To those that are ACTIVE or want to or plan to

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

I would do some EQ work first, T/A last for final touches.
Anywho, I originally went active because I had an older set of Type X comps, blew the tweeters but wanted to keep the mids. I knew using different tweeters on the X crossover was a no no, so I went active.

That was my original plan, but that eventually evolved into a head unit with the ability to do a 2-way front + sub, which eventually turned into a 3-way front + sub.

Now, my goal is a better stage. Width that can extend beyond the a-pillars, and depth that has me thinking I've got a band on my hood.

It takes a lot of trial and error to achieve this. Between proper installation, and knowing where to adjust your tuning, it's a lot of work, but the end result is worth it. Even when it takes a good month or two before everything is finalized, I enjoy the end result.

cool. I like how you set more goals after one is reached, kinda.

I'd like to know why you'd EQ before T/A.

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

now that you're utilizing the built-in 3way xover, it's time to utilize the independent preout level adjustments, and the 6 channel time correction/time alignment feature if you haven't already. In that order. Last would be EQ. 16 bands... nice unit.

I attempted to mess with the T/A one time. Had no idea what I was doing. I just hooked the mic up and let it do the noise through the speakers thing. I didn't know what to do after that. I still have a lot more to work on before I consider it like I want. My doors aren't deadened yet either.

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

cool. I like how you set more goals after one is reached, kinda.
I'd like to know why you'd EQ before T/A.

If you have an EQ capable enough, you can get a pretty well centered image by adjusting the given frequencies, that is of course if you can do independent L/R adjustment.

In my situation, if I running a 2-way with mids in doors. The driver side mid is probably 90* off axis, compared to the passenger which is probably 30* tops. Upper end detail tends to fall off pretty quickly when off axis, if I can adjust the driver side, so my ears think it isn't off axis, you should take away some of that side bias that is present when mids are installed in doors.

Kinda what Fox did with his EQ. Play sine waves, and adjust the right and left EQ so they are balanced, usually ends up with good results.

After that, T/A can be used for some final touches. I've noticed that doing T/A on tweeters playing 5khz on up, does nearly nothing at least in my situation. I'd say adjusting the EQ for those upper ranges is going to have a larger effect. This is of course speculation, but I feel it to be accurate for my install anyway.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

If you have an EQ capable enough, you can get a pretty well centered image by adjusting the given frequencies, that is of course if you can do independent L/R adjustment.
Yes

In my situation, if I running a 2-way with mids in doors. The driver side mid is probably 90* off axis, compared to the passenger which is probably 30* tops. Upper end detail tends to fall off pretty quickly when off axis, if I can adjust the driver side, so my ears think it isn't off axis, you should take away some of that side bias that is present when mids are installed in doors.

Sounds like you would have to boost the left mid... boosting = no no

Kinda what Fox did with his EQ. Play sine waves, and adjust the right and left EQ so they are balanced, usually ends up with good results.

Yes, Test tones.

After that, T/A can be used for some final touches. I've noticed that doing T/A on tweeters playing 5khz on up, does nearly nothing at least in my situation. I'd say adjusting the EQ for those upper ranges is going to have a larger effect. This is of course speculation, but I feel it to be accurate for my install anyway.

T/A is a form of phase adjustment. Changes in Phase can and will affect frequency response of the system. So why do EQ work and then ruin it? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

^^^what he said.

go green. global warming.

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

I would think a capable EQ could also CUT the given frequency, unless your EQ consists of the 18DB @45hz boost on super loud SQz amps.

Wouldn't know unless you try it, hmm? I haven't done this yet, still waiting to install pretty much everything, but I will definitely give it a go when I'm ready.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

I would think a capable EQ could also CUT the given frequency, unless your EQ consists of the 18DB @45hz boost on super loud SQz amps.
Wouldn't know unless you try it, hmm? I haven't done this yet, still waiting to install pretty much everything, but I will definitely give it a go when I'm ready.

we're going off topic, but who cares.

yes you cut frequencies, which is recommeneded. The reason is because dips or valleys may be caused by cancellations which can't be fixed w/ an EQ.

In the case you mentioned, cutting the right mid in the door to match the early top end roll off of the left wouldn't be ideal... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

we're going off topic, but who cares.
yes you cut frequencies, which is recommeneded. The reason is because dips or valleys may be caused by cancellations which can't be fixed w/ an EQ.

In the case you mentioned, cutting the right mid in the door to match the early top end roll off of the left wouldn't be ideal... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

Says who? I'm personally building this for my self, no comps. This isn't a set it and forget it type deal, no Ronco here, trial and error is key. Nothing is set in stone, if it doesn't work try something else.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

Says who? I'm personally building this for my self, no comps. This isn't a set it and forget it type deal, no Ronco here, trial and error is key. Nothing is set in stone, if it doesn't work try something else.

shit, i wish it was just set it and forget it, like that rotisserie oven. if it was, I wouldn't have had all those little tuning sessions in traffic on the way home from work //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

I do think I got it to the point when I'm just driving and enjoying the music. The only thing i've been tuning lately is the volume //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

on that note: it's time to drive home in traffic

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

I concur sir. When I play that CD I've listened to forever, for the first time in a well tuned stereo, it still brings a smile to my face. That's what I'm in it for.

 

[ronny.brite]

I used to be active, active duty that is. Then I retired. Now I'm not so active.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

I used to be active, active duty that is. Then I retired. Now I'm not so active.

Thank you for serving your country

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Keep in mind some competitors have used pairs of ambient super tweets up top in the A pillar in addition to their "main" tweets in the kicks just to play the upper harmonics above where most tweets naturally die off (maybe 12.5-15k). That subtitly can really do a lot in the frequencies where are ears are most sensitive to intensity differences.

This is why I use EQ before T/A on my tweeters. Depending on who you ask, it's intensity the provides localization above 2khz. Below, it's time arrival...which is why one can get away with MB's in the rear quarters, back doors, floor, etc. [think RC's Grand National].

I've noticed that doing T/A on tweeters playing 5khz on up, does nearly nothing at least in my situation. I'd say adjusting the EQ for those upper ranges is going to have a larger effect. This is of course speculation, but I feel it to be accurate for my install anyway.

Exactly. Try flipping R/L phase and see what happens. On mine it does very little as well. I think it's because phase doesn't alter intensity.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

Then I guess it would depend on the setup and where you xover your tweeets. My tweets are crossed at 2.5khz but still play below 2khz.

Another reason why I'd still t/a before EQing is because I'd rather just rta one after everything is done. Pink noise drives me nutts.

Though 2khz+ is more affect by amplitutde, I still might as well do what I can with t/a for the tweets while I t/a everything else under 2khz...before EQing.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Then I guess it would depend on the setup and where you xover your tweeets. My tweets are crossed at 2.5khz but still play below 2khz.
Another reason why I'd still t/a before EQing is because I'd rather just rta one after everything is done. Pink noise drives me nutts.

Though 2khz+ is more affect by amplitutde, I still might as well do what I can with t/a for the tweets while I t/a everything else under 2khz...before EQing.

Doesn't that have to do with the db per octave on the crossover?

 

[anj46907 10+ year member]

I was thinking of going active for a healthier lifestyle. I plan on eating right, lifting weights, running, and biking when I go active.

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