors. The door lock button will not lock them back unless I press the unlock button first.
The trunk release on the factory remote still works as it should. Did the shop wire something wrong? It's a DEI Avital 4103LX system.
Here is a novel idea.

Call DEI and ask if it may be a setting on the alarm.

 
Im at the shop now. They said the issue was the car's factory alarm, and that the aftermarket trunk release tells the factory alarm to disarm and unlock the doors. They said they would put a different system in for an extra $30, no labor charge, and that it should fix the problem. I said OK. If it turns out OK, I'll be happy.
I'm still not sure what to make about the trunk release relay output wire just being twisted and taped around a stripped wire. That doesn't sit well with me. Am I overreacting or is that acceptable?
that sounds a bit right. if i recall my dad put a keyless entry system in his van, and the directions said that if the vehicle is equipped with a theft alarm, that you also have to purchase a bypass for the alarm which is around 30 bucks

 
that sounds a bit right. if i recall my dad put a keyless entry system in his van, and the directions said that if the vehicle is equipped with a theft alarm, that you also have to purchase a bypass for the alarm which is around 30 bucks
Yeah, I had to have a transponder bypass because of the chip in the factory key. If there is some other kind of bypass that would fix my problem, I don't know what it is, and neither did they.

It turned out that the new alarm system didn't help, and they put the old one back in. The installer said he examined some schematics and found another way he might go about it, so I've made an appointment for a later date. Apparently these factory alarm systems aren't so easy to work around.

In any case, the shop put some serious time and energy into trying to make it right so far, and they're going to try some more. So however it turns out, they've been a stand-up business, and it looks like my fears were unfounded.

I just wish they soldered //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Update:

The entire system just quit working. It no longer responds to any input on the remote. Thankfully the factory remote still works fine.

In retrospect, I regret the decision to have this system installed. The shop has done well at trying to make things right, and I'm sure they'll be able to fix whatever the issue is now, but I should have saved my money and just taken my fat lazy butt outside to start the car myself. I already had a good working factory keyless entry system. The remote start feature was not worth this hassle and the money I've spent, not to mention I can't really trust the new system to work properly down the road.

The last remote start system I had installed was on a car with no factory keyless entry/no factory alarm. It worked well for a long time. But to anyone out there thinking about adding a system to a car that already has a factory alarm, I say don't mess with it. Just walk out and start the car. :|

 
By law they have a legal obligation to fix it free of charge if it was done by a business.
That is true up until the point that the customer digs around the install. a lot of shops will void the warranty right then and there if they know you were into their install.

 
whats the year make model, and which bypass module did they use. There are some vehicles that you push and hold the lock button and it pops your trunk, dont know if it applies to your vehicle but perhaps. If they used and Idatalink module there are programmable options for that.

Military splice and ok but any shop worth a **** will solder the connection.

 
Well, they got the problem corrected. The issue was that my factory alarm has a "factory disarm with unlock" wire and a "factory disarm without unlock" wire. They tapped into the "with unlock" wire because apparently it's much easier to access. The "without unlock" wire is inside the driver door, which meant they had to run a wire into the door.

The guy that helped me yesterday was very cool about it all, but when I went in today, one of the installers was expressing himself verbally as to not being happy about having to run a wire into the door and how it's a lot of work. He basically said they always do cars like mine with the unlock wire, hinting that that's the way it is and I shouldn't complain. I suppose I'll never know if the shop knew the proper way to do it from the get-go and just didn't initially want to, or if they found out after some research and one installer simply was having a bad day. But in any case, it does work properly now.

I guess this is common sense, but it's true that no one will ever care about my car as much as me. While it would have been a bit of a learning curve trying to install a system like this myself, and I may have needed to find a couple days where I was sure I wouldn't need my car, it probably would have been better to go that route or just not endeavor to put a remote start on the car at all.

 
That is true up until the point that the customer digs around the install. a lot of shops will void the warranty right then and there if they know you were into their install.
And this is making me wonder if I should go back and solder that trunk release wire. If I had to take it back to them, I don't want them to think I've screwed with their install and messed something up. All I did initially was inspect a few things, nothing truly invasive.

Military splice and ok but any shop worth a **** will solder the connection.
Unfortunately, it wasn't even a military splice. They just wrapped the wire and taped it. I did military splice it myself before I retaped it--just not sure if I should solder it.

 
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